• Hello!

    Either you have not registered on this site yet, or you are registered but have not logged in. In either case, you will not be able to use the full functionality of this site until you have registered, and then logged in after your registration has been approved.

    Registration is FREE, so please register so you can participate instead of remaining a lurker....

    Please be certain that the location field is correctly filled out when you register. All registrations that appear to be bogus will be rejected. Which means that if your location field does NOT match the actual location of your registration IP address, then your registration will be rejected.

    Sorry about the strictness of this requirement, but it is necessary to block spammers and scammers at the door as much as possible.

baby corn hasn't eatin 4 weeks! HELP?

snakecharmer99

New member
I have two baby corns in a 10 gallon set up 86 on warm side 80 on cool side!
my black and white eats like clock work every week! has even shed once. My amil on the other hand ate once on christmas eve a red and hasn't eatin since! I am stressing! I have tried everything braining, chicken broth ,live food, leaving in a brown bag all day. The snake just lays there with the food! I have tried to intice it as well. I think it is getting smaller. I should add that the temps were cooler until a week ago 75 on warm side and 70 on cool side I upgraded the light to get more heat. still not eating. This is my first snake experience! Any help would be greatly appriciated!!
 
First of all, cohabbing (2 snakes in one tank) is usually recommended against as it can stress out the snakes, not to mention fear of cannibalism (yes, it's been known to happen). This could be the reason one of yours is not eating.

Second, the temperature fluxes could also be attributed to your snake not eating. It should be mid 80's on the warm side and mid 70's on the cool side.

I recommend separating their housing and deal with the temperatures and hopefully this will fix your nonfeeding problem.

good luck.

EDIT: I also wanted to add that it's a good idea to not stress out the nonfeeder by attempting to feed too often. Wait 4-5 days and then introduce your snake to a very warm pinky in a seperate tub. Make sure he/she cannot escape, cover with a towel or put in a dark place for 30 minutes without disturbing it or walking by and causing floor vibrations. If it still hasn't eaten in 30 minutes, carefully place the feeding tub back in the 10 gal, (maybe rewarm the pinky) and leave overnight. (It may be good to try this AFTER you have moved out the other snake so that your nonfeeder won't be disturbed)
 
I purchased these snakes from a pet store where they were housed together and they said they should be okay as babies but should think about seperating later. Does it make any difference that they were already together?
 
No it doesn't, and young snakes are even more prone to cannibalism than older ones, though it can happen no matter what the age.

However, the big thing in this case is the stress. Snakes aren't social animals, they don't live together in the wild. When they're forced to cohab in captivity it can cause them a lot of stress which can result in them not eating.

If you think about it, snakes are pretty vulnerable while they're digesting, it takes awhile and they're dependent on the ambient temperature to help them break up the food. If they sense a potential threat in the area (another snake) they'll just skip the meal in order to be able to better protect themselves.
 
I have to agree with Anne, your snake is most likely off food because of either stress or the temperatures.

If your other snake is eating fine, then that narrows it down to a matter of stress. Of course, it still doesn't rule out the temp problem, as bad temps can stress them out, too, and your amel may be more sensitive to temperatures than the black and white(I assume you mean an anery?).

Your best bet is to separate them. Buy another 10 gal (or, even, a 20 gallon Long, since they need at least that much room as adults) and move one of the snakes over to the new tank. Also, snakes need belly heat more than they do ambient temperature, so a heat pad might work better than a light. As well as this, a heat pad can be on at all times, whereas a light has to go off at night. Lights are always nice to stimulate a day/night cycle, but corn snakes are primarily crepuscular/nocturnal, so lights aren't completely necessary like they are with, say, an Emerald Tree Boa or a Bearded Dragon (both diurnal species in one way or another).

Anyway, concerning the temps, you need to find a better way to heat the tank. Something that won't radiate out so far. If you go for a heat pad for the second tank, get one that will cover about a third of the tank's bottom, but no more than half. Always have a thermostat on your heating elements so they don't get too hot, as this can and will stress and even kill your snake if not controlled. Heat pads can get to be over 100*. The first week I had my first corn, I didn't have a thermostat, and when it finally arrived, the temperature directly on the heat pad was 97*!! NEVER trust a heat pad to be "just right" unless you have a thermostat and a thermometer on it... However, once under control, I believe heat pads to be the best option for snakes. You don't have to fuss with wattage or have a separate day light and night light, and you only need one heating element.

Get your snakes separated, and they'll both start being more active, too. Once they're separated, give both snakes (especially the amel) a few days to cool down before handling and feeding them again so they can settle into their new routine, just like you would when you bring a new snake home.
 
Try a live pink once a week. If you want to separate them (although I'm not going to say that's for sure the source of your feeding problem), try a plastic shoe box... really cheap. :D

DSC06808.JPG



DSC06809.JPG
 
Back
Top