Feeding problem

[Manie]

Hey there i just want to know i am new in the game i have 2 small corn snakes they are 2 month old and they havent eaten yet is that normal

[axis1]

hi manie!

Welcome & congrats on your little sneaky ones!

But to help out on a problem, I think some more info is needed, for example: how long have you had them? Have they eaten before? Are you feeding them separately? What are you trying to feed them (pinkies, fuzzies, etc.)? What's the exact size & weight of your snakes and the food you're trying to feed them?

You get the idea.

In any event, nice to have you!

[Manie]

I have them for 2 days they did not eat before there weight is 4g im feeding them seprate i want to feed them pinkies

[cinnabunbun]

That's a bit too soon to start trying feed them. You need to give them time to adjust to their new surroundings. Try giving them a couple more days to get use to their new home, and dangle the warmed pinkie to entice them to eat.

[Manie]

Thank you very much i was just scared they will die can you maybe tell me the correct temp was the cage must be

[jagodzinski]

You want a gradient - a warm side and a cool side. The warm side should be warmed with an "under tank heater" which you can find at a petstore. You want one that will cover about 1/3 of the viv's floor. However, the under tank heaters can get very hot and cause dangerous burns to your snake, so you need to control them with a thermostat. Here is an inexpensive one that I and many others use: http://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S

The warm side should be 83-87 degrees (Fahrenheit) and the cool side should be about 70 degrees. This is the temperature measured on the floor (not the air temperature). You can measure it with any probed thermometers from the petstore or a handheld laser thermometer.

Also, you mention that you feed the snakes separately, but are they living separately? Corn snakes should never be cohabbed as it is not natural for them and even possibly dangerous.

When you get cornsnakes, they should be left alone for 4-5 days with no handling. Then you can start feeding them.

I strongly recommend that you do some research on here since it seems like you are a new owner. This is a great thing to read: http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28341


Welcome to the site! And congratulations on your new snakes. Best of luck and please keep us updated with any other questions.

[Dragonling]

Yikes, at 4g each I would consider starting off with pinky heads for the first feed or two. At the very most, the tiniest day-olds you can find. If they haven't yet had their first meals, shame on whoever sold them to you. A newbie shouldn't have to contend with trying to get new hatchlings to eat.

[axis1]

They r 4 grams, as in Recently Hatched? You may have to start with 1-day-old pinkies. Make sure they're as small as possible, soak them in warm water for awhile since baby snakes can have an aversion to the scent of a dead mouse & you might want to "brain" them first (gently puncture the skull of the pinky so that some brain fluid seeps out, which may work as an appetizer on your snake's sensors). Also, to aid in digestion, some people with hatchings make slices in the bodies of the pinkies with a razor, which can actually get messy!

Also, you might want to put your snake and its prey in a small container that is secure and keeps shut, like a small Tupperware tub (the smaller the better but of course your snake has to be able to swallow the pinky comfortably in it). Place the container in a dark place, like a dresser drawer or a cabinet and leave it alone for about 20-30 minutes before checking).

There are other tactics if your snake still don't make a grab for the pinky, like offering the head of the pinky first. While some of this seems unpleasant, if you love your snakes like I do, you'll do whatever you have to to get them to eat. I had two hatchlings who refused to eat (I still have the third who's actually voracious and never refuses food even when he's ready to shed!) and I went so far as to get the shedded skins off of lizards and scented pinkies with them, unfortunately to no avail but others swear it works. I even force-fed one after he refused all food for almost 3 months before he finally passed. But if you get to this point, make sure you view ways to do this on YouTube first! It might be nature's way of selecting the hardiest snakes only, who knows. This is the one negative of breeding, for me anyway, just the high chance of having hatchlings who won't eat, no matter what!

But if you asked the question here, on this forum, you are probably like most of us and you'll try everything you can to get them to eat!

Good luck and keep us posted!

[axis1]

BTW - I agree 100% with what Dragonling said! I truly hope you didn't actually BUY these snakes like from a Petco or any pet store, because selling babies who haven't eaten IS totally unethical! And besides that, it sucks!

Just sayin.

[daddio207]

Thank you very much i was just scared they will die can you maybe tell me the correct temp was the cage must be

At 4g and 2 months those snakes need to eat soon. If they don't eat on their own ASAP then you might have to take dramatic actions to save them.
We need a lot more info though. Give us background, setup, temps, etc..

[axis1]

Hi manie!

Any luck yet?

Just curious. I know how frustrating it can be to get small hatchings to eat! Sometimes I think I should have my head examined just for taking yet another chance at having more hatchings with a missing component from their feeding response (my Lilly is currently gravid and I have her lay box all prepped for installation as soon as she sheds!). But one thing I did notice about hatchlings: once they start, they seem virtually INSATIABLE!

Good luck & keep us posted!

[Manie]

Hey there no luck yet still trying every 3rd day or so but they are still moving very stong

[axis1]

Have you tried some of the tactics used by more experienced members and breeders here? When I got really desperate and my hatchlings past 10 weeks without eating, I resorted to force-feeding, but not without watching like 10-15 videos on "how to" which I found on the web. Unfortunately, 2 out of 3 of my babies didn't make it and while I was devastated by their loss, I believe if I had exercised patience between feedings, maybe one of them MIGHT have made it. It's a tough call and once you realize that there is no "right" or "wrong" way to do things, and as long as you proceed with caution and guidance of those who have been there, then the risks are definitely worth it as it is WAY better to TRY to save them proactively than to just stand by and watch them perish! Just one opinion. But whatever you do, my thoughts & prayers are with you!

[Nanci]

Here's the big list of non-feeder tricks (http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131573).

[axis1]

Wow!! Thanx a bunch Nanci!! I need to keep that handy for myself also!!

(BTW - I noticed in the video that when tease- or slap-feeding, you touch the snake's neck and not its face! Go figure! And thanx for NOT using a live pinky! While in some cases it MAYBE necessary, I'd rather NOT see it! Also makes me wonder WHY you had to actually advise others NOT to brain or slit a live pinky - you don't have to answer that either, btw, as I am aware that there are some on this planet who were better off just NOT being!)

Thanx again! You are the BEST!