Regurgitation issues continued

[cobra314]

I have asked on here about this before. I got my first snake from Petsmart and had regurge issues. I went through everything including taking her to the vet. I finally took her back and got a different snake. Had the same issues. The manager at Petsmart had worked with me through the entire process so I was able to return the second one. I have checked and rechecked my temperatures, changed to bottled water, not handled them, even had someone come to my house and look at my setup. I purchased a new one from a breeder. This guy is almost 2 years old and very healthy. Fed him for the first time and he ate well. Pooped after 2 1/2 days. I weighed him on the third day. That night he regurgitated what was left of his meal. It has always happened on the 3rd night.
I have the viv set up in my living room near the back door. I have an 8 yr old son and a 5yr old daughter that are....well...kids. They don't mess with the viv, but are always playing, are loud, and go out to the backyard to play. I am wondering if I should move the viv to a different room until he settles in a little more. He is very active and curious and always moving around his viv to check things out. It's the only thing left that I can think of. I'm going crazy!!

[Chip]

What type of thermometer are you measuring temperatures with? What are they in the coolest and warmest end? Where are your mice coming from? I'd bet if it isn't temperature related, it's the food. Stress can cause a regurge, but I wouldn't think typical household kid noise would be enough to, but you would know better how much vibration is coming to the tank on a daily basis. In the future, I wouldn't weigh until the snake has defecated, you'll get a more accurate weight empty anyway.

[cobra314]

I have a thermometer in the tank and I also have a laser hand held. The mice have come from 4 different sources throughout this process. I did wait until after he pooped to weigh him. On the warm side it is 80-85 on the surface of the aspen and cool side is 70-75. I check it just about every day because this has been such an issue. I'm almost to the point of saying to heck with having a snake. I don't really want to do that though. He does not stay in one area for very long except for sleeping under the aspen on the cool side during the day. He continually goes from the warm hide to the cool side to up in the tree/vines etc.

[Chip]

80 for the warm side is a little cool. I wouldn't expect regurges at 80, but digestion will be slower. Bump your thermostat up a couple of degrees, and keep it around 84-86 on the heat. Again, these temps aren't off enough to cause this problem, but compounded with stress, it might be the tipping point.
If the snake regurged, he was not empty when you weighed him. Any chance the mice are too large?

[cobra314]

No. I have fed them according to size and the Munson chart. The 80-85 is the average temp range of the warm side. Inside the hide it is right at 85/86. On the perimeter near the glass it is closer to 80. Keep in mind that this is 3 different snakes all having the exact same issue and have been fed from 4 different mouse sources.

[Chip]

Back off on your feeder size. The Munson plan is not for every snake, I've had all kinds of regurges using it, it's an aggressive plan to grow out snakes quickly.

[cobra314]

I have always chosen small pinkies for the younger ones and I fed the new guy the smallest of the fuzzies that they had at the store. He is at 40 grams and ate it with no problem. I have some that are between pinkie/fuzzy stage that I could try with him.

[hypnoctopus]

After a regurge, definitely give him at least a week of no food and then a very small meal. I would cut slits in its back and also dust it with Nutribac.

How do the mice smell and look when you hear them up? How are you thawing them?

[Chip]

If you are having regurge issues, smaller meals are always safer. I wish people wouldn't recommend the Munson plan so freely. It really isn't appropriate for every corn. Weigh the food items, and stay 50 to 75% of the Muson plans suggestions, but shave a day off of feeding frequency, and I expect your problems might go away. After the regurge protocol is finished, of course. Good luck, I expect we might have found the problem. A tad cool + vibration stress + big meals might have added up. I don't feed anything that isn't actively crawling on feeding day, either.

[cobra314]

I will check the weight/size on the ones I have and give that a shot. Thanks for the help and I will get back with results!

[Chip]

Best wishes. Definitely give him ten days before offering food, and make the first meal very small. After a defecation, you can feed again.

[cobra314]

I have been thawing them using about 8 oz of water, microwaved for 1:20 then put the mouse in a plastic bag and put into water for 10 minutes. Not sure abourt the look and smell.....they look like thawed dead mice. I haven't smelled anything bad so not sure what else to be looking for.

