Heating / Temperature regulation questions

Hi all. We've had our hatchling/baby okeetee corn snake, Zaya, for 4 days now and I'm having a hard time regulating the temperature in her 20 gallon long terrarium. I know that there should be a temperature gradient and that the temps should be between 75F and 85F, or thereabout.

We bought the Zoo Med snake reptihabitat kit which comes with a mini deep dome lighting fixure with a 100W daylight blue reptile heat bulb and an undertank heating mat rated for 10 - 20 gallon terrariums.

The instructions for the heating mat said that the mat can be placed on the side of the tank if the terrarium is being situated on furntiure so, since it is on my son's old dresser, that is what I did. I have a feeling however, that that is probably not a great idea as it doesn't seem to keep that side of the tank very warm, although it is warmer than the cooler side. Should I try to peel it off and place it under that side of the terrarium? I don't want to burn down the house, but I don't care if it just discolors the finish on the dresser.

I was also wondering if perhaps the mat just isn't big enough even though it came with the kit.

My other problem in the light fixture. It heats very efficiently, too efficiently. If we left it on too long, sitting on top of the screen, it would probably cook Zaya. So we have to keep turning it on and off which I assume isn't ideal since the temperature inside the terrarium is constantly changing. I did order a Zoo Med lamp stand that should arrive today so that the lamp won't be sitting right on top. A friend also told me that I could just buy a lower wattage bulb.

Finally, I am confused because I read somewhere that there should be a bulb that emits UVB for the health of the snake, but this bulb that came with the kit doesn't appear to do that. Do I need a basking/UVB Bulb?

I apologize for what seems like a long list of questions! I will really appreciate any help with the heating mat, light fixture, and type of bulb questions!

Thanks!

I swear those kits are designed to make you think you're saving money when you end up spend more in the long run. A heat mat on the side is almost useless since heat rises. Overhead lighting is extra drying, since it heats the air above the substrate even more than the substrate itself for the same reason.

Most of us just use a heat mat underneath, but you'd need the next size up to just use that by itself. As long as there is an air gap on one side of the mat, it will be fine on top of wooden furniture, so you'd need to use something to prop the tank up like rubber feet on the corners. You'll be fine using both if you raise the heat lamp especially. Most heat sources should ideally be on a thermostat to control the temperature.

Most common captive snakes do not require any UVB as they are either nocturnal or crepuscular (the latter, in corns' case).

The Zoo med reptile therm under tank heater comes with plastic sticky feet that go an the corners of the bottom of the tank. https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Repti...Zoo%2Bmed&th=1

This is the thermostat I use to regulate the mat. I hot glued the wire to go down the corner of the tank. https://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTP...oil+thermostat


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Thank you for your replies. I think that I will buy the next size up heating mat. I put the original one under the tank yesterday and this morning the area above it was only 70 degrees F.

You'd be better off placing the heat pad under the tank rather than the side. It probably won't hurt furniture, but if you're concerned about it, just raise the tank up a bit with some of those self adhesive stick on furniture pads. You can find them almost anywhere and they're usually made of plastic, rubber or felt. I have a few under my tank for the very same concern, and so far so good.

You should also be using a good thermostat as some of those heat mats alone can hit 120 degrees or more.

The heat pad will not heat the entire cage, not even 1 side of it. It's only designed to heat the bottom of the tank where the snake actually lays. So when taking any temperature readings, don't bother taking the temp reading near the top of the cage, rather the temp of 85 should be directly inside the snake's Hiding Place. The other side of the cage can be room temperature, so long as you don't let the room get too cool. 70 to 75 is ok. If the room gets cooler than 70 especially in the winter months, you might use a 2nd heat pad on the cool side and just set it for 72. That's what I do. It rarely comes on, but on the really cold days my house can get fairly cold.

Corn snakes really don't need extra light and for the most part they do not bask. Although all snakes do at times, some more than others. Normal room light is ok for a corn snake. Those cage lights such as your's are really better for some lizards and animals that require much higher temps. All Light creates heat, and with both the heat pad and the light, you run the risk of getting too hot, and drying out the air, causing also a low humidity problem.

Having said that, I do also use a light over my cage, but it's not the type you describe. The light I use is well away from the cage, it creates no additional heat. I also have it on a 12 hour timer. 12 hours of simulated daylight and 12 hours of darkness. A day/night cycle helps the snake's biological clock and metabolism stay in check. Corn snakes sometimes roam at night, so 12 hours of darkness is just as important as 12 hours of light.

I have seen folks place the cage near a window and get the same effect with a normal day night cycle which is fine, so long as the sun does not shine directly on the cage or the snake.

I have a 1 1/2 year old Lavender Corn. Currently in a 20 gallon terrarium. I have two UTH pads one cold one hot underneath his hides. I plan on upgrading his hides and terrarium to a 40 gallon size. I have noticed recently that the temps have varied dramatically in his hides and when i check he is wrapped up in the wire and probe. Is there a safe adhesive tape that can be used to secure the temp probes to the bottom of the glass on the terrarium???? Any advice??? This never used to happen when he was younger but as he has grown i find it more difficult to keep the temp probes secure. I find myself checking the cage all the time to ensure the sides arent too hot or cold.

I have no wires and probes in my cage for that very reason. There is really no need for it. You can affix the thermostat sensor directly to the heat pad under the tank, and take your temp readings inside the tank with an infrared hand held thermometer. I have been doing this for years.

@Karl_Mcknight-

When you affix the thermostat sensor directly tot he heat pad under the tank, what to you set the thermostat to? In other words, how hot must your probe be directly on the pad in order to attain 85 in the hot hide itself?

Thanks

you set it to whatever temp you have to set it to in order to get 85 inside the hide box in the cage. I actually set mine to about 91 degrees. By the time the heat travels through the glass, the carpet and the bottom of the cave, it ends up being 85 inside the cave.