Mite problem on my hands :(

[rayray]

Well, last night when I went in to get my corn out to handle him for a few mins like I usually do after 2 days of waiting after being fed. I noticed some small lil black bug crawling over his head. I then proceeded to pick the snake up and found more as a few mins went past. :shrugs: :uhoh:
I've searched this forum for many ways to treat mites but..I just wanted to know what works the best. I called a local feeders supply and asked a guy my friend bought his snake through and he suggested mite-off. He said its a spray and it should work good. But ive seen provent a mite and ...black knight stuff,.... I just wanted to know what exactly I should do to treat this problem. :nope: :awcrap: Thanks

[Joejr14]

I used Sevin Dust without any problems, but a few people on here dont think it's a good way of treating for mites.

I'd suggest doing a search, as there were just two threads on this discussion within the past two weeks.

[rayray]

I did a search and found this thread...http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10847&highlight=mites+treatments

I'm gonna try and do whats in corncrazy's second post on here and see if that works but im still open to any suggestions from people on how to treat them. :( I see that dish washing liquid is mentioned in that post and i have..dawn dish washing liquid, I also see that olive oil is used on the snake and vasoline is used to put on the cage. Im gonna wash the deli cup ive been feeding him in and put him in there while im looking around and cleaning his viv. I'm gonna get started on this soon cause I don't want this being a huge problem and big infestation.

[DAND]

Snake Mites
Mites are ectoparasites that subsist on blood. They are host-specific, which means that they only feed on one type of animal. Snake mites will not affect lizards, nor will they affect humans or other household pets like cats and dogs.

Mites can be identified as tiny black dots, much like a speck of dirt. However, unlike dirt, mites MOVE and will burst with a small red smear when squished against a hard surface (the remnants of their last meal). Mites can often be spotted crawling around a snake’s back or head area and on cage walls. For every mite you can see on your snake, there are likely dozens more that aren’t visible, that are hidden while feeding under your snake’s scales. These resilient parasites are commonly known as the “plague of snake keepers”. Really, with sound treatment and quarantine practices, this shouldn’t be the case.

Snake mites have been known to transfer disease in snakes, much like mosquitoes can with humans (malaria) and with dogs (heartworm). If unchecked, mites on just one snake in one terrarium can multiply geometrically and establish themselves in an entire collection of several terrariums and dozens of snakes in a matter of a week or two. This is a problem that is unique to snakes in captivity. Wild snakes are able to keep these parasites in check through shedding their skin and leaving most mites behind. On the other hand, captive snakes are forced in close quarters with their shed skin and mites, thereby facilitation reinfestation.

Mites will eventually overrun a snake in captivity to the point that their host becomes irritated, mildly anemic and therefore lethargic. Infested snakes are often found to soak for extended periods in water in a vain effort to drown the mites on its body, only to be reinfested once it emerges. Snakes in this situation will seldom eat, or even refuse to eat altogether, due to stress and discomfort.

Why Nix?
Nix was designed to treat human head lice and their nits (eggs). The one characteristic that separates the Nix method for treating snake mites from other mite remedies is its effectiveness at killing live mites AND mite eggs. All other mite remedies to my knowledge do not destroy mite eggs. As such, I have found the Nix method to be extremely effective at eradicating serious mite infestations. I even know of a pet store manager who sells several commercially produced mite remedies, yet uses the Nix method on imported snakes arriving at his store. Another pro to using Nix is economics. Around $12 will produce 4 litres of solution – much more than the largest private collection will ever require.

