Coral Snow Corn Not Eating

Look, I don't know what your problem is. I have five others from you. The first two were raised on liner and are doing extremely well. The other three the same way on cage liner and doing extremely well too. Liner is easier to clean than aspen bedding and since you don't have coverage for death by impaction from aspen bedding. I don't want to take any chances with this one dying like the other did

Originally Posted by SerpentLady4

Look, I don't know what your problem is. I have five others from you. The first two were raised on liner and are doing extremely well. The other three the same way on cage liner and doing extremely well too. Liner is easier to clean than aspen bedding and since you don't have coverage for death by impaction from aspen bedding. I don't want to take any chances with this one dying like the other did

Can I ask what cage lining is? Is it like newspaper?
Thanks
John

I cannot see the picture for some reason, but from the sounds of it, you have an undertank heater AND an overhead heat fixture, is that correct? (In a 10 gallon tank?)
If so, I can tell you right now, that is too much heat and is most likely the reason your baby is not eating for you.

Saying that Don is not helpful sets off warning bells for me, because he has been nothing but helpful to me, and I have bugged him a few times for information.

Terri has also offered you very good information, and it is very nice of her to offer to drive to you to help. She is a well-known, well-respected member of the Cornsnake community as well.

If you are not going to be open to suggestions on proper care, from people who know what they are talking about, then you have no one but yourself to blame if/when that baby dies.

1. Don Soderberg is the most patient of teachers, and I can't imagine the lengths you have gone to to cause an alienation between you two.

2. Terri offering to come help you sort out your set-up is invaluable. I can assure you that she is not a serial killer, and you would be perfectly safe in allowing her to help you. To turn down an offer like that is to turn away a resource that cannot be found on-line, or in a book.

3. Yes, you have the right to set up your snake in the manner you choose, and it is true that many people choose simple newspaper for substrate for the reasons you outline. Still- the baby is not comfortable, which is reflected in its refusal to eat. Since we don't have a photo of the set up, I would suggest that to make the baby feel safe, it would be best to offer several tight, dark hides, like toilet paper or paper towel tubes, squashed flat. Toothpaste boxes. Things like that. If you have store-bought hides, you can fill those with crumpled paper or shredded paper. Then, if you put silk or plastic vines on the sides and the floor, she should feel a lot safer. I think others have covered the heating/temp measuring subject well.

Originally Posted by zorro

Can I ask what cage lining is? Is it like newspaper?
Thanks
John

From looking at the OP's avatar pic, I'm guessing AstroTurf.

Originally Posted by MysticExotics

Saying that Don is not helpful sets off warning bells for me, because he has been nothing but helpful to me, and I have bugged him a few times for information.

I've been bugging him with questions since at least 1999. To say he is helpful and patient is an understatement.

And I also agree that your husband shouldn't be worried about a woman coming over with great experience in the hobby to try to save your pet.

I would not have suggested force feeding. A one month fast is alarming for a hatching, but not time to force feed -at least on a snake that has voluntarily fed previously. You will typically really set them back by doing that. Once you know that the cage and temp gradient is right, try offering boiled, scented, live and other tricks, but force feeding is a last resort.

Jennifer, since you sent the picture to me, I cannot show it to everyone without your prior consent. The picture shows less than 1/4" of sand in the bottom.

May I post the picture on this thread?

I also re-read my post and see that you have only had it four months. That's still a dangerously long time for fasting in such a small snake. Regarding force-feeding, that is something nobody but experts should do. As others have cited, often when you force-feed, the stress is akin to taking one step forward by getting calories in the snake, but two steps back from the stress. If this snake pukes that pinky, your world is about to turn upside-down in the realm of stress for you. The other reason force-feeding was not indicated for this snake is that you have not yet stabilized the hide and cage temps. Puking this mouse is almost a foregone conclusion.

We are here to help you. Me, I give up, but everyone participating in this thread (and others who WILL) can help you. But they can only help you if you at least try to follow advice (and accurately report cage conditions).

May I post the picture of your cage?

If aspen impaction worries you, why not just feed in a separate enclosure? I keep all my babies in aspen, they eat in deli cups. Sometimes they have to be left in the deli cup covered and overnight if they are shy.

I have spent some time talking on the phone with Don about his terrazzo snakes and he was nothing but helpful to me, even though I wasn't even a paying customer. If you won't let him show us the picture and you won't let someone come over then how is anyone supposed to help.

Also force feeding is a LAST resort, can hurt and traumatize a baby snake and put it off from food.

I have a tiny baby hide that is extremely tight and dark. Right now the bedding will arrive on Tuesday and the UT on Wednesday. The one I have now bit the dust and doesn't warm up at all. Before it bit the dust the temperature inside their hide read between 80-84. The rest of the cage is holding at 82

My heat sources are both attached to a temperature controller that is set for between 81-84 and will.shut when set temperature is reached

Can Don post the picture of your viv, please?