Issues with my Lavender girl.

[kmonteith]

She was 220g when I purchased her about 3 months ago, she ate great every week an subadult mouse.

She stopped eating 7-8 weeks ago. Sept 20th, she laid a surprise clutch of eggs. She had never been with a male under my possesion. Two of the 10 eggs looked fertile, so im assuming she was housed with a male before I bought her.
After laying eggs, she weighed 200g, and looked very underweight.

Even after laying, she refuses to eat. I've tried mice/rats/asfs of all different sizes and temperature. I attempt to feed weekly.

Her temperatures are 80 ambient, 85 on the 'warm' side provided by an UTH. Same temperatures I keep all of my snakes at (Currently 25 snakes) all other snakes eat perfectly.

I've tried making cool side cooler (75) and warm side the same, she uses both sides of her tank and moves around adjusting her own temperature. She drinks regularily.

Currently, she is at 157g. Since she's laid, shes lost 60grams. Her backbone is not clearly visible.

My question is, any of the pro's have any tips? Other than going to a vet, because that is what I will do should any tips not work out.
I plan on only giving her about another week-week and a half before a vet will be put into play.

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

[kmonteith]

Pic was taken about two weeks ago. Clearly shows the underweightness (I know its not a word.)
http://www.weebly.com/uploads/2/4/0/7/24078847/2183308_orig.jpg

[AliCat37]

Have you tried offering her live mice? Not adults (too dangerous), but hoppers?

Also, just a thought, have you made sure she isn't egg bound?
My skinny rescue snake didn't have a clear definition between the tail and the rest of the body.

Also, I assume you meant September 20, not November?

[kmonteith]

I tried a rat crawler or hopper (I'm bad at the names. It was about 20g) last night, live. She killed it, but did not eat it.

Edit: Forgot to add, she was on F/T her entire life.

[AliCat37]

I would try a live mouse, if she is used to eating mice.
Sometimes after they are so skinny like that they may be more enticed to eat live until eating regularly again. I'm sorry you're going through this, I hope she pulls through. Laying eggs at such a young/small size is very stressful.

[kmonteith]

She isnt egg bound, I felt and checked no signs of that. I've had it happen before so ive gotten pretty good at noticing that.

I'm completely at a loss..

[kmonteith]

The only thing shes eaten since laying, is a mouse PINKY that one of my hatchlings refused. I offered it to her 2 weeks ago because I was desperate for her to get some nutrition in her system.

[Nanci]

Maybe tempt her with a pile of live pinks?

I'd take a fecal to the vet and check for parasites. I'd also up her heat to 88F.

[Nanci]

I'd also try feeding her (something small at this point) the opposite of how you have been. If' you've been feeding in a feeding container, try overnight in her viv. Or smaller, or in a (big) paper bag in her viv. If you've been feeding her in her viv, put her in a small covered container. Overnight.

Is she done with her post-lay shed?

[kmonteith]

She did shed, a complete shed.
I've been feeding in her viv. I usually feed mice, but I've recently switched to rats.. I guess I'll have to get a supply of mice to feed to her.
I'll put her in a container, with an enclosed lid with a mouse. I hope that will work.

Thanks for the replies. I will let you know what happens.

[Nanci]

I'd also try "lower quality" dirty mousey smelling mice.

[kmonteith]

Never thought about that.. Curse me for using a high quality breeder! lol
Maybe keep the mouse in a container with some dirty bedding?

[crackerhead]

I agree with Nanci about the smaller prey items and warmer temps. Not all animals switch between rats and mice, so if she will eat pinkie or fuzzy mice then by all means feed her them. You can offer small meals like that everyday if she'll eat them. Don't leave her overnight with anything above a pinkie sized live meal. Any prey item induced trauma will only worsen the situation. If you have access to Nutribac then definitely add that to the feedings. Fecal samples are helpful but if the expense is too much then prophylactic worming with Panacur or Metranedazol is a possibility. I would shoot for feeding above worming right now because of her compromised health.
When all else fails force feeding a liquid nutrient diet is an option. I have feeding kits available if you want to go the route.

Good Luck!
Terri

[Nanci]

It's pretty easy to tube feed an adult snake, too.

And if you get her to take something, like a pinky again, then KEEP FEEDING till you get a good meal in her, even if she'll take 10 pinks!

[kmonteith]

I will try that..

Tube feeding, I don't know much about snake anatomy - I know they breath from the bottom of their mouths.. if I tube feed, do I have to worry about getting it wrong? or is it fairly straight forward?

Any links on proper techniques?

[Nanci]

I believe the kit has instructions.

[crackerhead]

The kit does have instructions and is super easy to use. It works on adults and hatchlings. It's a tool that everyone who owns snakes should have in their toolbox just in case. It's akin to keeping bandages and medicine around for your minor injuries. I have kept a non-eating hatchling alive and growing well for more than two years on the stuff before the lazy little bugger ate on it's own.:nope:

Terri

[kmonteith]

Well that makes me feel a HELL of alot better.
I just contact .

Thanks guys. appreciate the help.

It's people like you guys that caused me to become a contributing member even though I only have a few posts :)

[neworleansvamp]

good luck with your baby girl. I hope she pulls through.

[Buzzbee]

Good luck, got my fingers crossed for you!

[kmonteith]

Sad to say, shes not a baby. Shes probably two years old.
She just needs some damned nutrition.