There exists a popular reptile care site on the Internet that discusses the toxicity of Nix, but in the two cases cited, Nix was spread over the infested snakes in full concentration. Common sense should dictate that reptiles and amphibians coming in direct contact with any fully concentrated chemical that does not occur in their natural environment would yield deleterious, if not downright fatal, results. The use of Nix discussed below involves a diluted solution (1 part Nix to 68 parts water) that has never produced adverse reactions in any python or boa in my collection over the course of 6 years. In fact, some snakes in my collection are proactively treated every 6 months as they make appearances at semi-annual reptile shows and I am not willing to risk the chance of mites from other exhibitors making their way into my collection. Even routine treatments on these boas and pythons over the course of several years have yet to result in any negative effects.
Materials
• Spray bottle. Preferably one that has never been used, or at the very least, one that has never contained harsh chemicals and has been thoroughly rinsed.
• 56 g (59 ml) bottle of Nix. I have only ever found this one particular size of Nix, which can be sourced at most drug stores and some pharmacy sections of grocery stores for anywhere from $6-$12.
• 4L (1 Gallon) jug of distilled water. Distilled water should be used to extend the shelf life of the solution. With distilled water, the solution’s effectiveness is expected to last up to 12 months as long as the solution is stored at room temperature and in a covered box (light breaks down the active ingredient found in Nix). Although, with one treatment and sound quarantine practices, the first treatment should be all that is necessary.

Creating the Nix Solution
• Pour the Nix cream into the 4L jug of distilled water. Nix is a fairly thick cream substance, so it may take a couple minutes to transfer as much of the cream into the jug of distilled water as possible.
• Replace the cap on the jug of distilled water and shake until the Nix cream is evenly distributed throughout the water. Again, this may take a few minutes due to the thick consistency of Nix.
• Pour the Nix solution into a spray bottle.

Eradicating Snake Mites
• If snake mites are only found on one snake or only in one snake enclosure, it is wise to conclude that mites have infested ALL snakes and their enclosures that are contained within the same room. Mites may have also transferred to snakes housed in another room by “hitchhiking on your hands or clothes. Therefore, absolutely all snakes and their terrariums should be treated to ensure 100% effectiveness.
• First, remove the snake from the enclosure and place in a Rubbermaid container. Spray the snake liberally with the Nix solution. Do not avoid spraying this solution on their head, eyes and heat pits – in fact, this is where mites commonly hide so spraying the head area is essential.
• Remove all substrate from the terrarium and throw away. Do not leave the garbage bag containing this old substrate anywhere in the house.
• Spray the entire enclosure, inside and out, including all cage furniture (branches, hide boxes, water bowl, etc.) and glass viewing area. Make sure that all corners and crevices are well covered with Nix solution, as this is where mites and their eggs are often hiding. Even spray the outside back of the cage and a 2-foot perimeter around the cage on the floor. The Nix residue that forms after drying is thought to even be effective at killing mites hiding out elsewhere in the room that may attempt to re-enter the snake cage.
• Replace the substrate with paper, preferably paper towel, as it is easy to spot mites on this. It is essential to use paper until you are absolutely certain that full eradication has been accomplished. I suggest waiting 3 weeks after the last live mite is spotted before using non-paper substrate.
• Remove water bowl from cage and replace, filled with water, 24 hours later. This ensures that the Nix solution is not washed off the snake by soaking in the water bowl before the active ingredient has had a chance to destroy all mites hiding under its scales.
• Return the snake to its enclosure and spray it, the cage, furniture and paper one more time.
• When the snake defecates during treatment, remove the paper and clean the messed area as usual, but be sure to re-spray the cleaned area and new paper with Nix solution.
• Repeat in 5-7 days twice, for a total of 3 treatments. With all likelihood, the last live mite will perish within a few hours of the first treatment, but repeating treatment is good practice in case the outbreak is severe and mites are able to re-enter cages.
Preventative Maintenance
Any snake entering a collection should be quarantined for 2-3 months, ideally in a completely separate room from where other snakes are housed, but at the very least in a separate cage. It should be assumed that any new snake has mites, regardless of how well respected the previous owner or pet store is. I have personally been let down on several occasions by leading breeders in our hobby, and from personal friends. It is my experience that employing the “better safe than sorry” approach is of paramount importance in ensuring mite breakouts never occur.