[Chip]

Odds of getting bad mice from four consecutive places are very low. In ten days, give a tiny meal, and don't handle at all until after defecation. Kathy Love FAQ's

FAQ from Kathy Love on Regurgitation Treatment

THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT - once a snake has regurged, especially twice or more, it is more likely to keep on regurging until it dies, unless something is changed about its care and feeding. It is very important NOT to let this continue. PLEASE FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW VERY CAREFULLY. This is from my FAQ on regurges:

I suspect your problem is probably not bad mice, but about handling too soon, feeding too soon or too large of a meal, a stomach "bug", or improper temps. If you make these mistakes once, or even twice, it is not usually a problem if you FOLLOW MY INSTRUCTIONS EXACTLY. But remember, each time it regurges, the stomach acids are depleted, and the whole electrolyte balance is thrown off more and more each time, and it makes it MORE likely that it will continue to throw up until it dies. (those consequences are just my opinions - I do not know if science backs up my conclusions, but my experience certainly does!) That is why it is so important to NOT ALLOW another regurge.

The next month or two is crucial. DO NOT feed it for AT LEAST 8 days since the last regurge. NOT ANYTHING AT ALL! Then get a newborn frozen pinky and cut it in half (or cut off just the head) If she eats it, leave her alone for a whole week. (no handling). Repeat the partial pinkie feeding the following week. Then feed a whole newborn pinkie a week after that, if there has been no regurge. Leave alone for a whole week. If she regurges, wait a week and repeat 1/2 pinkie. If she keeps it down, wait a week and repeat whole pinkie. If she holds down a couple of meals, DO NOT rush back into larger meals and more handling. Treat this seriously. Go very slowly. After 3 successful meals, go to a newborn pink every 5 days. Go back to normal feedings only after 6 successful meals. Always wait to handle until after 3 or 4 days, but only AFTER 6 successful meals. No handling until then (causes stress, need to keep stress down). And NEVER feed again right after a regurge - ALWAYS wait AT LEAST 7 or 8 days, maybe even up to 10 days, and then only feed something that was about 1/2 the size (or less) of what she regurged..

Also, be sure that temps are not too warm or cool. Try to give an area of low to mid 80s on one side and 70s on the other. Too hot or cold will cause regurges.

Grapefruit seed extract can sometimes help if the snake has some sort of "stomach bug" (any microbial problem) as it is a natural remedy that is good against many kinds of pathogens, but not as strong as an antibiotic prescribed by a doctor. This product has been used in agriculture for many years and seems to be very safe, as long as you dilute it with enough water that the acidity does not burn the tissues. A vet has told me he feels that it may somewhat alter the pH of the animal and thus change the way medicines are absorbed. So if you use this product and then take the snake to a vet, mention the treatment so it can be taken into account if the vet decides to change the prescription because of it. It is best to mix it in a glass and taste it to make sure it is not so bitter that the snake refuses to drink it. I have used it on myself and so has my husband. I find it works better on stomach problems than for other symptoms (such as respiratory - I didn't have any luck treating colds or other respiratory problems).You can buy it at a local health food store or online. Please refer to the following website for more background info:
http://www.nutriteam.com/index2.html

I have also had success with a probiotic called Nutri Bac, a fine powder containing seven different microflora that should be inhabiting the gut of reptiles, but may be absent due to stress, disease, antibiotic treatments, etc. Using the powder as a supplement will sometimes allow the reptile to get back the natural balance of microbes in its digestive tract, and then its own immune system can take over. See my website for more details, or go here:
http://www.cornutopia.com/Corn%20Ut...information.htm

The number of days and amounts of food, etc, suggested above are not set in stone. Other people may have success with slightly different formulas, but this is what I found works for me and many of my customers. If this protocol does not work when carefully followed, it is likely that the snake has some severe problems. Your only hope is a QUALIFIED herp vet, who may or may not be able to save your pet.

Please follow my care sheet for the first month or so when starting with new acquisitions (posted on my website for the first month's care of new corns).. The first month is crucial in getting the baby established. It is worth a little extra "coddling" for the first month in order to have a trouble free pet for the next 10 or 15 years or more.

