New snake owner, need assistance!

[Agonistes]

One day I just happen to spot this little guy at my local pet store and I thought that he was the cutest thing I had ever seen in a long while. So, I went home and that night I researched for hours about corn snakes and how "easy" they were to care for. Well, the next day I went out and bought my corn snake, an albino (pictures below). So, I thought I had everything figured out about these little guys, but I was sorely incorrect. After a life-long cat owner, I believed I could take care of any pet, but this snake has proven to be an interesting turn in my "pet" life. I have a few questions that I believe, might, be health related-or so I think they are.

1. My snake likes to crawl up in the small "ledge" besides the top of the cage, and the cage wall. He frequently falls down, and I'm worried about him getting hurt. Is it okay for him to do this? Pic : Ninja Snake//img710.imageshack.us/img710/8585/dscn0437n.jpg (http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/8585/dscn0437n.jpg)

2. This question everyone asks, my snake will not eat thawed pinkies. I separated him in a container all his own, I actually bought a small travel container just for this, and even tried cutting open the pinkie's stomach. He still just seemed interested in trying to play ninja and escape his surroundings.

3. I don't know how hardy snakes are, I mean, I don't know how firm or soft to hold him, because if I don't hold firm enough he sort of "falls" and if I'm holding him too firm I feel like I'm hurting the poor baby!

4. On his feeding chart that the pet store gave us it indicated that they have tried to feed him for a month, and in that month he hasn't ate at all. I don't know if this is a typo on their end, or the snake actually hasn't eaten in a month.

Thanks for all your assistance!
Pics :
Axel 1//img7.imageshack.us/img7/1152/snakeaxel.jpg (http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/1152/snakeaxel.jpg)
Axel 2//img37.imageshack.us/img37/8611/snakeaxel2.jpg (http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/8611/snakeaxel2.jpg)

[bkelm18]

1. He'll be ok, most snakes do that. They'll grow out of it eventually.
2. Are you leaving him in the container with the mouse overnight? Mine wouldn't eat at first so I left him in there overnight with a towel over it. He's never missed a meal since. There are other methods but try that.
3. Corns are very hardy. Hold him firmly, let him slither through your fingers. At first you may want to hold him over the cage in case he falls just until you get a better feel for it.
4. Unfortunately, some hatchlings turn out to be non-eaters. Sometimes you can get them going and sometimes you can't. I'm sure someone will come along with some good advice on how to get it going.

[bkelm18]

Ok, forgot to ask the usual questions: What are your temps? What are you using for heat? How are you regulating it? Does your cage have enough hides?

[Agonistes]

Well, I'm going today to get a temperature gauge, because right now all I have is a heat lamp sitting on the cage-grill at the top. I turn it on when I wake up and turn it off when I go to sleep. And if you looked at the pictures all I have is that log, I'm considering going today to get him a small tree to climb in/on.

[ArpeggioAngel]

You are better off getting a UTH (under tank heater) and regulate it vs. a heat lamp. Snakes need belly heat to digest their meals.

With the thawed pinky - leaving him overnight with it would be the first thing I would try. If that doesn't work - try the "zombie mouse dance". Using a pair of tongs or hemostats - drag the pinky around in front of him or dangle it in front of him - causing it to move some. Sometimes that will get them thinking it is "alive" and they will attack and eat it.

[Porro]

Well, I'm going today to get a temperature gauge, because right now all I have is a heat lamp sitting on the cage-grill at the top. I turn it on when I wake up and turn it off when I go to sleep. And if you looked at the pictures all I have is that log, I'm considering going today to get him a small tree to climb in/on.

He need more hides, at least one on the cold side and one on the warm side. But, the more the marrier. The more hides he has, the more secure he will feel. The more secure he feels in his environment, the more likely he will be to eat. If he is too stressed out over anything (incorrect temps, not enough places to hide) he will most likely not eat.

