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Health Issues/Feeding Problems Anything related to general or specific health problems. Issues having to do with feeding problems or tips.

i need some advice help :(
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Old 01-13-2010, 02:03 PM   #91
diamondlil
For the mouse, yes it is possible but without the right sort of milk (from a vet, special powdered replacement milk) and care (stimulating it to defacate, otherwise the guts will be blocked) it will suffer and die, so killing and freezing it for your snake could be kinder in the end.
You are very brave to admit you have made mistakes, many people wouldn't. Try to get a thermostat for controlling your heating issues, it really is important for your snake. Maybe your snake isn't as strong as others that would be ok in this situation, but that means your snake needs the best conditions you can give so it has a chance.
 
Old 01-20-2010, 01:24 AM   #92
DarkSmoke
Quote:
Originally Posted by Asbit View Post
I understand your money situation with having just moved and you concern over there only being one choice of vet for snakes in Malta.

To me the biggest problem I can guess with out being there is the up down temp in the warm side. With out consistent temps in a safe range you are going to have regurge problems. Your pet stores may tell you they have no problems BUT unless you are in there every day and on feeding days and have taken pics of the head markings so that you know exactly which snake you are looking at each time, you can never really know for sure what is happening in the pet store.

They could be offering food and the snake could be refusing, they could offer and the snake could eat and regurge, it could regurge off and on like yours has, the snake may die and be replace with a similar looking snake and they don't mention it as it is not good for business. The reason I suggested a vet is because often, not all the time, pet store reptiles are not cared for properly and become sickly before they are sold. Hopefully this is not the case with your snake.

If his warm side is getting as high as 91 that will easily cause a regurge, or cause the snake to stay on the cool side a lot even when it should be digesting and that as well may cause a regurge, esp after so long, no heat means longer to digest, to long to digest means regurge.

You have two priorities right now with regards to your snake.
1) get him back on regurge protocol and follow very strictly(see below)
2) save money get a thermometer(if you do not have a digital one) and get either a rheostat or a thermostat, and save for a possible vet trip

Put him back to the begining of regurge protocol and be VERY VERY diligent about not moving up in sizes until he has kept down at least 6 meals of each small size.

So wait 10 days! Feed a pinkie then wait 7 days to feed the next pinkie. After he has kept down 6 pinkie meals with no problems move to 2 pinkies, still 7 days apart. He is in a danger zone right now, so you need to go very slow!! After 6 meals of 2 pinkies, then move to 6 meals of fuzzies, spaced 7 days apart, then 6 meals of hoppers, 7 days apart but if he regurges during any stage of this again, start over and really consider the vet trip.... his life may depend on it.

EDIT: ORDER some NutriBac from Kathy Love's website, it will do wonders to help restore the natural balance in his stomach and enable him to start digesting properly again. This is the exact page on her site where she adveretises the NutriBac. http://www.corn-utopia.com/Corn%20Ut...cornsnakes.htm
just a small question since im going with your plan. since i feed live and the petshop have different sized of pinkies , should i pick the smalles pinkies?
 
Old 01-20-2010, 08:12 AM   #93
Asbit
Yes you definitely need the smallest size of pinkies because this snake has had so many regurges. May I ask again why you feed live and not frozen thawed??
 
Old 01-20-2010, 11:20 AM   #94
DarkSmoke
Quote:
Originally Posted by Asbit View Post
Yes you definitely need the smallest size of pinkies because this snake has had so many regurges. May I ask again why you feed live and not frozen thawed??
ok. probably this thread is gonna change again to people telling me the 100benefits of feed f/t or how cruel i am but im gonna answer you anyway.
1. my snakes never gave me reason not to , they kill and eat instantly especially my ball python.
2. i love to see how they hunt their prey and and eat it.
3. i don't know in america and in other countries , but here i was grown in a country whenever a mouse is seen in the streets or in a home there's a lot of shouting and the next thing the mouse is dead by someone who's not scared of them so i never heared concerned people on mouse being hurt.

no more points come in my mind other then those , i watch my snakes every second while they eat so in case of an emergancy i throw the mouse out. Literaly. it requres less work, its more intresting to see and yeah i don't believe in less and more pains since humans don't even know if a lobster is hurt while boiled alive.
 
