More than two weeks without feeding

[BugAyedBradshaw]

Yes, another noob that is freaked cause their corn won't eat.

He's about 2.5-3 ft in length and (if I remember correctly) about 150 grams. We had been feeding him 2-3 reg fuzzies (FT). We were going off of the feeding chart here: http://medusa-corns.webs.com/feedingchart.htm We don't give him About a week and a half ago, we tried to feed him weanlings or hoppers though cause the reg fuzzy is still about double the size of head. Each fuzzy is about 5-6 g a piece.

We haven't changed up how we feed him. Sometimes, my wife will take him out, hold him for a little bit while I warm up the mice, then he eats. But the other half of the time we take him out, put him in his feeding tub, place the mouse next to him, and then he goes to town.

When we first tried to feed him a week and a half ago, then a half a week later, and finally an additional week after that (today), he definitely knows the mouse is there. He goes right up to it, smells it, then slithers on by like it isn't there. A few times he has done the head-cocked-now-I'm-going-to-bite-you move, then once again, acts disinterested.

He has been looking healthy up till now. He looks pretty boney, much more than before. I've noticed that he has been a lot more active as well. About 80% of the time I'll peak in, and he'll be roaming around, as compared to before now when he was barely ever out of hiding regardless of the time of day.

He's been great to us. He has a fantastic temperament, never bit at us, so we would hate to lose him (our first). Any thoughts would be appreciated.

[brindle]

He's a male for certain? Most males will not feed when they are preoccupied with their hormones... it is spring time! ;)
In all seriousness, it isn't uncommon for males (and even females) to go off of feed when they feel the need to breed. Indeed.
Lol sorry,...

[AliCat37]

I don't know what the size of his head has to do with anything, and not quite sure where these myths start. As long as the food is about the same thickness as his body, he can eat it. I would not worry he hasn't eaten though.

[ZiggysMom]

I think the size of head thing comes in because that is how food is measured for a lot of lizard species. But for snakes, we want to compare the food size to the widest part of the snake.
This time of year it could well be that young snakes fancy turns to love. Don't try to feed any more often than normal.
The extra activity could be spring, but double check your temperatures just to give yourself extra piece of mind.

[BugAyedBradshaw]

@Brindle, haha! Unfortunate we are not certain of the gender. But by doin some looking at pics of different genders (not comfortable trying popping him/her), we 're pretty sure he is in fact a he.


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[Nanci]

He's too big to pop.

I would try a fuzzy, thawed in hot water, then blow-dried till it is REALLY hot.

It's not unusual for some males to not eat at this time of the year. Also, be sure to not offer more often than one time a week.

For his weight, I would be feeding a medium weanling, something in the 16-18 gram range, once he starts eating again. I would work up to that in several steps, though. Corns generally seem to have a hard time figuring out how to swallow the new prey size efficiently, for the first couple times they encounter it.

[HeavenHell]

Several of my kings will refuse their normal size prey this time of year, but will take prey a size or two smaller. No idea why, but you may want to give it a try if you have a variety of F/T.

[NH93]

Great advice (especially by Nanci). I also have to say, for his "looking boney"... I think that's all in your head! :) Just from 2 weeks of not feeding, I HIGHLY doubt you'd notice any difference whatsoever, unless it were a hatchling (but I don't breed so I don't know for sure about the hatchlings). When corns go into blue often owners don't feed during that time, or corns refuse meals. Mine will sometimes refuse in shed and go 2-3 weeks without a meal.

[BugAyedBradshaw]

Thanks for all the help everyone. It all makes sense.

He isn't blue, and even when he is, he's never refused a meal. Guess that's why it feels so alarming since it's the first time he hasn't eaten.

I appreciate all the help. Feel better now just letting him be for another week and that more than likely, he'll eventually eat.


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[kc261]

If he does look "pretty boney" after missing only 2 weeks of food, or even after missing a month of food, I'd be concerned there is something else going on. Like he was already undernourished before that or he has a heavy load of internal parasites or some other illness.

