Non-feeding babysnake.

[legitimatehypnotist]

I have a hatchling male Bloodred who has refused food now since October 5th. i received him in September, but he's fed only twice with me in all of that time.
His temps are 81 on the warm side, 76-77 (Fahrenheit) on the cool side , he has 5 hides. He's in a large Kritter Keeper, actually. I added three crumpled newspaper hides after his third failed feeding attempt.
I got him from VMS and when i purchased him, he was a reliable feeder, on f/t, and had already has several meals without any issue. Sean never sells snakes that have difficulty eating so it must be something to do with me.

Here are the methods I've tried:
Braining, Slitting, deli cup method, tease feeding, slap feeding, more deli cup method, more deli cup method, light misting/covering the tank and placing a mouse in the mouth if his hide, one mouse from a different source, one mouse that was scented by using stinky mouse litter (maybe not stinky enough, admittedly.) and still, nothing.
I've had success with the misting/darkening the tank method, but only after teasing him for about ten seconds. Once it had his attention, I dropped it in, covered the tank, and he ate it. But that was a month ago. I attempt to feed once every 5 days. His name is Worf and he always has fresh water.
ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS?

I'm getting a live pink to offer within the next few days, but does anyone else have tips/tricks?? And more importantly, how long should I allow this to go before I have to have him force fed? He's otherwise healthy, strong, vigorous and inquisitive, but I'm at a loss.

What do you guys use to scent mice and what tricks do you do to get stubborn babies to take them?? I';m open to trying anything at this point. He's beautiful, sweet, unique compared to my others and genetically VERY VALUABLE and I want him to pull through.
HELP ME PLEASE SNAKE GODS.

[legitimatehypnotist]

I forgot to mention that I also remove his heat while attempting to feed! I got that tip from another breeder.

[Chip]

I'd stop removing his heat while attempting to feed, first and foremost! At cooler temps, they aren't going to exactly be in a mood to eat. When using belly heat, I keep a hot spot of 86 for babies, but I have enclosures that allow me to do that. Obviously, too hot is far more dangerous than too cool, but too cool is never going to stimulate appetite. Can you better describe your set up? Kritter Keepers are those clear hard plastic containers with the ventilated snap-on tops, no?

[legitimatehypnotist]

Thank you. the room he's kept in is usually 74 degrees anyway, but I found that he only ate when the conditions were closest to "natural", but I'll definitely keep the UTH slid underneath when I feed from now on. It didn't really make a difference, I was just trying anything thrown my way :)
The Kritter Keeper is a 2.5 gallon, hard plastic with a vented top. He has a nice temp gradient as well, his hot spot, the middle of the tank is about 80 according to the temp gun, and the cool side is 75 exactly. I've actually found it's been much easier to keep track of his habits in the kritter keeper, i only used actual tanks for hatchlings in the past. His uth is small and I do have a thermostat for the small mats. He's on paper towel substrate right now, once he starts growing and eating more I plan on switching him onto aspen. He has a log hide on the warm side with a crumpled newspaper hide behind it, a paper towel roll hide in the cool side and some real tight squeeze hides randomly placed throughout. i thought he might be insecure so i added as many hidey holes as possible. He also has some climbing vines, which he enjoys very much lol.
Like I said, in the past, as per the breeder's advice, I mist once before offering food, and this always, without fail, stimulates his hunting behavior. But he rarely actually takes the prey, it's driving me nuts. His corner of the room is darker and quieter than the other snake's locations.
I do not handle him often at all, only once every ten days for once-overs and weight checks. He doesn't seem to mind handling much at all.
After eating he poos fine, and he drinks lots of water so he excretes urates normally as well.

I'm just wondering how long I should allow this to go before I have to forcefeed? I do not want to but I also don't want him to die. And I'm just literally digging for ANY TIPS AT ALL. He's a great snake, but proving to be quite the headache in regards to feeding.
I've never had a single issue with Sean's snakes before EVER, and I did exactly what he does when feeding his hatchlings, so I know it's something about me or my home he doesn't like.
ALSO, How long should you leave a live pink in with a snake?

[Chip]

I won't leave a pinkie with a snake over 8 to 12 hours, tops. I feed late in the day, and generally, if it's still there with them in the morning, they aren't going to eat. This applies to live or frozen.

I am a huge opponent of force feeding. Sometimes for a first meal after 8 weeks I'll force a tail section, but the whole thing is traumatic and one minor mouth or glottis injury will put them off food until they heal. A snake that was feeding, then stops, usually has an environmental factor discouraging them from feeding.

[legitimatehypnotist]

I agree. I'm just very concerned that he'll still refuse food once he starts to lose weight and that's the only reason I'd ever ever consider it :(
I'm so desperate to get him back on food, poor little guy. He's so beautiful and cute.
Is it true that you can scent the mice with tuna water? Have you or anyone you know has success with that?

[Chip]

Try scenting with anything, it can never hurt when they don't want frozen thawed. Many find pouring a little boiling water over the pink until it just turns white works more often than anything and I concur.

[legitimatehypnotist]

Thank you so much! If you think of any more ideas at all, feel free to shoot them my way. I'll do anything at this point.
I'd like to think I'm "fairly experienced" but this guy is giving me a run for my money and puzzling me and making me feel like a failure lol.

[Guruofchem]

The boiled pink method often works wonders. Make sure to wait between attempts, otherwise you just continue to stress it out even more, which prevents eating. I also think your hot side temps are a little cool; 82-84 is a better target. If there is not enough heat to digest well, your snake may not eat.

[ghosthousecorns]

I agree try dipping the pinkies in boiling water, it works wonders. I have also had good luck with tease feeding and also putting the snake in a small deli with pinky and covering up so it is completely dark and undisturbed for several hours. (Late in the day like Chip suggests) Sometimes one thing works, sometimes another. Live sometimes does the trick.
Try not to get too frustrated, babies can go on little hunger strikes. I think if he's eaten before he will again when ready. I do not believe in force feeding.

[ghosthousecorns]

Could just be about to shed and not want food.

[legitimatehypnotist]

Update: THE BOILED PINKY WORKED LIKE A CHARM! Thank you, Chip.

[Chip]

Glad it worked, but don't thank me -others were doing that long before I did!

[Nanci]

I wish there was a way to spread the word about boiled pinks. I think it would save a lot of lives.

[legitimatehypnotist]

I never would have thought of it had you not mentioned that it's been successful for you. Definitely going to tell people with non-feeders about this method any chance I get :)

[Nanci]

I know it's getting to be common knowledge in our group, but in the world of cornsnakes in general, including people who never even get on line- I wish they all knew. When ever I see an ad with non-feeders for sale, I PM the seller and say hey, just try boiled- it works SO often.

[knox]

First I have heard of dipping in boiled water. Glad I stopped by this thread! There is always something for us old guys to learn.