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Beardie questions

mdrews

New member
We where at the reptile shop where we got simon from and every time we visit we have to resist the urge to bring home one of the baby bearded dragons they have.I really want another snake but I would like something the whole family will handle (esp. my wife)lol I just wanted some houseing requirments and feeding costs. I don't want to make an uneducated impulse buy...I'd rather my impulse be educated!!:)
 
A bearded dragon would be the WORST animal to make an impulse buy on. First, you need very particular, expensive lighting. Then you need a LARGE enclosure, a 40 breeder being the absolute minimum, a 4 x 2 being preferred. Then you have to be prepared to feed a diet of a _ton_ of live insects during its childhood, and then a very particular diet of greens (Spring Mix just won't do) for the adulthood. Plus follow a supplementation schedule. Plus be prepared for at least annual vet visits for deworming and coccidiosis treatment. $200, roughly, for a visit and course of treatment. Just buy some books and see if maybe you want an easier lizard. That being said, I dearly love my dragon, Isabel.
 
WOW!Did not expect all that!!:)I was hoping you would reply to this thread Nanci, thank you...I have seen your lovely beardies pics a few times before.My sister in-law and her husband have one that they keep in a 30-40gal. with minimal lighting and "whenever" feedings!!!I knew this was very wrong, but I didn't know how in depth their care taking was.Thanks again and which medium to large lizard would you recomend?)
 
Leopard and crested geckos are easily handled by most people... you might look into those. Their care requirements are a little less stringent.
 
It's not impossible. But if you want your dragon to thrive, you need a 105ish basking spot, and a source of UVB light. Ok, the ONLY recommended UVB is the Reptisun 10.0. $24. You need to change it out every 4 months or so, because even though you can't see it, the light is decaying and providing less and less UVB. Or you can buy a much more expensive MVB (mercury vapor) light, which would act as the basking bulb, but they are in the $60 range, and have to be replaced just as frequently. (You _can_ buy a UVB meter for about $160 and then replace your bulbs when necessary, without guessing). Then, if you go with my method of a fluorescent UVB, you need a 100 watt basking bulb, or whatever wattage at the height you mount it gives you the proper basking temp. Not so expensive, $8 each, replace when it burns out. Then you need a ceramic heater to maintain a not-so-cold night time temp of 70-80, if your house cools down into the 60's like mine does. The viv itself needs to be large in part because you want to have a temp range from 105F to 80ish, which is difficult in a smaller viv. Isabel is not so active, but when she gets running around in her 40 breeder, it seems small...Luckily, mostly all she does is bask in one area or another. The cost to your animal of inadequate UVB is metabolic bone disease.

Then there's the food. Crickets are easy, but carry worms. After deworming Isabel once, she was switched onto silkworms and superworms, which do not carry parasites. I know this because aside from the literature about it, she has not been reinfested with hooks, etc. after stopping eating crickets. When I took her to the vet shortly after purchasing her, when she stopped eating, she was found to have three kinds of worms and two kinds of coccidia! Silkworms are nice, but a little expensive if you buy them at a ready-to-eat size, and they require once or twice daily care, too! Supers are easy. But dragons LOVE silks. So guess what Isabel gets. Oh, yeah. There is no guarantee your dragon will EVER change over to a veg diet. Isable didn't, and I tried starving her out, though I wouldn't go over a week. I suppose when I get the uro, I will offer her greens again, since I will be preparing them anyway, but I don't expect her to eat them. Back to parasites. Dragons carry coccidia. You can't completely eliminate them, and some say you ought not, anyway, but when they are present in large numbers, as determined by counting them in a fecal, they need to be treated. So this is daily medication for a week, off a week, on a week, wait two weeks, follow up fecal, then usually another course of the same treatment, then another fecal, and then you're probably good for a year. AND THEN there is adenovirus. Read up on it. Virtually all bearded dragons carry it. Some die from it. I didn't know there was a prevalent disease like this, or I may not have even bought a dragon! It is quite difficult to find a baby that comes from parents who aren't carriers. So, do you test for it? I chose to, in case Isabel had health issues down the line, I wanted to know her status. So that meant sending off for a kit from University of Illinois, taking a fecal sample and preparing it with this special kit, sending it in for testing with the electron microscope, and getting the results that, yes, of course she is positive. "Occasional adeno-like virus seen." $75.

