The rheostat changes the temp by changing the supplied power to the device. (Think of a lamp dimmer). So you need to adjust it seasonally.
There are two types of thermostats: on/off and proportional. The on/off type turns the power supply to the UTH off when it reaches the temp you set. However, the device may still continue to heat up a bit. The on/off type has a wider temp range- I'd say about 3-5 degrees higher and lower than what you set. Which isn't a bad thing for a cornsnake, as long as you know what the max temp it reaches is, by measuring it with a probed thermometer right on top of the glass over the heat matt.
A proportional thermostat allows you to digitally choose a temp, and then it supplies more power to the UTH as it is heating up, and less power as it reaches the set point, reducing the amount the UTH goes over the set temp to as little as .5F. So if you are picky and just want the temp to stay where you set it and not bounce all over the place you may be happier with a proportional thermostat, which is going to start at about $100.
It took me about a year or more to get to the stage that I just wanted the temps to be what I set. I started out with Flukers thermometers that I just set on the heat mat and checked periodically. Then I got Big Apple Herp probed thermometers, which I mounted on the wall in plain sight so I always knew what the temp was and got to see how much it varied. Then I gradually switched everyone over to proportional thermostats.
Some highly respected breeders do not recommend using a thermostat at all and (paraphrasing) say that a deep (3-4") layer of aspen will allow the snake to find the proper temp without burning itself. They may be in the minority, but it works for them and I am not one to say a huge cornsnake breeder is wrong. I'm just more comfortable with a thermostat and a UTH that is not reaching 120F.