Good luck!
Kathy Love

CONTACT INFO:

CORNUTOPIA / Kathy Love
Captive-Bred Cornsnakes

WEB: http://www.CornUtopia.com
TEL: (239) 728 2390
Backup tel. # 239-691-4414 (Cell)
EMAIL: kathy@CornUtopia.com
__________________

[TyeW]

I have been thawing them using about 8 oz of water, microwaved for 1:20 then put the mouse in a plastic bag and put into water for 10 minutes. Not sure abourt the look and smell.....they look like thawed dead mice. I haven't smelled anything bad so not sure what else to be looking for.

Try thawing at room temp. That way the entire rodent is completely and slowly thawed. Then, once it is fully thawed, heat it in hot water before feeding. And listen to what Chip says, he is spot on. I'm not sure why the munson plan is so highly recommended here, I find it a recipe for overweight snakes. Anything under a year old gets fed every 5 days here, the rest get fed every 10 days. I wouldn't feed a Juvie/2 year more than every 7 days or so. And yes, allow some recuperation time after regurge and proceed with a smaller prey item.

[drybgerg]

How much does the snake weigh? The more I've been feeding the munson plan the more I'm backing off as it's more aggressive than what I want. I haven't had any regurgitation issues (knock wood).

[cobra314]

How much does the snake weigh? The more I've been feeding the munson plan the more I'm backing off as it's more aggressive than what I want. I haven't had any regurgitation issues (knock wood).

He is 40 grams. I fed him the smallest fuzzy in the bunch and it looked to be about right. I plan to go a little smaller now though.

[drybgerg]

He is 40 grams. I fed him the smallest fuzzy in the bunch and it looked to be about right. I plan to go a little smaller now though.

How much did the fuzzy weigh?

[cobra314]

I didnt weigh it.

[drybgerg]

I didnt weigh it.

I'd start weighing your feeders, sort and feed the smallest first. Depending on where you get them there can be a good difference in weight between each mouse.

[cobra314]

Here is another question. I was talking with my father and he asked are snakes supposed to keep all of the mouse down. He was thinking that after digesting most of the mouse they get rid of the skin/bones. Should they be digesting the entire mouse?

[drybgerg]

Here is another question. I was talking with my father and he asked are snakes supposed to keep all of the mouse down. He was thinking that after digesting most of the mouse they get rid of the skin/bones. Should they be digesting the entire mouse?

Yes they will digest the whole mouse.

[hypnoctopus]

As your snake gets older, sometimes you will see mouse fur in the poop, but otherwise, everything gets digested.

[ashleynicole]

I doubt he regurgitated on the 3rd night after feeding... the meal is digested by then. It Sounds like he just pooped. A regurgitation would smell like a dead animal in your house and make you gag

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[ashleynicole]

Also I don't like the Munson plan either. It does seeem too aggressive and growing too quickly can shorten overall lifespan.

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[hypnoctopus]

I doubt he regurgitated on the 3rd night after feeding... the meal is digested by then. It Sounds like he just pooped. A regurgitation would smell like a dead animal in your house and make you gag

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If his temps are a bit cool, digestion takes longer, and regurge could definitely happen on the third day. Even with warmer temps, I have had one snake regurge several days after eating.

[ashleynicole]

I want to hear a description of what these frequent regurgitations smell like... only then will i be convinced. Many mostaken poor stools for a regurge because low temps can also result in poor stools with some "bits" and even good stools can be mistaken. People dont always know the white part of the stool is urates and perfectly normal

Plus the OPs temps sound suitable. Although going up to 86 wouldn't hurt.

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[smigon]

I have a thermometer in the tank and I also have a laser hand held. The mice have come from 4 different sources throughout this process. I did wait until after he pooped to weigh him. On the warm side it is 80-85 on the surface of the aspen and cool side is 70-75.

I agree that these temps are too cool.

Where exactly is the probe of the thermometer placed? The temps need to be taken under the aspen on top of the glass directly over the UTH. I keep my temps at 86-87° according to the probe (the thermostat should be set at 87°), with just checking the top of the aspen it may be too hot or too cold depending on the room temp and you won't get accurate temps that way.

