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Health Issues/Feeding Problems Anything related to general or specific health problems. Issues having to do with feeding problems or tips.

Baby Corn Snake Won't Constrict
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Old 06-02-2018, 01:20 AM   #11
pretends2bnormal
Glad it worked for you! I would guess she'll figure out how long it takes for it to kill it after a few times. As she moves up in sizes though, I would encourage you to consider giving frozen thawed or at least pre-killed to her in case she wraps badly even just once. There are too many horror stories for my comfort to take the risk of it isn't necessary (like it is for now with one of my ball pythons). It only takes one time for a bite to an eye to cause enough damage to be deadly.

She's a beautiful little noodle. and I'm glad you did what you could to he gentle with the pinky as well. I was pretty confident it was for the mouse not the snake.

Your method is a little different than mine, but it's not important if it worked. I usually don't move it side to side, rather just pull further away in front of them so they need to come forward further. As long as you have strong interest in following a bit and the quicker tongue flicker, it usually works.

It definitely doesnt work for all snakes.. I have a young extremely skittish eastern chain kingsnake who will defensive strike nonstop if I even lift a hide to feed.. maybe 30 strikes later will she actually grab the prey (frozen ofc) and only when put right in front of her, otherwise she tries to flee out of the tub. She's close to 30 grams. What works for her is leaving her hides (terra cotta pot saucers) in place, and making a dip in the bedding and wiggling until she grabs it. She always pulls it straight under the hide to eat. It's pretty funny really.

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Old 06-02-2018, 01:25 AM   #12
pretends2bnormal
And fun fact! I learned on one of the forums I'm on not long ago that more recent research shows that in many (maybe all?) constricting snakes that it isn't them asphyxiating the prey. They actually squeeze hard enough that the pressure on the circulatory system triggers a heart attack or something like that that kills it. It was kind of neat to read, but I don't remember where I saw it from exactly..

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Old 06-02-2018, 01:35 AM   #13
pretends2bnormal
Went back to your original post to read more closely since I was tired on my first read..

Probably not great to move to rat fuzzies since young mice/rats are less nutritious due to higher fat content. And stunning rodents tends to cause higher accident risk since a scared rodent will turn to fighting back much quicker than a calm one.

I've never heard on any forum I'm on of a corn snake that was difficult to convert to frozen thawed, so if your pet shop sells individual feeders, it wouldn't hurt to give a single trial sometime. Odds are very good that as long as it is thawed right (fully and at least up to room temperature or a bit higher) a corn will take it easily.
If that fails, rather than stunned live or small size live, it would be much better to just do pre-killed.

Basically, you buy the rodent, kill it yourself (I think the most preferred method is a co2 chamber? But you can search here, I know there are posts on how), then offer immediately after it is dead to the snake. No risk of injury and most snakes will take it just the same as live if it doesn't cool down too much in between. (All of this with a corn snake or most colubrids in mind.. it can fail on some very picky ball pythons)

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