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Soliciting comments on our force-feeding, please

glenhead
10-15-2009, 03:52 PM
We have four recalcitrant little @#%%%@s who refuse to eat on their own. Since we would really prefer they not die (especially the $400 one), we're force-feeding them. We've found a couple of things that work, but are always willing to make changes if there's a better way (safer or more effective or easier or whatever). For those of y'all with more experience with force-feeding corn snakes, please chime in if you think we're doing something wrong or have a tweak. This is going to be a long post to give details.

We'd given all four of these guys many attempts with F/T and live pinkies, scented, blah blah blah blah, so we're no longer in the "will they eat" stage. They were losing some serious weight. We've been exclusively force-feeding them for a couple of weeks to put some weight on them, and plan to continue for at least another two or three sessions before we try them on their own again. We feed them every four days. Three of them have shed, and they're all gaining weight.

I'd had experience and success in the '70s with eye-dropper feeding newborn pygmy rattlers (strained beef heart baby food), but we decided that going with mouse or rat parts would give them the smell and taste of food and perhaps transition them more readily. We'd had Mediterranean geckos recommended, and are still on occasional prowl looking for them, but they're apparently in idiotically short supply in our neighborhood. We'll try the gecko-scented pinkies when/if we get one.

We had a couple of frozen rats from when we used to have a Brazilian rainbow boa. Nothing we have anymore is anywhere near big enough for them, so they're just taking up freezer space. Their tails were a good diameter, so that's what we used first. The tails went down nicely with a bit of butter-lube, but we only had enough for one feeding session. Perceived advantages: high calcium from big bones, probably a decent load of fat, at least a bit of protein from the skin and little bit of muscle, easy to manage, more than one meal per tail. Disadvantages: rats are expensive if you're just using the tails!

We have Bob, our big amel, who eats jumbo mice or small rats, and now have three other adults that eat adult mice. We've Manxed all the mice (cut the tails off at the butt) and used the tails, cut in half and tied together with a hair. Again, lubed with butter they go down semi-easily. Perceived advantages: pretty much the same as rat tails, and we go through adult mice more quickly than we could rats (although I just bought nine frozen small rats for Bob, so that'll give us enough rat tails for a couple of weeks). Disadvantages: one snake per tail, so the tails go very quickly at four tails every four days.

Lesley has found a good technique for getting the front half of a pinkie down the hatch, using a chopstick as a pushrod. She'd started with toothpicks as pushrods, but the chopsticks support better and there's no fear of skewering the snake from through penetration. She tried doing a whole pinkie (using a toothpick) for the three snakes that are big enough (one of the four is nine inches long and a bit under five grams, so she only gets half a pinkie anyway), but the whole pinkie rumples and is too sloppy/floppy to work. She hasn't tried a whole pinkie on a chopstick.

So what do y'all experts think? As I said, we have sufficient rat tails for about four more feeding sessions, so we're good for a couple of weeks at least before we have to go back to pinkies. Anything we should be doing differently?

Thanks for your advice!

Cat_Eyed_Lady
10-15-2009, 04:09 PM
I have it written on here in an old thread but I will try to resay it here for you :)

I first hold the snake head in my left hand between the thumb and forefinger... Then I use a blunt end of a toothpick to get the mouth open... I used 1/2 pinks at a time... head part first and would push that down with a blunt metal rod, nothing sharp! and after it worked it down to the stomache, I would force the second 1/2 down the same way. After enough feedings where they seemed to be gaining weight nicely, I would then try a 'cooked' pinkie. (cooked as in put into almost boiling water for a few seconds and cool down to about 100F and try to feed, alone, in the dark and covered and left alone for at minimum of an hour. If that didnt work.... would force feed the next feeding and then try the above again... usually took a few trys but it did eventually work for almost all of them.

I have never fed just tails to any snakes.... in my mind there just enough there to do much good.

If you look or do a search there is a very large thread on force feeding and many ways to do it :) if you cant find it, let me know and I will look for it for you :)

Good luck!

Cat_Eyed_Lady
10-15-2009, 04:11 PM
OH! btw..... dont dont dont try to force feed a whole pinkie! Most of the time you just end up splitting the guts and getting blood and gut goo all over you and the snake and every where else close LOL I tell you from experience.... I dont have a weak stomache but this about did me in and sent my mother running for the bathroom :D

cornspot
10-15-2009, 05:27 PM
I've used mousy "ham hocks"--break or cut off the thigh of a large mouse (then you can feed the rest of the mouse to soemone that takes that size). I use the thigh itself, small end first, to open the mouth & then push slowly down with the handle part of a sexing probe.

There is also a device called a pinkie pump. They are a little pricey & I have never used one, but it could be an easier option if you are having to FF several snakes.

Susan
10-17-2009, 03:17 PM
I prefer to force-feed whole pinks of the appropriate size, but I also try to start doing that before the hatchling is so far gone that my technique is too stressful. Once I open the hatchling's mouth (fingernail works well), I insert the pinky, nose first, as far in as I can. With the fingers that are holding the snake's head, I hold the snake's mouth closed with just the right amount of pressure to prevent the hatchling from spitting out the pink. I then gently release slight pressure while pushing the pink further in the mouth, trying to simulate how the snake would swallow the pink naturally. As long as the pink is freshly thawed (or even a thunked live, and yes, I have used live pinks in forse feeding upon rare occasion), I don't have too much trouble with them "exploding". It really doesn't take too long for the pink to be entirly in the hatchling's mouth, at which point, I gently massage the pink further down the hatchling's throat. Often, the hatchling will start moving the pink down on it's own once the pink is about 1/2 inch past the skull. Making the hatchling move through "tight" fingers helps the swallowing along.

Sometimes, I've tried teasing a problem hatchling for awhile before having to force-feed that meal, so I may have to use a pair of thumb forceps to grasp the pinky on the lateral sides and to push the pink down the hatchling's throat (also helps alot after the pink explodes in those cases). The forceps I have are very narrow so I am able to use them to literally push the pink down past the "initial spit-it-out point" weithout any apparent damage being done. One of these days, I'll try to get hubby to video-tape my techniques and post them on my website as they seem to work very well for me. I force-fed a ghost motley for over a year before it started to eat when teased, and have 2 that are currently still being force-fed (the 3rd, my pewter female, is eating on her own now).

diamondlil
10-18-2009, 12:53 PM
I found blending chopped up adult mice in a food processor then freezing the resulting paste in ice-cube trays worked well for syringe-feeding. As for force-feeding, I found half a pink worked best for me but it's great to read other methods that work too.

ghosthousecorns
10-18-2009, 01:09 PM
I am not going to comment on technique as I will no longer force feed any snakes. I have tried in the past to keep snakes alive by force feeding but never really had any success stories. I feel it stresses both them and me and if they don't have a will to live I would rather not use them as breeders. Not sure what I would do if a super rare morph hatched for me and wasn't eating, but when it comes to the more common morphs there are enough good eaters to work with :)

KINGSRULE
10-19-2009, 05:15 PM
As bad as this sounds I have one who wouldn't eat. So I had to force feed. I actually ground up a mouse in a blender and used a eye dropper to feed it and he is a year old now and very healthy!

I know that some here may that is sick or cruel to do that to the mouse but I had to save the snake.


Sorry guys/gals