[cobra314]

I have the thermometer placed on top of the aspen. It is approx. 85 on top of the aspen in the hide on the warm side. If the temp was 85 at the glass then it would only be high 70s on top of the aspen.

These regurges have not had bad odor, but they are clearly not poop. It is partially digested rodent with skin. Unless they are passing that then I would say it was a regurge.

[dave partington]

I have the thermometer placed on top of the aspen. It is approx. 85 on top of the aspen in the hide on the warm side. If the temp was 85 at the glass then it would only be high 70s on top of the aspen.

These regurges have not had bad odor, but they are clearly not poop. It is partially digested rodent with skin. Unless they are passing that then I would say it was a regurge.

After a regurge, definitely give him at least a week of no food and then a very small meal. I would cut slits in its back and also dust it with Nutribac.



^^^This. Small, Slits, SLIGHT dusting of Nutribac. Slight. Not overloaded with Nutribac. Just a tiny dab of it on the head of the small mousie.
it is easiest to make the slits while the mousicle is still mostly frozen- thawed for a minute or two, so the knife will go through the skin easily but still solid inside.

[cobra314]

What about the thermometer location issue? At the glass or on top of the substrate and why.

[ashleynicole]

These regurges have not had bad odor, but they are clearly not poop. It is partially digested rodent with skin. Unless they are passing that then I would say it was a regurge.

No odor means it is most definitely NOT a regurge. Regurges are one of the worst smells you will ever smell in your life. And believe me, I'm a nurse and I have smelled some pretty bad things and most odors don't even phase me, but a regurge will make most people gag. It's like a dead animal that you can smell in your entire house.

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[cobra314]

If it happens again I will take a picture. I can't see something this large coming out of the back end of a snake though.

[Chip]

I would not be so certain. They smell when they sit for any time or are on heat, but I've pulled my share out with no noticeable odor at all. I wouldn't want him being assured something was not a regurge that could be.

[dave partington]

What about the thermometer location issue? At the glass or on top of the substrate and why.

I like my digital temperature reader. Little handheld device, just point and press, instant reading. Allows me to instantly read the temperature in various locations.
$1.17 to $15.41 (ebay), also try amazon, home improvement stores, walmart, etc.

There's also a free andriod app but I have no idea if it's right for this instance.

[Popcorn715]

What about the thermometer location issue? At the glass or on top of the substrate and why.

Everything I've read says on the glass. My assumption is that's because they can burrow to the glass to get warmer if they want or sit up higher on the aspen to be a bit cooler. The glass would probably have to be pretty hot to get the top of the aspen up to 85...the wood and trapped air is going to insulate a fair amount. Also, unless you've got a proportional thermostat, you're going to get a temperature swing. Ours fluctuates from 84-88 according to the probed thermometer.

We keep the aspen fairly thin throughout the tank, but I usually put an extra little handful in the middle of the hides. On both sides I've seen our snake sitting on top of the pile, with his head sticking out of the pile, and sometimes he shoves it all into the opening and sits behind it when I guess he's feeling extra antisocial ;)

[cobra314]

I like my digital temperature reader. Little handheld device, just point and press, instant reading. Allows me to instantly read the temperature in various locations.
$1.17 to $15.41 (ebay), also try amazon, home improvement stores, walmart, etc.

There's also a free andriod app but I have no idea if it's right for this instance.



I have one of those that I use also. I have been checking, rechecking, and then checking again since this all started.

Is there any diffinitive answer on whether the temperature on the warm side should be at the glass or on top of the substrate? That can be a really big difference. To me on top of the substrate seems logical. Why should they have to burrow beneath to get the proper temperature?

[hypnoctopus]

My snakes have had partial regurges that did not have a noticeable odor. In fact, they didn't even smell as bad as poop. If you've seen snake poop a number of times, you should be able to tell that it doesn't look like poop.

[hypnoctopus]

I have one of those that I use also. I have been checking, rechecking, and then checking again since this all started.

Is there any diffinitive answer on whether the temperature on the warm side should be at the glass or on top of the substrate? That can be a really big difference. To me on top of the substrate seems logical. Why should they have to burrow beneath to get the proper temperature?

