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Health Issues/Feeding Problems Anything related to general or specific health problems. Issues having to do with feeding problems or tips.

Overweight, Gravid, or Healthy adult.
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Old 08-12-2017, 04:17 PM   #1
Overweight, Gravid, or Healthy adult.

Hi recently purchased a 4-5 year old female amel corn snake.
I'm wondering if she might be overweight, I haven't had an adult before so I'm unsure if this is normal or if she is on the heavy side.
I question her weight only because there is some skin showing through the scales on the back half of her body, and it's pretty even from the middle of her, back to her tail.
She was fed by the previous owner three days ago, and she was brumated last winter I believe? But has not been bred, and the previous owner did not mention anything about her having laid any eggs.

If she is simply heavy, what should I do as far as feeding and exercising?
Also if she is gravid, would a 2 year old male be too young/small to introduce to her?

I will try to add a couple photos shortly.

Thank you!
Old 08-12-2017, 04:42 PM   #2
Here are a couple pictures, not the best quality but I couldn't get a good picture of her outside of this box.

Thank you! Would appreciate any and all advice.
Old 08-12-2017, 04:43 PM   #3
When it comes to males, there's really no such thing as too small. I tested a few male yearlings of mine who were around 100g this spring just to see what kind of response I might get and the larger of them seemed eager to pursue my ovulating females.
Old 08-12-2017, 04:52 PM   #4
Thank you dragonling!
I've heard as far as females go and breeding, there is a 333 rule right? 3 feet long, 300g, and 3 years old. I have a 2015 female aswell, and a snow female that.. looks like she is around 2 years old?
Should I go by the 333 rule, or are there any expectations to it?

Considering breeding the fallowing next year
The amel female above (or may breed now if she is actually gravid)
A 2015 normal female het diffuse, het lava
And a snow who is about the same size as the 2015, unknown hets.
Old 08-12-2017, 10:26 PM   #5
It's hard to say for sure, but she does look like she could be gravid. You'll find conflicting opinions on the "rule of 3s," though most people seem to like parroting it because it's easier than explaining the nuances of selecting females suitable to breed or expecting a new breeder to find a local mentor.
Old 08-13-2017, 10:10 AM   #6
She's overweight. I'd feed her a medium adult mouse every two weeks. I would not brumate. I'd get her out and active at every opportunity if you intend to breed next season. Stair climbing and swimming are good exercise. Starting after the first of the year, hopefully she will be leaner and more muscular. You can test her muscular strength by holding her, hanging head down, near her tail. A strong snake will easily be able to pull herself back up to your hand.

Don't cohabitate her with the male! When you are ready, after January 1st, you can start introducing her to the male once a week. If they don't breed within 30 minutes, separate and try again the next week. The female generally will not breed when blue. The male generally will. I usually save her most recent shed and put it in the breeding bin with them, with a light misting of warm water on the sides of the bin and on the shed. If there is a great thunderstorn, I'll change the schedule and put the pair together on that evening.

Once they breed, put them back together every two to three days until they have bred five times or the female refuses twice in a row.

IMMEDIATELY remove her large water bowl and replace with a small one she can't clutch in. Give her a lay box. Get your incubator up and running and stabilized. Plan out what your going to use for an egg container, and purchase incubation medium if you need it. HatchRite must be fresh and unopened. Continue with a gentle exercise routine: swimming if she is relaxed, otherwise just walks, or crawling over your hands on the floor.

I start feeding weekly, a small to medium adult mouse, at this time. After her pre-lay shed put her back with the male one more time. She should refuse him. If she breeds, follow the every two to three day sequence again.

After she lays, check her belly by gently feeling, for remaining eggs. If she is empty, she can have a small hopper or a couple fuzzies right away. She can have a full-sized meal on her next scheduled feeding day. She will most likely be blue again at this point, but it's okay to feed her if she'll accept it.

I generally feed post-lay females weekly until they regain the weight they were before breeding. About the time the eggs start pipping, expect a second clutch. Prepare as you did for the first. She may lay a second clutch, or may not. Some people think you can encourage/discourage double-clutching by feeding more or less after the first clutch.

Good luck!

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