CornSnakes.com Forums  
  Tired of those Google and InfoLinks ads? Register and log in!

Go Back   CornSnakes.com Forums > The CornSnake Forums > Husbandry and Basic Care
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Mark Forums Read

Notices

Husbandry and Basic Care General stuff about keeping and maintaining cornsnakes in captivity.

So how fast do your corns digest their food?
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-17-2003, 10:06 PM   #11
Chip
88 IS TOO HOT FOR CORNS!

J Daniels, please listen up. I know you can jump start their metabolism for thereapy, but even 85 is the upper limit for full time temp. Years ago I kept mine too warm for quite some time b/c of regurge problems, etc. with the best of intentions (they do puke when too cold) and met a breeder of Okeetees (from Okeetee) who has become my mentor as far as husbandry is concerned. He actually has sold many of his to the Love's and other breeders (and me). The first thing he did was put a digital therm in my cage and say "86 is too hot for corns." 78 to 82 became my range, excluding a hot spot they could get out of.
The snakes (which I feared were dying) shaped up completely with no change except for that and bottled water.
 
Old 04-18-2003, 01:08 AM   #12
13mur 6
Hmm... not too sure I'm understanding what you're saying. My temps are: 90 degree hotspot under a hide using a UTH, and a 75 deg cool side near the water bowl. I think I heard somewhere that a 90 deg hotspot is very much needed by corns to reach a "fever" state when needed.

Temps too high I think cause a rapid increase in digestive function, and speeds up to the point where the food is digested but not absorbed and simply passed (this is not good). And temps too cool will cause regurges.

I think as long as you have a the proper thermocline, your snakes will find the temp they like regardless of high/low temps (for example the hot side could be 100 deg, and the cool side 60, and as long as the cage is long enough, there should be ample room for your snake to find a comfortable spot).

-13mur 6
 
Old 04-18-2003, 01:49 AM   #13
Chip
I needed a comma there, between "range" and "outside", I'll edit and fix. My point was, 86 being ambient cage temp, is too high. The temps I mentioned are suggested air temps, not one side of the cage or other's surface temperature gradient. I confused myself when I went back and read that...sorry. I was trying to say that in a large cage, a hotspot (be it a light pad, etc.) is fine if the overall temps stay in the low 80's, high 70's.
I was dealing with snakes in rubbermaids with flexwatt and a thermostat. At 86 I was keeping my snakes too warm. They see days that warm here, but I was keeping them at that temp at all times except brumation. I don't suggest it. Especially just to get a snake to "poop more."
 
Old 04-18-2003, 02:52 AM   #14
13mur 6
Oh okay, now I get it. Yep, 86 ambient air temp is way too high (heat stroke and dehydration anyone?).

-13mur 6
 
Old 04-18-2003, 10:50 AM   #15
J_Daniels
OK now I'm a bit confused. I unfortunately don't own a digital or laser thermometer, but I do have three thermometers in the aquarium. All are down at the substrate level, one on the cool end, one in the middle, and lastly one on the hot end near the basking spot (this one is a combination thermometer/ humidity guage). My cool end reads (these temps are with the heat lamp on) 80-83 degrees, the hot end usually around 90 with around 40-50% humidity.

There are hide spots in all three "sections", but my snakes most always stay in the hide spot on the hot end.

Also, can anyone tell me if my humidty level is good? With the light on, the humidity is usually 40-50%, and levels off at around 80-86% about an hour after the heat sources cut off.

Thanks for the advice everyone!

JD
 
Old 04-18-2003, 03:12 PM   #16
Chip
Wink If your water bowl isn't steaming, your humidity is probably fine.

If the snake sheds in one piece and there is no moisture on the cage sides, you're probably within the acceptable range. Florida is humid, but there are corns here in the Carolinas in some pretty dry feilds.
As for thermometers, get a digital indoor/outdoor at your local hardware store. The therm tells two temps, put it in the cool end, and the probe in the warm end. Around $16, and is SO much more accurate than the mercury ones, or worse yet, the tape type that stick to the glass. Those are almost worthless. Too affected by room temperatue.
 
Old 04-19-2003, 01:31 PM   #17
fateamber
I love the vampire chronicles, and mostly the films but i think the queen of the damned is too short. The vampire Lestat and the queen of the damned should of been seperate films but i love the soundtrack! I was going to call my royaL python Enkil to go with Akasha but i don't think it suits him so now i'm thinkin of calling him Lestat.
Also sorry but i have to ask, J_Daniels is your username anything to do with Daniel Johns from silverchair?
 
Old 04-20-2003, 11:24 AM   #18
Skye
A good guide to whether your humidity is ok is to how the snake sheds. You seem to have a middle to high humidity level, and so I would imagine that you aren't experiencing any problems.
As to temperature, IMHO, I would say that 80-83 for the cool end is a little on the warm side. The temperature range that we provide goes from about 70-95, and you would be surprised how much time they spend on the cooler ends sometime. Of course, this is just what we have experienced, and it would be interesting to hear other people's view on this.
Skye
 
Old 04-21-2003, 09:09 AM   #19
blito
my snow corn, Chione, is about 10 months old an bout 24" long.
It eats 3 pinkies every 7-10 days and deficates fter 3-5 days.
It`s kept in a 3ft glass aqurium with correct vivarium lid, heated by lamp and an undertank thermal pad. Temps are measured 1" from the substrate and are 85 hotside and 70 coolside. During the day, chione prefers to hide on the cool side, only going to the hot side when the lamp is off. Chione seems perfectly happy with this arrangement although the humidity is low causing sheds to come off in several peices.
in fact, i fed her on saturday.. well tried but she wasn`t interested so i put the pinkies in her tank (on paper towels for added security - dont want her eating the substrate) - then i went to the pub.. came home to find the pinkies gone and 2 nice peices of shed skin waiting for me
Personally i`m finding that its best only meddle with the snake the minimum amount - its a semi-wild creature that knows how to look after itself just as long as the tank is setup up correctly and food and water are provided!


edit - apologies for the bad spelling - the A key on my kebord is about worn out!
 
Old 04-21-2003, 12:35 PM   #20
J_Daniels
Quote:
Originally posted by fateamber
Also sorry but i have to ask, J_Daniels is your username anything to do with Daniel Johns from silverchair?
Actually, it's my name, Jason Daniels. But, hey, thanks for asking!
 

Join now to reply to this thread or open new ones for your questions & comments! Cornsnakes.com is the largest online community dedicated to cornsnakes . Registration is open to everyone and FREE. Click Here to Register!

Google
 
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Killing mice DustinWaller Husbandry and Basic Care 156 06-05-2009 12:24 PM
HOW fast to baby corns grow??? Harpy Health Issues/Feeding Problems 7 06-24-2003 09:25 AM
3 corns one cage? clumsly Husbandry and Basic Care 9 06-20-2003 11:55 PM
will corns eat dead food? 2Corny Health Issues/Feeding Problems 6 06-01-2003 08:36 PM
I have 1.1 Green Tree Pythons and I thought they were frustrating but these corns... Sweet Pickle Health Issues/Feeding Problems 4 09-17-2002 08:44 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:04 AM.





Fauna Top Sites
 

Powered by vBulletin® Version
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Page generated in 0.04586411 seconds with 10 queries
Copyright Rich Zuchowski/SerpenCo