I think most people agree that the max temperature should be on the glass. Snakes burrow anyway, and if you have enough aspen, they can choose how far down they want to go to get to the heat. If the glass was really hot to get that 86 degree temperature on top of the aspen, they may burrow down and burn themselves.

[drybgerg]

I think most people agree that the max temperature should be on the glass. Snakes burrow anyway, and if you have enough aspen, they can choose how far down they want to go to get to the heat. If the glass was really hot to get that 86 degree temperature on top of the aspen, they may burrow down and burn themselves.

I agree, I take my temps on the glass below the aspen.

[ashleynicole]

If it doesn't smell it is NOT a regurge.

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[ashleynicole]

And the likelihood of regurgitating 3 days after eating is not likely, much less 3 different snakes always regurgitating 3 days after eating? This is when they normally poop... your snake is most likely pooping. You're an admittedly new keeper of snakes, therefore I assume not very experienced in what a notmal snake poo looks like. Google "snake poop" and "snake regurge" and to get some ideas on what yoir looking at.

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[hypnoctopus]

If it doesn't smell it is NOT a regurge.

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There's no way for us to know without him showing us a picture. That being said, wouldn't it be better to be safe than sorry? If he treats it like a poop and doesn't change anything, the snake is likely not going to recover.

You also said before that you've only had one regurge in 9 years, which is great, but I just don't think you can judge someone else's problem with so little experience on regurges.

[ashleynicole]

"A regurge is an incredibly foul smelling upchuck of whatever the snake last ate - and usually appear minutes, hours or even a day or so after it was eaten. They can look anything from just as the prey was consumed up to a mass of jelly looking mush. You will KNOW a regurge when you eventually get one - the smell is that bad!"


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[cobra314]

If it doesn't smell it is NOT a regurge.

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What would you like to call it then?

[ashleynicole]

Did my snake poo or regurge? - CornSnakes.com Forums
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58745

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[ashleynicole]

I would also ask if there are any white chalky bits in what you think was regurgitated?

Also sometimes if you put it in water I habe read a regurge won't break apart and poop will.

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[cobra314]

About 3 days later I find this thing at the bottom of the cage but it sure didn't look like a poo or the pics of the regurges I've seen. It was smooth and whitish(the color of the mouse's fur) and about the size of the mouse length wise but thinner, maybe half the circumference of Ziggy. It didn't really smell, although I didn't get that close either.

"Well, Ziggy sheds 3 days later so I'm thinking ok, maybe it was because of the shed. So I wait 8 days then try another fuzzy and he takes it just fine. This one was even smaller than the first so I'm thinking he should be fine. Hardly a lump after he ate it. Well, sure enough 3-4 days later I find the same thing."


That is what I am getting, but there are also times with what is definitely feces, urates, and liquid. The ones that I have taken back to Petsmart had the same issue after I took them back and they called it a regurge also, which tells me that it was not doing that when they had the snakes. Like I said, next time I will take a pic and post it.

[Chip]

Poop smells too, AN. I'm not sure why you are protesting this. Plenty of regurges aren't rancid smelling.

[hypnoctopus]

Hopefully there won't be a next time!

Several years ago, one of my snakes regurged because I was new to keeping snakes and I tried to feed him two fuzzies. That one definitely looked like a regurgitated mouse; you could still see some of the features - no question about it. And it smelled bad.

However, I have also had a regurge from the tank not being warm enough. This one came several days after feeding, and it was very soft and whitish/pinkish. The snake had also pooped, which was clearly a poop. This one did not smell very bad, and it could be pulled apart very easily. I think when the temperatures aren't quite high enough, the snake can almost digest the meal (which is why mine pooped as well), but not completely, which is why there was also a partial regurge.

Here is a link with pictures to my thread about it: http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=127909&

[Nanci]

Snakes can regurge any time from immediately to 5-6 days later. I've found that 3-4 days is the most common.

A fresh regurge will be unchanged, but slimy. This is usually caused by it not going down right, or being too large to get down, or the snake being startled. And it is voluntary.

Then the longer digestion goes on (or not!) the more the mouse decomposes inside the snake, till it finally comes up. And then, the longer it takes you to find it, the worse it smells.

With a small, early regurge, if you don't catch it right away, the aspen will dessicate it, and you might fine it days or weeks later, as a dried mummy.