Old 01-20-2010, 11:29 AM   #95
diamondlil
If you can find a litter of 'reds' (day-old mice, around 1g) I'd suggest you buy the whole litter and freeze them for your corn. Then you will know that you can first try 1/2 for the next few feedings. Then if there are no regurges try 1 whole red.
Buying fresh live pinks means you may not find the right size, and for your corn that could make a big difference.
 
Old 01-20-2010, 11:33 AM   #96
Asbit
Thank you Damondlil, that is exactly why I asked him about his feeding live. I too feel that his snake needs 1/2 of a 1 gram pinkie(red) for at least 2-3 feedings and then if it can keep them down, move to the whole 1 gram pinkie(red). This I feel is crucial at this point for the chances of this snakes survival!!
 
Old 01-20-2010, 12:40 PM   #97
Teddy Roosevelt
Quote:
Originally Posted by diamondlil View Post
If you can find a litter of 'reds' (day-old mice, around 1g) I'd suggest you buy the whole litter and freeze them for your corn. Then you will know that you can first try 1/2 for the next few feedings. Then if there are no regurges try 1 whole red.
Buying fresh live pinks means you may not find the right size, and for your corn that could make a big difference.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Asbit View Post
Thank you Damondlil, that is exactly why I asked him about his feeding live. I too feel that his snake needs 1/2 of a 1 gram pinkie(red) for at least 2-3 feedings and then if it can keep them down, move to the whole 1 gram pinkie(red). This I feel is crucial at this point for the chances of this snakes survival!!
I agree with diamondlil and Tisha. I have some pretty strong feelings on feeding live and I'd like to say something about your desire to watch it "hunt" and your lack of concern over how the mouse's final moments are spent, but the more important reason against it right now is that your snake simply cannot handle the range of sizes you'll encounter if you buy live. A frozen mouse will stay the same size the entire time you have it... a living one will continue to grow and change.
 
Old 01-20-2010, 04:02 PM   #98
DarkSmoke
my snake was able to hold down medium sized pinkies ( i will call them since the petshop have about 5differnt sizes of pinkies ) for like 5 - 6 feedings with bed temps and then regurged when i increased the size of the pinky a bit. today i installed the thermostat in his vivarium and setted the temp to 29C (85F) and im gonna re start the regurg protocol with the smallest pinkies instead.

im concerned about something you told me Asbit,
"After 6 meals of 2 pinkies, then move to 6 meals of fuzzies, spaced 7 days apart"
after 6meals of smallest pinkies should i give him 2 smalles pinkies or increas the size of the pinkies? if 2 smallest pinkies should after 6meals of smallest pinkies switch to fuzzies like you said or bigger pinkies ?

today i called the vet, he told me he sees snakes but i have to give him readings of my temps and humidity , so it will be useless to go pay a visit cause i know his answer will be to fix my temps probably. so im retrying the regurg protocol , now with smaller pinkies and good warm side temp and hopefully on the way i hope that i can get enough money to buy a UTH and a thermostat or dimmer for the cool side too so i can get perfect temps on the cool side too. if another regurg happens i'll visit the vet cause now the answer will not be bad temps for sure.
 
Old 01-20-2010, 04:06 PM   #99
kathylove
There are some advantages to live pinks. Mainly that they can be "re-used" (frozen for later) if refused, and that picky feeders will sometimes take live when they might refuse f/t. The only real disadvantages, as already stated, is that you might have to take whatever you can find in sizes, and you can't feed half a mouse or just a mouse head unless it is dead. Live pinks usually cost more here, in the U.S., too.

In your case, because of the regurges, your snake really does need to eat only half, or just a head. More will probably cause more regurges. You may be approaching the point where you need to feed egg yolk via syringe or eyedropper, with or without NB, for a while, and avoid whole food. Each regurge brings you a little closer to the point of no return, and death.

Since you can't get NB there, you might try some human probiotics from a health food store. It usually comes in a powder, or capsule with powder inside of it. Nobody seems to know how much, if any, probiotics for different species will work (I have asked vets, but they don't know either). But they can't hurt, and MIGHT help.
 
Old 01-20-2010, 04:14 PM   #100
diamondlil
You should be able to get grapefruit seed extract from any health food shop to try a drop to a litre of water and use in the drinking bowl.
 

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