Given the above assumption new acquisitions, in addition to their cage and cage furniture, should be treated with Nix solution 3 times (one full treatment every 5-7 days). Same should hold true when a snake enters your colony for a breeding loan, even if it is your own specimen that was lent out and is returning. As previously mentioned, it is also wise to treat snakes that attend shows, where other exhibitors and spectators may have mite infestations. With the large number of people that handle your animals, or even just touch the enclosure in which your snakes are housed, the chance that a mite is hitchhiking on at least one of these snake enthusiasts at the show is good. Don’t become complacent and cut corners in this area, or you may find yourself right back where you started.

Cage furniture and substrate purchased at pet stores can also serve as mite vectors and should be treated with caution. Mite-free substrate can be purchased from pet stores that do not carry reptiles, from a livestock feed stores, or from landscape centres. Newly purchased cage furniture should be sprayed liberally with Nix solution. Highly porous cage furniture (wood hide boxes, branches, etc.) should be soaked in a 10% bleach solution for a day, then rinsed thoroughly, sprayed with Nix solution, and allowed to dry for a week.

[joypassion]

I did a search and found this thread...http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10847&highlight=mites+treatments

I'm gonna try and do whats in corncrazy's second post on here and see if that works but im still open to any suggestions from people on how to treat them. :( I see that dish washing liquid is mentioned in that post and i have..dawn dish washing liquid, I also see that olive oil is used on the snake and vasoline is used to put on the cage. Im gonna wash the deli cup ive been feeding him in and put him in there while im looking around and cleaning his viv. I'm gonna get started on this soon cause I don't want this being a huge problem and big infestation.


I had a HUGE mite problem about a week ago. I tried everything from mineral oil, to provent a mite and even sevin dust. None of that worked for me-it actually made him worse off. First he was all sticky and shiny from the mineral oil then he got really dry looking from the sevin dust. After using sevin for the second time, he stopped moving on me and started breathing funny. I eventually had to break down and take him to the vet. He gave me a solution to mix with water and soak him in and spray in his tank. So far that has been working.
I would definately do your research on Sevin and any other product before use. How old is your corn? Mine is just about 6 months and he couldn't handle it. Good luck!

[rayray]

my corn is about 6-7 months old. Thats what i was told when i got him.

[joypassion]

That is about the age of mine. I would be careful with any oils and sevin dust. My corn didn't react well to sevin and his breathing got really bad and oils seem to make him sticky and not want or be able to move around much.

[DAND]

Since you are talking about just one corn, you could soak it, remove any bedding substrate and replace with paper towels. Prior to putting the paper towels in clean the tank/viv. The use of paper towels will allow you to see if there are any mites present. I'd suggest using the Nix treatment if the problem continues.

[rayray]

well, today i soaked my cage and the snake. I put peaches in a old..glad ware container and poked holes in the top lol i think i put like 30 holes in the whole container and lid. But i went and got some stuff yesterday called Mite-off by zoo-med.
So i hope that works if it dont ill use nix and just soak the whole stuff again. Thanks for all your replys and thanks dand for the nix mix solution thingy lol.

[KatieL]

I'm a HUGE fan of DAND's Nix solution treatment. I use it on all my snakes, and even on the little 4 month old it had no side effects what so ever.

Most importantly, Nix kills the eggs of the mites, as well as the adults, unlike many "pet store" mite treatments. And ONE treatment is all it took on my first horribly infested snake and her cage. I really think the Nix treatment is the way to go.

Well, thats my two cents :)

[rayray]

lol, ill use the nix treatment if what i have doesnt work.Since i used a bleach water mix to soak my cage and everything, i was thinking should i wait for it to air out to where it wouldnt or doesnt smell like bleach anymore?