If it's very warm, and the prey is bigger, and not super decomposed, it might turn into a black, rotting corpse. The worsdt!

[cobra314]

Here are some examples that I found online:

What I have called regurgitations have looked like this and sometimes more shriveled up and digested, but always had what looked like skin on the outside.

http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae225/Deppei/DSC01319.jpg

This is what I call poop has looked like:

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r197/Zim_Snake/poop.jpg

[hypnoctopus]

First picture looks like a regurge to me.

[cobra314]

Do I restrict him to the warm side after feeding or should the snake go to the warm side on his own? He likes to sleep on the cool side. Jeez.....I thought this was supposed to be easy! LOL

[Chip]

No, let him go where he wants. He's better at thermoregulating his temp than you are.

[cobra314]

This guy better get his act together then.

[RedCloud]

If it doesn't smell it is NOT a regurge.

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I actually had a regurge that was FIVE days after feeding and didn't smell at all. I know it was a regurge cause I watched it come out of his mouth lol


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[RedCloud]

Do I restrict him to the warm side after feeding or should the snake go to the warm side on his own? He likes to sleep on the cool side. Jeez.....I thought this was supposed to be easy! LOL


Ok I know people say they take care of their own temps. And they do. I don't have NEARLY the experience some of the other people here do, but here's what I've seen with my snake. The one time I had a regurge is the one time I let him go into whatever hide he wanted, and he chose the cool side. I handled him 5 days after and a half eaten mouse exploded out of his mouth. Not pretty. I didn't feed him again for a week, and when I did, I gave him a smaller prey item dusted with nutribac. As a lot of people here said it seems to be a combo of little things that make snakes regurge. In my case, I was feeding slightly too large, slightly too often AND he was in slightly cooler temps when digesting. Now what I do, is after he completely finishes eating his mouse (I feed in separate containers) I GENTLY place him into his Viv and GUIDE HIS HEAD INTO THE WARM HIDE. I find after he eats he just sits in one place for a while, so I make sure he gets into the warm hide and leave him be. Now I get poops 3 days after feeding and he's up and about :) idk if that will work for you, but since you said yours spends a lot of time on the cool side it would be worth a shot when you feed him next. And obviously I'd feed something smaller next week.


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[Nanci]

If it doesn't smell it is NOT a regurge.



I've had regurges that don't smell, either because they are not very decomposed, or they dry out.

The horrible putrid smell tells you almost for sure you have a regurge, but lack of a horrible smell is not always conclusive that you don't.

[cobra314]

I had some pinkies. Today is a week since he ate last. I got a pinkie that was 3 1/2 to 4 grams and put some repti-bac on the head. He ate it easily and is now back in his viv.

[RedCloud]

I had some pinkies. Today is a week since he ate last. I got a pinkie that was 3 1/2 to 4 grams and put some repti-bac on the head. He ate it easily and is now back in his viv.


Just out of curiosity, after eating the pink, is he in the warm side or the cool? Has he been active after?


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[cobra314]

He climbed onto the top of his tree for a little while and he is in the warm hide now.

[smigon]

I really hope this turns around for you. I am glad you are taking constructive criticism and actually applying it to help your snake instead of getting upset because you were corrected in some of your husbandry practices. We are here to help, and as you can see, you have gotten advice from some real experts in the field.

I have found that the temps play a really big part of a snake's overall health, and the UTH is critical to have on the right settings. I also agree, the probe goes UNDER the substrate on top of the glass directly on top of the glass in the middle of the UTH. I keep my thermostats set at 87° (per Chip, he is very knowledgeable about UTHs) which makes the top of the substrate on the warm side about 85°. Too warm of a UTH and you can harm your snake.

[cobra314]

So how thick is the aspen layered?

[smigon]

So how thick is the aspen layered?

It is totally up to you. I personally do about 2" since almost all my kiddos like to burrow, and when you spot clean you just grab the soiled clump of aspen and toss in another handful. Every few months I do a total change out of the cage, but I think 2" is good.