[BugAyedBradshaw]

What other signs would I need to look for if he had those issues? Honestly I'm thinkin I am paranoid.


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[ThaPaintGuy]

How's the temperature day and night? How old is he? What have you been feeding? What kind of lighting are you using?.....these things will give us a better idea of whats happening so we can give you proper advice.....

[ThaPaintGuy]

Sorry..didn't see page 1 lol ...im new here.

[BugAyedBradshaw]

Sorry for the one month bump, so please bear with me.

Update: he took 2 fuzzies last Wednesday and one tonight. We tried to give him more since it had been so long, but didn't go for them. He still feels strong and doesn't look too skinny. But as I have said earlier, he is out first and we are inexperienced.


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[chersbldhnd]

If he does look "pretty boney" after missing only 2 weeks of food, or even after missing a month of food, I'd be concerned there is something else going on. Like he was already undernourished before that or he has a heavy load of internal parasites or some other illness.
How do you know if your snake has parasites or some other illness? My male corn snake went through the usual hyperactivity and refusing to eat when spring came last month. But now his activity level has died down and he still is completely ignoring a thawed and warmed mouse. His scales are just hanging on him. He is 15 years old. We are going to try giving him fuzzies as some one suggested on this website, but I was wondering if this could just be old age or some other kind of health condition.

[chersbldhnd]

I think the size of head thing comes in because that is how food is measured for a lot of lizard species. But for snakes, we want to compare the food size to the widest part of the snake.
This time of year it could well be that young snakes fancy turns to love. Don't try to feed any more often than normal.
The extra activity could be spring, but double check your temperatures just to give yourself extra piece of mind.
I am having a similar issue, but my male snake's spring hyperactivity has died down and he is still ignoring mice. I am going to try giving him a fuzzy instead (he has only had 1 mouse in 4 weeks time). He is 15 years old and about 4 feet long. You mentioned "checking temperatures" and I was wondering temperatures of what?

[Nanci]

Of his warm side. Is it 84ish?

A bunch of my males just went on feeding strike this time. I have one who has refused three meals in a row- that's like 9 weeks. He's fine. Fat and happy.

[Nanci]

Oh- your guy sounds like he's in rough shape. Check for parasites with a fecal at the vet. I'd try him on a rat pink.

[Nanci]

Plus- 15 years is getting up there. The longest corns typically live is 20 years, but 15 is really quite old. That's a nice long life. That's kind of how elderly corns go out- they just slow down and quit eating. Hopefully it's not that.

[smigon]

How's the temperature day and night? How old is he? What have you been feeding? What kind of lighting are you using?.....these things will give us a better idea of whats happening so we can give you proper advice.....

The temperatures from day to night should be no different, they should always be 87° on top of the glass, under the substrate. The UTH (under tank heater) should cover 1/3 of the bottom of the tank, put the digital thermometer directly over the middle of the UTH. This should make the top of the substrate around 85° and the cool side will be about 75°. You should have a hide on each end so he can choose where he wants to be. Having an infrared laser thermometer is also recommended to ensure the right temps.

ThaPaintGuy, lights are really not recommended for corns, regardless of what a lot of people say or have told you. They tend to dry out the viv, and don't provide belly heat that helps corns digest their food. UTHs have proven much more efficient and cheaper than lights since the bulbs are so expensive and you have to rearrange them when you want to open the tank.

[smigon]

we tried to feed him weanlings or hoppers though cause the reg fuzzy is still about double the size of head. Each fuzzy is about 5-6 g a piece.


The width method of measuring the size of prey is taken from the widest point of the snake, not the head. Trust me, these guys will surprise you with how wide they can open their mouths, and those necks will stretch to no end it seems!

And it is 1.5 times the widest width of the snake, not double. Feeding two smaller mice is fine, three could cause a regurge which you do NOT want. Just bump up the size of the mouse now that you know they can take it.

And yes, this spring it seems many more corns than usual are having spring fever, worrying their owners.