[Spirit]

http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showpost.php?p=139157&postcount=23

From this thread.

http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19346

[KatieL]

I just rinse it a bunch of times until the bleach smell is gone, then towel dry it, and reassemble it. it works for me. :)

[rayray]

o ok. Thanks :)

[rayray]

It's been about 4-5 days since I posted about my peaches having mites. I'm happy to say that the mites are gone and I haven't seen any on him or crawling around. I don't know if there are any eggs but I highly doubt it considering I soaked everything and use the Mite-Off. Thanks for all your help. :cheers:

[DAND]

Glad to hear it. I'd suggest keeping an eye out for them in the near future though. Just because you soaked the tank and snake doesn't mean they're gone. There could be some elsewhere around. You may have to do it all over again if there is anymore still around.

[rayray]

We'll Im gonna keep an eye out for them and make sure that it doesnt happen again.

[raven2tongue]

so, this is my first post and i'm having to type with one hand because i have a
5 month old corn, Prophecy, sleeping in my sleeve...awesome.i'm a new snake owner and i am truly happy i made the decision to do so. yet, since i got him (or her-anybody know a simple way to learn the sex?) about a month ago, we have been waging war on these little black-speck, blood-filled bastards. Yes, MITES. it is a long story and a whole different fight i had with the guilty pet store, but now Prophecy and i are on our own.
i have spent the last hour or so reading the relative threads and wow...there is a great bunch of people here with a lot of helpful knowledge. and i don't want anyone to have to repeat themselves, but i still find myself feeling a little lost. i have been steadily treating snake, cage, furniture, and ANYTHING that looks like they could hide there with Reptile Relief spray and washing and scrubbing and so on. about the beginning of last week, i thought we were clear, no mites in sight and Prophecy and i rejoiced....and then i saw a speck moving over his eye...and that's now where they are nesting....(please fill in your own choice of expletives here). Right up under her eye scales, where my reptile relief is NOT to be sprayed....
so, that's where i'm at.I'm pretty sure i'm going to have to go with this Nix treatment and more patience. i'm just getting really annoyed watching these free-loaders agitate my new friend.Besides that, he's in great shape. Good appetite and very chilled out. If i get no replies then i'll know Nix is the way to go....or noone read this. either way, thanks to everybody. this site is a huge help.
thanks again!
-mike

[kimbyra]

Hi!
YOu might want to try olive oil, just around the eyes where the reptile relief wont go (I like reptile relief). Just a suggestion. I hope it all works out. :cheers:

[The Nothing]

i prefer ZooMed Mite-Off because it is completely safe, even in the eyes

[raven2tongue]

Cool. Kimbrya and The Nothing-Thank you very much, guys.

I like the reptile relief, too, but it is frustrating that it can only go on the body of the snake AND only kills adult mites. It's been doing that great so far, but ONLY killing adults doesn't really solve the problem.
Hmm...Kimbrya, i might try this olive oil thing. Does that just smother the mites without hurting the snake or something else? Or maybe just pick up some of the zoo-med Mite-off...Nothing, does that work on eggs and larvae too?
Thanks again. I think i can solve this if i just make a treatment choice and stick to it.

[The Nothing]

don't have the bottle with me at work to say, but i don't remember.

Pro-vent-a-mite, while not to be applied to the animal, is a great deterant against mites. great to use on the cage, substrate, and areas around the enclosure.

If you have a mite issue, you do need to treat more than just the animal. Mites can move 14 feet an hour, and will not necessarily stay on the animal... its best to treat as much of the room as possible.

[kimbyra]

I'm not sure about the olive oils effects... I but I heard its pretty good. It might be more of a deterent. I would try the Zoo Med stuff, if it is okay around the eyes. If you do, tell us how it works.

[raven2tongue]

right on. i'll go out this week and get some of the Zoo-Med stuff. I'll let you guys know after a while if it starts looking better.14 feet an hour, that's crazy. considering how small the room is i keep him in, i better treat the whole thing as infested.
thanks again you guys.