[cobra314]

Ok. I put a Jump Start Heat Mat Thermostat on my UTH. The temp on the glass is 89 degrees. I have 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inch of aspen on it and the temp on top of the aspen is 79. Is that where it should be or should I take some out to get it to 85?

[RedCloud]

Ok. I put a Jump Start Heat Mat Thermostat on my UTH. The temp on the glass is 89 degrees. I have 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inch of aspen on it and the temp on top of the aspen is 79. Is that where it should be or should I take some out to get it to 85?


I don't know about other people, but I keep the temp on the glass at 84-85ish cause my corn sometimes digs under the aspen and rests on the glass. Secondly if he's just eaten I wouldn't fuss too much with the aspen unless he's digested. I'd just take the thermostat down a notch.


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[Nanci]

I think I'd take it down to 84-86, too, on the glass.

[cobra314]

Ok. I will adjust it

[cobra314]

So far so good. (Hope I don't jinx it) He ate Friday evening and has kept it down so far. More updates to come

[RedCloud]

So far so good. (Hope I don't jinx it) He ate Friday evening and has kept it down so far. More updates to come


Yay glad he's doing alright! See any movement or poops yet? I always take poops as a feeding gone well!


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[dave partington]

Yay glad he's doing alright! See any movement or poops yet? I always take poops as a feeding gone well!


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Poop burritos had me concerned when this cornsnake fever madness was new to me as well.

[diamondlil]

Fingers crossed for you....

[ashleynicole]

Well I was always told you know a regurge by the smell but if Im wrong then im wrong. And yes ive only ever had the one regurge but my husband said our hognose regurgitated once as well and he said it was pretty bad smelling also

I hope your snake continues to improve.

[cobra314]

No regurge. No poop either unless he dropped it off on one of his forays beneath the aspen.

[RedCloud]

No regurge. No poop either unless he dropped it off on one of his forays beneath the aspen.


Hmm. Well I'd say good thing there been no regurge but were not completely out of the fire until there's a poop xD fingers crossed!


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[RedCloud]

No regurge. No poop either unless he dropped it off on one of his forays beneath the aspen.


Also, Petsmart (IMO) isn't really the best place to be buying reptiles/fish from. If I remember correctly, I bought quite a few fish from them a while back and had 0 luck even though my husbandry was spot on. Then again it could have been Petco, but all chain stores tend to have kinda crappy animals. If this guy ends up regurging again even though (as far as we can tell) you've done everything perfectly, I would return him and buy a corn from a reputable breeder. The only thing I use chain stores for is mice lol And only when it's an emergency cause they mark up their prices SO high. Just out of curiosity, how much did you pay for your corn?


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[cobra314]

I got this guy from VMS. I know that it was the temperature issues since this guy has not regurged since I fixed it and he is very healthy. My previous ones were from Petsmart and seeing how all of this has happened I know that the problem with them was the issues with temperatures also. I thought that my temps were spot on, but it was the issue of having the temp at the glass vs on top of the substrate.

[MysticExotics]

I got this guy from VMS. I know that it was the temperature issues since this guy has not regurged since I fixed it and he is very healthy. My previous ones were from Petsmart and seeing how all of this has happened I know that the problem with them was the issues with temperatures also. I thought that my temps were spot on, but it was the issue of having the temp at the glass vs on top of the substrate.

I'm glad to hear that everything appears to be all good now!

[cobra314]

Update: My guy is doing great now! He has kept everything down, had good BMs, and has gained 5 grams!! Thanks to everyone for all of the assistance!

[Chip]

Great news!

[hypnoctopus]

That is excellent to hear.

[drybgerg]

Awesome!! Good news!

[RedCloud]

Update: My guy is doing great now! He has kept everything down, had good BMs, and has gained 5 grams!! Thanks to everyone for all of the assistance!


Glad to hear!


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[smigon]

That's what we like to hear! Yay!

[cobra314]

Chester likes dinner time!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ogpnRFQ7Gec&feature=player_embedded

[cobra314]

ogpnRFQ7Gec&feature=player_embedded

[hypnoctopus]

When I saw that you replied to this thread, I was afraid it was going to be bad news. Glad to see he's eating so well.

[cobra314]

Further update. When I received him he weighed 40 grams. He is now up to 53!!

[Nanci]

Great news!