Also, your source of heat is not the ideal type. The ideal type would be an Under Tank Heater (UTH) regulated by a thermostat, and if not a thermostat then a dimmer switch of some type.

A heat lamp will supply some type of heat which aides in digestion but the ideal type of heat a corn snaked needs is belly heat (which is what a UTH supplies).

Also, with just the heat lamp, there is no way or regulating how hot/cold it gets in the tank (without literally sitting there turning it on and off throughout the day/night...). A thermostat could work with your heat lamp but, again, it would not be the ideal type of heat to supply to your corn.

Also, as suggested above, is this "small travel container" transparent? If so, the snake will most likely be more concerned with escaping than it will with eating while it is in this container. If you can cover it (small air holes in the top) with a dark t-shirt or pillow case so that he cannot see out and leave him with the slitted/brained pinky for about an hour, you might have more success.

Oh, and one more thing, I almost forgot..........How long are you waiting inbetween trying to feed him? If you are trying to feed him more frequently than every 5 days stop doing so. You might be doing more harm than good by stressing him out.

Attempt a feed and if it doesn't work, leave him completely alone for 5 days then try again. Snakes are survivors and unless your snake is losing weight (do you have a digital scale yet?), you should be fine with doing this.

Good luck and keep us posted!

[Agonistes]

Thanks for all the assistance! I didn't purchase a UTH because the employee at the pet store advised me not too because of burning. I might go out later and buy a small UTH to place under the hot side of his tank. A question about UTH's though, I have about an inch, more-or-less, of aspen bedding, will the UTH heat enough for the snake to still get the temperature he needs through the aspen?

[RosieReal]

An under tank heater is the way to go, although they ALL get too hot for a cornsnake. What you will need, is a way to regulate the heat produced. A simple lamp dimmer such as this one which is 15$ at my local home depot will work perfectly. http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/e6/e6020453-0cf4-4ead-b4ba-477e4a9fbac4_400.jpg

[RosieReal]

sorry, wasnt done...lol

you plug the dimmer into the wall, and the UTH into the dimmer. Then, you make sure you have a thermometer probe place directly over the center of the heat mat. This thermometer is 7$ at my local walmart. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51jORJEeFqL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

You can use silicone, or just make sure the probe doesnt move (put a hide or a rock over it to hold it still) so that you will know how hot the hottest part of the tank will be. The hottest part of the tank is the bare glass right above the center of the UTH, so thats where the probe goes. Dont use tape, the heat makes it constantly sticky, and the snake WILL get stuck, i dont know how but they always do.

Make sure you've waited a week before trying to feed your new snake. It takes DAYS for them to calm down from a move like that one. If this one is a non feeder, I think personally you should take it back and get a different one...a non feeder is a hard snake for your first one. If you wish to try to get it to feed, heat up the pink in hot tap water and offer it to your snake once its been heated. If that doenst work, cut open the HEAD and make several slits along the back, and leave it in the feeding containor (in the tank for safty) overnight with the pink...keep the noise around the tank down, and make sure its dark...this is how small ones feel safe.

Get a few more hides...pieces of cardboard box, margerine containors with holes in them, toilet paper tubes are a BIG favorite for small snakes...this should help him feel safer too.

These things should help make your experiance a little easier...tis all about getting the set up right. Once that happens, it is easy to care for snakes. I promise.

[RosieReal]

about the aspen question: Yes, he will get the heat he needs. many snakes burrow under aspen anyway...but dont worry. He will get the heat he needs, and the aspen will not prevent that...the whole tank doesn't need to be warm, just the hot side. the rest of the tank should be fine at room temp as long as its not really cold. Corns come from an environment that fluctuates pretty greatly on its own, so make sure they have access to water, heat and cold...they will do the rest. :)

[RosieReal]

one last thing...i'd nix the light. its a fire hazard, can dry out the tank(could cause bad sheds later on), and the snake doesnt need that kind of light/heat. maybe keep it for if you get a bearded dragon? :P

[Agonistes]

I'm going to go purchase a small UTH. Although my corn snake right now is in a small 5.5 gallon tank, because he's a just a baby I thought it was more appropriate. I'm going to make the right side the "hot" side, but in the middle of that side is a log that he likes to hide in, should I place the probe/thermometer inside the log to get the ideal temperature?

