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Health Issues/Feeding Problems Anything related to general or specific health problems. Issues having to do with feeding problems or tips. |
Problems with hatchlings that have stripe genes
08-11-2003, 08:57 AM
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#1
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Problems with hatchlings that have stripe genes
Just wondering if anyone else out there has had problems with offspring from strippy parents (both or one). As i have had a clutch of 22 hatch and only about 10 have fed , the others dispite all atempts refuse to eat (i am currently tryin the cool them down for a couple of weeks method) They have so far refused to eat pinks /live and dead/ pinks scented with lizard/toad/frog/rabbit, headless pinks / pink bodies and even the time honoured tradition of a car drive didnt work (although it did work on two of my miamis :-)
So i was realy just wondering about other peoples experaince with corns wiht the stripe gene
Thanks
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08-12-2003, 02:22 PM
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#2
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you could try "tease-feeding"
hold the pink with forceps and get the snake to strike it out of defense. Honestly, I have only had this method work a time or two, but it's worth a shot.
What this about a car drive?!?
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08-12-2003, 06:57 PM
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#3
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Re: you could try "tease-feeding"
Quote:
Originally posted by elrojo
What this about a car drive?!?
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I have read about some people who as a last attempt take their stubborn feeders on a drive and they actually do eat.
I've never had to try it before, but I suppose I'd try anything if I were trying to get hatchlings to eat.
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08-13-2003, 06:34 AM
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#4
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The car journey does seem to work well , however it does seem to have the side effect that once they have eaten any extra stress can make the little guys regurg and it by no means gets them to eat aftre that (usually another car drive) and the longer the car drive the better i would say it needs to be a good 30 mins plus then just pop them in a deli cup and cross your fingers - try both live and dead pinks
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08-13-2003, 01:57 PM
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#5
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"I'm sorry, I can't come to the phone right now, because I'm taking my new snake on a car ride"
I'm not questioning whether this works, but it sure seems that we go to a lot of extremes to get a snake to eat.
Oops, I gotta go catch some crickets to feed the lizard I keep to rub the pinkies on in case I have a hatchling that won't eat anything else.
Mark
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08-14-2003, 06:12 AM
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#6
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sounds like you dont agree with perservering wiht the difficult ones - in some ways i agree - if they die they will be out of the gene poll hence a stronger gene pool and easier snakes to feed and rear in the future - however one day you'll hatch a snake you want to keep and will need to go to soome lengths to keep alive - after all if people didnt i dont think we would have blood reds etc and to add to that we as breeders have a responsibility to provide suitable housing and food items to the animals we breed. After all the corn snake hatchlings didnt "want" to be captive bred they had no choice so we are responsible. Plus the practice wiht the "not so important" hatchlings make success with others all the more easy. Its really about futhering herps as a whole :-)
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08-14-2003, 11:27 AM
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#7
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Quote:
sounds like you dont agree with perservering wiht the difficult ones - in some ways i agree - if they die they will be out of the gene poll hence a stronger gene pool and easier snakes to feed and rear in the future
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That is easy to say, unless you have a >$200 corn morph that you have painstakingly raised for months or even years!
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08-14-2003, 01:11 PM
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#8
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My issue here is with feeding hatchlings that you are planning to sell. I have been burned too many times by people selling hatchlings that are poor eaters. Didt they just go to all extremes to get to get that snake to eat? Then I end up with a snake that will eat occasionally, or only eat if I go to all of these ridiculous extremes. It's like people are so worried that they make every possible penny out of their clutch that they don't really care what the buyers will go through.
I would rather have a snake die than to sell it to someone and knowingly make them go through the headache of having a problem feeder. There are the people that sell snakes that they know are non feeders at a show and lie to you and tell you they are great feeders. Ever run into this type?
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08-14-2003, 02:54 PM
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#9
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I personally try really hard to get any non-feeders eating. I sell them, as well. The only thing is, I refuse to sell any non-feeders until they have started feeding on their own (in the normal way - no car drives or anything), and have fed at least 8 times this way. I also keep complete records on them, and I let the buyer know that the snakes started out as difficult feeders. Typically, I do not make any money on the non-feeders because I end up feeding them so much, and I also spend a lot of time on them. If I am not successful with them, then I adopt them out for someone else to try...
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08-14-2003, 06:11 PM
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#10
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I, too have bought my share
so I don't sell anything unless it's eaten it's first three meals with no problems. One regurge, one skipped feeding, and it's "off the shelf" until things straighten out. If things are really tough going, I put the little snakes in the freezer. Actually, I MAY try for months with a pinkie pump, etc, if the specimen is special. Still, I hate to breed that animal if it didn't make a 100% recovery on it's own.
So I'll walk the line on this one. In a perfect world, if they gave a bit of problem feeding, they'd be frozen right away. No bad genes to pass on, fewer problems for future generations. But sometimes you just gotta try everything in the book!
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