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Buying from LayneLabs; Large Fuzzies or Hoppers? & New Vet

Lycari
03-15-2012, 09:37 PM
So, the Munson Plan says:



When they're on single pinks (2-3g), I feed every 5-6 days. (Snake = 4-15g)
-Double pinks (3g x 2) every 5-6 days. (Snake = 16-23g)
-Small fuzzies (5-7g) every 6-7 days. (Snake = 24-30g)
-Regular fuzzies (7-9g) every 6-7 days (Snake = 30-50g)
-Hoppers (9-12g) every 6-7 days (Snake = 51-90g)
-Weaned (14-20g) every 7 days (Snake = 91-170g)
-Adult (20-30g) every 7-x days (Snake = 170+) See below.

I have bolded the two lines that are important here.

I only have two and a half feedings left of food, so I weighed Saga in preparation for ordering more food. She came in at 41g.

Layne Labs' large fuzzies weigh in at 5.1-7.5g; their hoppers are 7.6-9.9g.

The Munson Plan says to get her the hoppers, I figure. Thing is, she still hides for as long as three days after a meal of two of their medium/large pinkies, which are 2-4g. Because I don't feed when she's in shed, my package of 25 of those lasted way longer than I thought it would and I think she's past the point of eating the Layne Labs small fuzzies which are 4-5g. Still, I'm worried about offering her something that much bigger than usual.

So, which should I order? Large fuzzies? Hoppers? Order 10 small fuzzies (smallest possible order size) to step her up to the bigger meals?



On a sort-of related note, I took Saga for her first vet exam, today. The vet seemed fairly good, maybe a 3 or a 4 out of 5. She didn't tell me to give her a light/dark cycle or UVB or even a basking bulb, but then, she also said to increase the top heat to 90 degrees.... (My BAH thermostat only seems to be able to hold temperature within 7 degrees, at least with my second-hand UTH. It's currently bouncing between 80-87 degrees.)

When I told her that Saga's mother was wild-caught, the first thing she wanted to do was make sure that I could get a fecal sample so she could test for the various horrors of the snakey world. I'm hoping this is a good sign, especially since she persisted even after I told her I was pretty sure Mica (the mother) had been tested before (even if her owner hadn't expressly said so). She gave me a thing to collect one with, but I dunno if I'll find one any time soon. Heh.

She checked the head, tail, cloaca, mouth... everywhere I expected her to. She told me Saga was in excellent condition and that she thought my husbandry was very good, even if she felt temps were a little low.

I asked her what to do if Saga ever had a stuck shed, and she gave me much the same instructions as are in Nanci's What To Do pinned topic here. When I asked her about moving up feed size, however, she told me to stick with pinkies and just feed more of them or more often until she gets bigger. I mentioned the "1.5x the snake's body" rule, and she told me about how she's had to fix dislocated and broken jaws from people feeding that way.

What's the professional opinion; good vet, she'll do for now, or keep looking?


Sorry for the wall-o-text; thanks for reading. :)

RobbiesCornField
03-16-2012, 06:38 AM
I'd order some of their larger fuzzies. That's about the same weight as what your snake is eating now. Just because she hides for three days doesn't mean she's digesting for all three of those days. How long do you see a belly bump in her?

As far as the vet goes, for just a simple exam, that seems more thorough than quite a few vets I've had the "pleasure" of working with. I can only imagine that the people she was mentioning the broken/dislocated jaws on were feeding struggling, live prey. Also, there are some snakes that can't handle 1.5x, but will sure as heck try (California kingsnakes come to mind).

That is just my personal opinion.

Nanci
03-16-2012, 07:21 AM
I feed using the Munson Plan, conservatively. All the different mouse suppliers have different size ranges for the different classifications of mice. So don't get stuck on the name, fuzzy, hopper, whatever, go by the Munson Plan weight range. I also don't move a snake up until it is _past_ the Munson Plan weight. So say you want to start hoppers at 50 grams- I wait till the snake is over 50 grams, and then feed the lowest weight of hopper according to MP.

Also, no matter what the chart says, if it looks too big, don't push it.

Also, you can always feed 1.5 of a prey item through the pinky/peach fuzz range when moving up.

MysticExotics
03-16-2012, 03:26 PM
I feed using the Munson Plan, conservatively. All the different mouse suppliers have different size ranges for the different classifications of mice. So don't get stuck on the name, fuzzy, hopper, whatever, go by the Munson Plan weight range. I also don't move a snake up until it is _past_ the Munson Plan weight. So say you want to start hoppers at 50 grams- I wait till the snake is over 50 grams, and then feed the lowest weight of hopper according to MP.

Also, no matter what the chart says, if it looks too big, don't push it.

Also, you can always feed 1.5 of a prey item through the pinky/peach fuzz range when moving up.

Ditto to this. I wait until the snake is a few grams over the Munson Plan weight listed to move up in prey size.
I would go with the large Fuzzies. You will inevitably get a few smaller ones, & can give her the smaller ones first.

I agree with Robbie as well, go more by how fast the belly bump shows, than how long she's in her hide.

Nanci
03-16-2012, 03:31 PM
Oh and, I actually weigh the mice...

Lycari
03-16-2012, 04:01 PM
I never see her while she's in the hide--I'd check, but I have to pull out the climbing branch to get at either hide, and sometimes she hides under the substrate.

On the other hand, she barely has a belly bump at all even immediately after eating. You can see where the mice are, but only if you know what she looks like empty. Heheh. Going by that method, I should probably be feeding triple pinks until I get rid of these. Will probably do that with the last three....

Alrighty. Large fuzzies it is. XD Thanks, all!