[bkelm18]

I'm going to go purchase a small UTH. Although my corn snake right now is in a small 5.5 gallon tank, because he's a just a baby I thought it was more appropriate. I'm going to make the right side the "hot" side, but in the middle of that side is a log that he likes to hide in, should I place the probe/thermometer inside the log to get the ideal temperature?

You need to put the probe at the spot where the snake can get closest to the UTH. Since the UTH goes on the bottom on the outside, the probe should go inside the tank, on the glass directly above the UTH, preferably in the center of the area covered by the UTH. Secure it into place with some silicone or hot glue. 85F is about the ideal temp.

[Agonistes]

I'm not sure if you guys are wanting me to permanently secure a thermostat to the bottom of the tank or just use a thermometer probe to find the hottest temperature. I just ran to Wal-mart and grabbed one of those fish thermostats you stick to the side of your tank. I stuck it near the top of the aspen. I couldn't find anything else to gauge temperature and when I asks them about thermostats they seemed to have no clue what I was talking about.

[bkelm18]

I'm not sure if you guys are wanting me to permanently secure a thermostat to the bottom of the tank or just use a thermometer probe to find the hottest temperature. I just ran to Wal-mart and grabbed one of those fish thermostats you stick to the side of your tank. I stuck it near the top of the aspen. I couldn't find anything else to gauge temperature and when I asks them about thermostats they seemed to have no clue what I was talking about.

Those stick on thermometers are useless. They aren't accurate. The thermometers we're talking about have a separate probe, like these:
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/digitalgiftstore_2105_130081573
They can usually be found near the hardware or gardening section in Walmart. Lowes or Home Depot carry them too. As far as thermostats, they can get expensive and you need one made for UTH's. You'll find those online. A cheaper alternative to control your UTH is a lamp dimmer like this:
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/e6/e6020453-0cf4-4ead-b4ba-477e4a9fbac4_400.jpg
You can find those at Home Depot or Lowe's for about $10. You need either a thermostat or a dimmer to control the UTH or else it will burn your snake.

[Agonistes]

Yeah the stick-on thermometer isn't reading anything. I'm going to go out in a bit and get a probe one from Home Depot. Thanks for all the assistance! I will keep everyone updated. :)

[Agonistes]

I bought one of those thermometers that was pictured above, the plastic-looking probe. His favorite hiding spot read 85 degrees on a the dot. Is this too hot for him?

[bkelm18]

I bought one of those thermometers that was pictured above, the plastic-looking probe. His favorite hiding spot read 85 degrees on a the dot. Is this too hot for him?

Nope, 85F above the UTH on the glass is perfect.

[wade]

85* is fine. Go back up a few posts. Don't you think Rosie is cute? I just love her to death.

[ShenziSixaxis]

1. My snake likes to crawl up in the small "ledge" besides the top of the cage, and the cage wall. He frequently falls down, and I'm worried about him getting hurt. Is it okay for him to do this? Pic : Ninja Snake//img710.imageshack.us/img710/8585/dscn0437n.jpg (http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/8585/dscn0437n.jpg)

2. This question everyone asks, my snake will not eat thawed pinkies. I separated him in a container all his own, I actually bought a small travel container just for this, and even tried cutting open the pinkie's stomach. He still just seemed interested in trying to play ninja and escape his surroundings.

3. I don't know how hardy snakes are, I mean, I don't know how firm or soft to hold him, because if I don't hold firm enough he sort of "falls" and if I'm holding him too firm I feel like I'm hurting the poor baby!

