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Respiratory Infection and Petechiae

ssssinful-1
12-19-2009, 11:29 PM
I have debated whether or not to post this, but I am hoping others may learn from what I have experienced.

I purchased several months ago- my adult male butter motley. He is gorgeous! I held him in the store for quite a bit- let him slither around me and looked him closely to make sure he seemed in A+ condition. The 411 was that a local breeder traded him in because he didn't need him for any projects. I was told he has been 1 FT adult mouse a week and there have been no issues with feeding. Fantastic! I'll take him. :)

I went home with my purchase and got him squared away in his new terrarium. My set up is fine for corns... UTF, aspen, hides, fresh water, digital thermometer.

After a few days of rest, I tried to feed him. He refused. But I thought, ok give it some more time. His weight was fine and the change of environment may have thown him off. By the end of the first week, I noticed some wheezing and popping. By the end of my second week, I was at my exotics vet to have him looked at because it was sounding like a respiratory infection (RI).

3 weeks of injections... Baytril and Twin Pen every 72 hours. Things were looking up for the lad. Before Thanksgiving he ate a mouse... I was thrilled!

A quick check up at the beginning of December and he checked out just fine... still sneezing occasionally, but was told that like humans when we are recovering from a cold it can take some time to get the residual gunk out.

Yesterday morning, I noticed the popping and wheezing was back. He had labored breathing, was rigid and flighty when he was out of the enclosure. Yesterday evening, I came home from work and he hadn't changed positions from the morning. Body buried in aspen- head held out. This time his mouth was gaped. Not good... not good at all.

This morning I was in the vet's office at 1030. The vet could tell right off that he had respiratory issues again. Popping, wheezing, sneezing... and then some small petechiae that was on the right side of his body (pics posted later). This time she wanted to do a culture and analysis to see what we are up against because the 2 IM/SC antibiotics he was given should have cleared up the nasties. Results next week. We didn't leave without getting a .84 IM injection of Ceftazidime and a 228.00 vet bill. :) Now I am hoping and praying that the RI hasn't gotten so bad that he has gone septic.

I will keep you all posted with any changes... and of course get a photo or two of the petechiae on here. Interestingly enough, it is just two spots... little red warning signs. Petechiae in snakes was something I didn't find much on, but if noticed, it is recommended that you see your vet immediately.

I found some useful 411 from the Merck Vet Manuel concerning RI and other bacterial infections involving reptiles.
http://www.merckvetmanual.com/mvm/index.jsp?cfile=htm/bc/171407.htm

The best Christmas present for me would to see Quilla make a full recovery.
Carrie

ssssinful-1
12-20-2009, 01:12 AM
Here are some photos of the areas my Vet identified to me as petechiae.

Teddy Roosevelt
12-20-2009, 01:26 AM
God... I can't even imagine trying to find those on a red snake.

bekers71
12-24-2009, 09:23 PM
Sorry to hear about all the trouble. I don't know you nor how familiar you are with RI in reptiles, so please don't take offense to the questions I ask. I just want to try and help you out. What are the temps on the warm and cold side? What is the humidity?

ssssinful-1
12-24-2009, 09:36 PM
Sorry to hear about all the trouble. I don't know you nor how familiar you are with RI in reptiles, so please don't take offense to the questions I ask. I just want to try and help you out. What are the temps on the warm and cold side? What is the humidity?

No worries, I don't mind questions.

Warm side is 80-82
Cool side is 75-77
Humidity 30-35%

I was going to put him into brumation, but figured I would wait until he was more healthy.

Good news is that he is doing much better. Quilla's results came back from the vet and so far he is negative for aerobic bacteria on his C/S. He has also eaten 2 fuzzies. :)

bekers71
12-24-2009, 09:44 PM
No worries, I don't mind questions.

Warm side is 80-82
Cool side is 75-77
Humidity 30-35%

I was going to put him into brumation, but figured I would wait until he was more healthy.

Good news is that he is doing much better. Quilla's results came back from the vet and so far he is negative for aerobic bacteria on his C/S. He has also eaten 2 fuzzies. :)

Glad I didn't offend. :)

OK. You need to get the temps up to 90. Raising the temp will simulate a fever and help him fight the RI. Keep the humidity to about what you have it at. Don't put him in brumation, he could very well die. Don't worry if he refuses food, if his weight is good it wont hurt to skip a few meals. When you do feed, try to give him smaller meals like a hopper or pinkie. Hope your guy does well. :)


Forgot to mention don't worry about the petechea. I see scales on snakes with that all the time. Most likely they get it from rubbing some thing or bumping things. Not a health issue that I'm aware of in snakes.

ssssinful-1
12-24-2009, 10:06 PM
Thank you for the 411. That is why I am here... to learn from others here. I will bump the heat up to 90. Brumation will be put on hold. His weight had slipped a bit during all this... not emaciated, but to where I thought that feeding would help his immune system fight what is causing him his issues. He went from 425g to 412g... which isn't a huge jump, but when he deficated, it was becoming more water than solid.

My vet was concerned about the petechiae. She noticed it right off. So, that got me all worried.

Susan
12-26-2009, 01:25 PM
As Becky mentioned, increase the warm side temp. Considering your location and the season, I would think a warm side that is normally around 85-87F is more in order for a healthy snake. One with an RI should be at 90F. I don't know what your ambient house temp is and am assuming (yes, I know what that makes me) it's a bit chillier than during the summer. I always have to readjust the settings for my snakes during the winter to keep the temps high enough, and I don't have snow outside.