Here is an excellent food chart: http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Nutrition.html

So, if you're prepared to provide all that and care for a dragon in an optimal manner, not just keep it alive, by all means, get one! Isabel has as much personality as any cat or dog. She is one of my favorite animals that I've kept in my entire life, and there have been hundreds!!!
 
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Again, I'm am SOOO glad you've responded to my thread Nanci! Not many people would know this information and I know the reptile shop, as good as they are would never inform ANYONE of all this. After all they're in it to make a buck first, and animal care is always second!How about a Geko or some one mention a Uromastyx, I don't think room will be a problem for me but if the feeding bill is as high as one of my three (human) kids lol , I might have to re-think this:)
 
A uro will have the same lighting requirements, but will optimally need an even larger cage, 4x2, because you'll need to provide a temp range from 120F to 80F. The diet is much simpler.

What about a blue-tongue skink???

Now if I was going to get a gecko, I'd go for a gargoyle, because then you are free of insects! I really like those, and am plotting one sometime in the future. I like cresties, too, but I don't want to deal with the tail breaking off and then having a frog-butt.
 
I vote for crested geckos or chahouas which are larger than cresteds but more docile in nature and easy to care for. They eat crested gecko diet which is cheap and has everything they need, you don't have to feed insects though they do enjoy the hunt, and there temp requirements are the same as yours meaning average room temps are perfect!! I think they make great beginner lizards and even my hubby who isn't a reptile enthusiast loves my chewies. Chahouas also have personality for sure, will come out to see you, bask in the open making great display animals, and enjoy being handled.
 
Chahouas also don't loose their tails and honestly in 7 years only one crested has become a frog butt thanks to her clutchmate hannibal, lol!! Gargs are also cool, but vary in their liking to being handled, can be cannabalistic to cagemates, and a few ae just down right nasty.
 
Sorry for the triple post but thought you may want to see a chahoua so here is Lucy who may be gravid...fingers crossed that is

dcarter-albums-my-geckos-picture1105-dsc-0003.jpg
 
Lucy there is full grown and about 10 inches long snout to tip of tail. For one adult a cage measuring 18x18x24 is optimal because they are arboreal and require height more than width and length though they do sometimes like to sleep in their fake tree stump hides. They need sturdy branches for climbing as well as at least one hide on the ground, water bowl, and food bowl super easy and cheap. You can buy CGD in bulk and for one chewie a 1/2 pound is all you would need a year. I get fake vines and use outdoor sticks I soak in bleach water, bake, and coat with polycrylite (sp) to sanitize and water proof them which means they literally last forever. I mist mine twice a day and they live in huge breeder tubs I get at home depot for $7.00. Really best pet I have by far and they aren't skiddish with the kids as some of my cresties are!!!
 
Thanks for the cool ideas guys.It's funny you should mention blue tounge skink Nanci, I just finished reading the same suggestion on another board!!:) Googled a pic and so far they LOOK pretty cool but I'm going to have to try to dig up some info on them.:)
 
This is the only other pic I have, but you can see their faces a little better. If you want an almost idiot proof lizard these are them for sure. Mine follow me around the room and beg to be handled.

dcarter-albums-my-geckos-picture798-dsc-0016.jpg
 
Back to beardies, the keys seem to be keep them HOT, UVB, and correct diet. I have about twenty at the moment and they are more work than 100+ snakes, easily. I'm a big fan of mercury vapor bulbs (prefer Mega-Ray, those IME they do blow up WAY too frequently), and keep my basking spots upward of 120. As long as they can get out of it, they will really thrive. Also, mustard greens, squash, and mealworm salads are a decent staple in these winter months.
 
I had guests today, snake people, and the wife especially kept marveling over how responsive Isabel was, compared to a snake. She was fatty, flatty yellow perfection! They wanted to know if I had a temp gun,and how warm she was, so I shot her, and she was 100F.
 
I had guests today, snake people, and the wife especially kept marveling over how responsive Isabel was, compared to a snake. She was fatty, flatty yellow perfection! They wanted to know if I had a temp gun,and how warm she was, so I shot her, and she was 100F.

That's kinda what I like about them, they seem to have that "doggy" kind of attitude in a dinosaur body!:)
 
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