4. On his feeding chart that the pet store gave us it indicated that they have tried to feed him for a month, and in that month he hasn't ate at all. I don't know if this is a typo on their end, or the snake actually hasn't eaten in a month.

Thanks for all your assistance!
Pics :
Axel 1//img7.imageshack.us/img7/1152/snakeaxel.jpg (http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/1152/snakeaxel.jpg)
Axel 2//img37.imageshack.us/img37/8611/snakeaxel2.jpg (http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/8611/snakeaxel2.jpg)

1. My normal does it ALL the time. They eventually grow out of it (literally), but I put mine in a plastic tub because she did it all night and kept me awake. If it's a real bother, you can put something (silicone?) in the crevice to keep him out of it.
Also, try buying something (wooden stick or not) that your corn can climb on and put it in the viv.


2. Try making it HOT. Thaw it in water that is almost hot enough to boil, put the pink in a bag, and let it sit in the water for half an hour. My okeetee loves eating his hoppers with deep slits, and when it is hot.
Also, if that doesn't work, put the corn in with the pink over night. If that doesn't work, try scenting the pink with used bedding from a mouse, rat, anole, or frog/toad enclosure. Pet stores will give some to you if you ask, even if they do give you a weird look. Some people also scent with tuna juice. You can try just about anything: raw chicken, red meat, pork, anything that's meat based.
Remember to not offer food too often; 3 or 4 days at most. Some people also go by the rule of "the corn either eats on it's scheduled feeding day or not". I would offer every 3 days though. Some people also recommend to not handle the corn until it eats a few meals consistantly, but I have found that it makes no difference between my two corns.

3. Meh, sit on a bed or couch. Then just let him cruise around you and on your body. He'll slow down after a bit, and as he gets older.

4. I will say that was a big mistake on your part. I haven't, and don't plan to buy any type of snake that hasn't eaten for the store that has had it. Also, some young corns will just never eat. It's described as nature intending some corns for food for other animals.

I'm going to go purchase a small UTH. Although my corn snake right now is in a small 5.5 gallon tank, because he's a just a baby I thought it was more appropriate. I'm going to make the right side the "hot" side, but in the middle of that side is a log that he likes to hide in, should I place the probe/thermometer inside the log to get the ideal temperature?

Too small unless it is a pip, a corn that has just hatched. A 20 gallon long tank will last him his whole life. I would recommend buying one and moving him into it. You would have to put lots of aspen in the bottom, get many hides (perferably ones that the corn can feel secure in, ones that are small, but big enough to hold the snake in it completely), and perhaps some plastic plants.
Also, even if your corn adjusts well to the viv, keep multiple hides in there. You can gradually take out the fake plants if you feel your corn does not need them, but multiple hides make it interesting to search for your corn to get him out of the viv. I also find that my corns cruise their vivs more at their active time (usually night; my okeetee is active moreso in the evening and morning when the sun is bright).


Also, I read that your corn has a favorite hide. My normal had a piece of cork bark she loved. However, no matter where I put it (cool side, hot side, middle), she would not leave it. If your corn does that, with a full belly and without, I recommend taking it out (as long as he has other hides).


Also, while 'albino' is an okay term, your corn is an amel, short for amelistic. And he is a very pretty one at that. :D






/giant post of dooooom

[RosieReal]

I bought one of those thermometers that was pictured above, the plastic-looking probe. His favorite hiding spot read 85 degrees on a the dot. Is this too hot for him?

Is his favorite hiding spot right over the heat mat?the most important question with the heat mat is: what is the temperature ON the glass UNDER the aspen in the CENTER of the UTH? This is the potential harmful spot the employee who warned you off a uth to begin with was talking about. With a dimmer and properly monitored, UTH is the best source of heat for your snake. Just have to get it set up properly...and once you've got the first one, the rest are easy! lol

So, in short. Clear away aspen above the uth, roughly in the middle. On this space of clear glass, affix the thermometer probe to the glass above the UTH. Thats the spot you want to keep control of.

[RosieReal]

PS
Loves you too Wade-y Pants. Thanks for noticing. ;)

[Agonistes]

Is his favorite hiding spot right over the heat mat?the most important question with the heat mat is: what is the temperature ON the glass UNDER the aspen in the CENTER of the UTH? This is the potential harmful spot the employee who warned you off a uth to begin with was talking about. With a dimmer and properly monitored, UTH is the best source of heat for your snake. Just have to get it set up properly...and once you've got the first one, the rest are easy! lol

So, in short. Clear away aspen above the uth, roughly in the middle. On this space of clear glass, affix the thermometer probe to the glass above the UTH. Thats the spot you want to keep control of.

I have not been able to purchase a UTH yet, the nearest pet store is an hour from me and I'm not sure the next time I will make the trip over there. I will probably get one sometime next week.

[Agonistes]

Leaving Axel overnight in the mini-tank next to a room temperature pinkie, going to find out of he eats it.

[Sweetseraph]

Too small unless it is a pip, a corn that has just hatched. A 20 gallon long tank will last him his whole life. I would recommend buying one and moving him into it.

Re: 5.5 gal tank. It's perfectly fine for now. Looking at the pic of him, he is only barely longer than the short side of the tank, so the tank is fine. It's true that a 20 long will last him his life, but since he's currently a non-feeder, I wouldn't stress him by a) moving him & b) putting him in a large tank.

Regarding the non-feeding, it might be wise to check the return policy and strongly consider returning him if you can't get him to eat within the period of the policy. Does his feeding record say he has ever eaten?

[Agonistes]

Re: 5.5 gal tank. It's perfectly fine for now. Looking at the pic of him, he is only barely longer than the short side of the tank, so the tank is fine. It's true that a 20 long will last him his life, but since he's currently a non-feeder, I wouldn't stress him by a) moving him & b) putting him in a large tank.

Regarding the non-feeding, it might be wise to check the return policy and strongly consider returning him if you can't get him to eat within the period of the policy. Does his feeding record say he has ever eaten?

Well that's what I'm unsure about, they said he has eaten before. But the legend on the feeding chart says he hasn't, unless it was a type on their end. He didn't eat after putting him alone with a pinkie all night. The return policy is one week, and I believe I've had him longer than that.

[Sweetseraph]

Ok, well, then let's work with what we have!

So as far as you can figure, the pet store had him a month and you've had him a little over a week and he has not eaten at all in that whole time period (although the employee said he had eaten). Maybe you could phone the store to try and confirm one way or the other, but it doesn't matter too much unless you want to try pursuing the fact that you were verbally given incorrect information and maybe get a refund on that basis. It's possible he didn't eat there because of stress (incorrect temps, perhaps cohabbing, lots of people around, etc.).

We've established that a UTH would be best, but for now you've got the heat light. As long as you've taken the temp right where the snake would be, 85 is perfect, so that part is good. Make sure he has a place to hide in a cool area too (can be any small box or container, just big enough for him to fit; they like tight spaces).

Don't offer food more often than once every 3-5 days. As mentioned, try making the pinkie very warm and poking a hole in its head. You could try the paper bag trick, where you place snake and pinkie in a paper bag, staple it shut and place the bag in the cage (so that if he escapes the bag, it's all good!). If he hasn't eaten by the time you go to the pet store next week, you could try a live pinkie. There are other tricks (some have been mentioned, but lets start with the simple ones and then see if we need to go to more elaborate lengths.

Oh, and also don't handle him and try to keep disturbances to a minimum around the cage until he starts eating.

[Agonistes]

Axel has been acting unusual lately. For starters he very cold to the touch, I don't know if this is normal for cold-blooded animals or not, but I don't seem to recall him being cold. He's also not active at night anymore like he was when I first received him, he just sits in his hiding spot all day and night. I checked to see if he was about to shed, but it doesn't seem like that. Any suggestions?

[bkelm18]

Axel has been acting unusual lately. For starters he very cold to the touch, I don't know if this is normal for cold-blooded animals or not, but I don't seem to recall him being cold. He's also not active at night anymore like he was when I first received him, he just sits in his hiding spot all day and night. I checked to see if he was about to shed, but it doesn't seem like that. Any suggestions?


Well they are cold blooded, so they will feel cool to the touch. Has he shed before in your care? Usually mine go into hiding a few days before they actually go blue (skin goes opaque, eyes cloud over). They're in blue usually for about a week, then they clear up for a few days, then they actually shed. So there are points during this that they may not appear to be in the shedding process, but they are. I'd bet that he's getting ready to shed.

[Porro]

Axel has been acting unusual lately. For starters he very cold to the touch, I don't know if this is normal for cold-blooded animals or not, but I don't seem to recall him being cold. He's also not active at night anymore like he was when I first received him, he just sits in his hiding spot all day and night. I checked to see if he was about to shed, but it doesn't seem like that. Any suggestions?

My Charles is almost always cold to the touch when I get him (especially when he's hiding under the water bowl). The only time Axel shouldn't be cold is when has recently been under your heat lamp for digestion purposes, which is where we're trying to get him now....

[Agonistes]

Well that would explain why he's not eating. I will give him a few days alone and see what happens. Thanks!

[Agonistes]

I'm a bit worried about Axel, he has not been active for a week and when I looked at him last-which was hard since he hasn't come out of his hiding place since I posted last-he didn't seem like he was shedding, his eyes were of a normal hue and his skin looked dandy. Anybody have an idea why he would want to be so isolated all of a sudden? I stayed up one night until 4 AM to see if he would come out, but nothing.

[Sweetseraph]

With the colour of corn you have, it can be hard to tell when they are going to shed sometimes (their eyes go white instead of blue and the skin I don't know how to describe, but it definitely looks different on the red areas, but your snake has a lot of white), but keep in mind that they go into blue, then they clear up and look completely normal, then they shed.

When is he due to try to eat next? He might not be shedding; he may just want to chill for a bit. You can try bringing him out to eat if it's time for that and take that opportunity to check him out. Just keep it to a minimum. Or if you think he's stressed and don't want to disturb him, you could try feeding him in his viv by placing the pinkie on a little plate so the shavings don't stick to it.

[Agonistes]

Well Axel finally shed last week, so I decided to try and feed him yesterday. He still didn't eat, he still is only interested in escaping his surroundings... I don't know what to do. Suggestions?

[Sweetseraph]

Have you had a chance to get the undertank heater yet? Getting the temps right will help. When you offered food, how did you offer it?

[Agonistes]

No I have not had the time nor money to invest in it, although the digital thermometer I obtained for him reads a constant 83-85 degrees. I put Axel in a separate tank, covered the tank with a black cloth, and placed the pinkie in there with him. He seemed to be slightly interested at first, but then just ignored it and tried to escape. I left him overnight with it, but to no avail.

[Nanci]

I think you should try with a smaller feeding container- like the size of a margerine cup. You can punch a couple holes in the lid with a paper punch. The pink needs to be HOT, not room temp. Think 102F. You're running out of time to get this guy eating, though, and if he doesn't take a FT pink very soon, I think you should try live.

[Sweetseraph]

I agree with Nanci. Try a very small feeding container that he just fits in with a very hot mouse. And then try live.

[Agonistes]

Alright, I went and bought a UTH pad today. I'm going to go out and get a small gladware container and punch holes in it. Thanks for the help!

[Agonistes]

I left him overnight with the UTH and a small container, it seems like half of the pinkie was gone. I'm hoping he ate it, although I'm unsure. He doesn't have any lumps in him, can you tell any other way?

[Sweetseraph]

There's no way for him to have eaten only half the pinkie. He can't bite it in half, so it's all or nothing. If it looks like some is missing, he may have eaten it, then regurged it. Do you happen to have a picture of the pinkie?

[Agonistes]

No, I didn't. It looked blackened though, and when I tried cleaning it up the pinkie was stuck to the container.

[bkelm18]

When you say you left him overnight with the UTH and a small container, what exactly do you mean? Are you regulating the UTH? Is the snake enclosed in the small container so that it can't get out? If so and you left the container with the snake on top of the UTH overnight, it's possible it might have gotten too warm and since he couldn't move to thermo-regulate, he regurged the pinkie. Just my guess.

[Nanci]

If you're leaving him in a feeding container, do not leave it on heat. That is dangerous. Uneaten pinks can turn black within hours, especially if hot.

[WingedSweetheart]

Just my two cents. I agree. You shouldn't put the small container right on top of the uth. It would get too hot. It sounds like he may have eaten and then threw it up. So, maybe you are getting close. Try moving him closer to the cool side or in the middle of his enclosure and leave him a while with a pinkie.

[Agonistes]

Alright, the people at the pet store advised me to use the UTH and leave it overnight. My partner was the one who bought the UTH and it's terribly small for his tank, so we can only use it for the small container. So should I try putting the UTH in his normal tank and try feeding him like that? Or should I try a smaller container and not use a UTH at all? Also, I'm not regulating the temperature at all, it's a small 12x6 inch UTH and the snake person at the pet store told me I shouldn't have to regulate it since my apartment is a constant 70 degrees. When I measured the heat with the UTH on it's a steady 85-87 degrees. I'm feeding him in one of those carry containers you see crickets in a lot.
http://toddlerdaddy.files.wordpress.com/2007/07/cricket_frogs.jpg

That would be the same container I'm feeding him in, it was the container the pet store advised. Apparently they don't know much about snakes if they keep telling me incorrect procedures for feeding a snake.

[Sweetseraph]

The UTH is 12" x 6"? That's not tiny...it's huge! You want one that covers only about 1/3 of the tank and you only have a tiny tank, don't you? When you say it reads 85, how long after you turned it on did you take the reading? They can take the whole day to reach their maximum temperature. The purpose of regulating the temps isn't because of fluctuation; it's because it might go too high. Make sure to check the temp again after letting the UTH be plugged in at least a day.

You should feed in a separate container, but just don't place that separate container on any heat source. The feeding container is too small to allow him to escape the heat if he's too hot. Your feeding container doesn't have all that stuff in it, does it? It should be completely empty and bare when you feed him. Since he has probably regurged his meal, you will have to wait at least 8 days to try again.

[WingedSweetheart]

First of UTH stands for Under Tank Heater. You don't put it inside the tank. It has a sticky side that will stick to the bottom of one half of your tank. There are different sized UTH for different sized tanks. It should say on the package what size tank each size UTH should be used for. I have a 12x6 on my 40 gallon tank. The package for the 12x6 read that it was for a 40 - 60 gallon tank. The little UTH on my 10 gallon tank is only half the size of the one on the 40 gallon. So if you are using a 12x6 on a small tank then it is much too hot (not possible for a cool side). The smaller the tank the more hot air is going to build up in there from that big UTH.

Now if you actually do have a 40 gallon tank to use that 12x6 UTH on it is much much too big for just a little hatchling. They would be stressed and scared out of their wits. A baby would feel safest in a container like the one you posted that you feed yours in. I kept my hatchlings in one that looks exactly that except for mine has a blue lid. They lived in that tiny thing for a month before I moved them to a 10 gallon. They can live in a 10 gallon for a long time before you need to move up to at least a 20 gallon. If you feed your snake in that container then I wouldn't put it on the UTH at all if it is 70 degreese room temp.

[Agonistes]

I understand what UTH stands for, I'm not an imbecile. When I said "in" my tanks has a subsidized compartment for random things under the tank itself. The tank is only a 5 gallon tank, being that is used to house fish until my apartment told me it was a flood hazard. I just went to measure the heating pad and it's around 4" x 6". I'm going to wait a week and place a pinkie and him in a tupperware container with holes poked in the top. I also looked at my UTH and it does not have a sticky side.

[Sweetseraph]

You can use aluminum foil tape to attach it then. It can be found in the plumbing department of Home Depot or wherever.

[Taz Monkey]

When I first plugged my UTH in after I got it it rose to 113 degrees! A UTH needs to be regulated by something, be it a dimmer switch, or a thermostat. I have a thermostat that keeps the UTH at a constant temperature, despite the fact that the temps in my house fluctuate during the day and night. 113 degrees could absolutely cook a snake, especially one of such a small size, and very quickly. If I were you I would stop going to the pet store for advice and just go there to get the supplies. It seems to me that pet store employees have very little knowledge about the products they sell.

[Agonistes]

Axel passed away this morning. He never started to eat, so I'm assuming there was something wrong with him from the beginning -- when I contacted PetSmart the person in-charge of the snakes said that she believes that he never ate when they had him. I'm never buying a snake from PetSmart again, time to go look for a reptilian shop in Houston. Thanks everyone who has helped and assisted me, I am now that much smarter on corn snakes.

[WolfKin]

My deepest sympathy for your loss. I'll say a prayer for Axel. Hang tough Cat!

[WingedSweetheart]

Aw that really sucks. I'm so sorry your baby never ate for you. But I know some just never do start to eat and I guess it's just natures way.

But hope you don't give up and find a good breeder who has fed the babies a few times and had them shed before they sell them. There are out of egg specials but there is a chance of getting non eaters with that so not good for people just starting out.

Lucky you live in TX. I think there are a good bit of places and people to get snakes from there.

[army_greywolf]

The best thing you can do is order your snake from someone on here...or better yet a pair, in a good looking pattern you like because in almost all cases they will be proved as feeders before delivery and you have the chance to browse hundreds of listings to find what you like. My two cents, you get what you pay for as they say.

[wildlifephotographer]

Awww..I'm sorry to hear about Axel. Poor little guy. :(

I had a problem feeder back in Dec. 2008 around Christmas time I bought one from PetCo and after about 1 week and half I could deffinently see that something was wrong with it..I tried a few things, but when that didn't work I took it back to the store and told them about it and they didn't give me a refund but I did exchange the sickly one for Bindi who is my Amel corn that I have now and doing very well. Actually he's a very good eater. Coral the one that was sick, I never did find out if it survived but the person at Petco said they would take care of it and take it to the vet to see what was wrong with it. I don't know if they ever did that or not but I've always wondered about it.

Some advise for yr next search on a corn snake..and what kind of set up is needed. Generally you can keep a corn snake comfortably in a 10 gallon tank from hatchling-2yrs or so in age. Use a UTH for sure, it's the kind of heat they need to regulate their digestive system. Have two hides at least, one on the warm end and one on the cooler end and maybe a plant/branch in the middle or something else they could possibly hide in or under and a water bowl. Use something that keeps control/or watch on the temps on each side of the tank cool and warm, especially warm. It should be around 83-85 degrees on the warm side and around 72-75 on the cooler end. This is very important for corn snakes because that is how they digest their foods/ and prepare for shedding their skins and keep healthy basically. Every 4-6 days for hatchlings on the feeding and if you have problems try braining the pinkie mouse or just cutting it in half and feeding it half to the snake instead of a whole one if it regurges. One of my other ones that I had at the beginning when I first got her Zoe was hard to get to feed as well...and the thing that worked for me was braining the pinkie mouse and wingling it in front of her. It took 3 times before I finally got her to eat for me. She's a good eater now although she went off feed for over a month this year. Sometimes they do that when they get older. Anyhow, sorry for the long post. Hope you have better luck next time.