Regerg and shedding?

My anery has regerged it's meals and has just shedding could this be due to shedding?
Is it normal for a corn to regerg it meals twice in a row?
This anery is under weight and very thin.

Would it be a good time to feed it now since it has finished shedding?

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If a corn is foing into shed is it normal for it to regugitate it's food?

My anery regerged 2 times and just shed it's skin.

It's been about 14 days now without it keeping a meal down should I try and feed now that it's finished it's shed?

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Oh my. That is really not good. You need to not feed him a good 10 days. Just leave him alone. Then give him a smaller than normal mouse. How old is he? If he regurgitate again you should take him to a vet.


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He's just over 4 years old from what I was told from the previous owner.

It's been roughly 72 hours now since he was fed and hasn't regerged so that good because last 2 times he did it was the day after he ate that he regerged

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When I have had a snake regurge, the majority of the time it has been due to me missing the sign that they were in clear phase, and they regurged to be able to shed, they otherwise wouldn't have been able to get the shed past the meal lump.

It happens sometimes, it can be hard to tell on some snakes when they're in clear phase.

Follow the regurge protocol to a "T", so you do not risk more regurges, which can ultimately be fatal to your snake.

If you do not have NutriBAC on hand, I would order some. It helps their system after a regurge, and is also an appetite stimulant, which can be used on problem feeders.

MysticExotics said:

When I have had a snake regurge, the majority of the time it has been due to me missing the sign that they were in clear phase, and they regurged to be able to shed, they otherwise wouldn't have been able to get the shed past the meal lump.

It happens sometimes, it can be hard to tell on some snakes when they're in clear phase.

Follow the regurge protocol to a "T", so you do not risk more regurges, which can ultimately be fatal to your snake.

If you do not have NutriBAC on hand, I would order some. It helps their system after a regurge, and is also an appetite stimulant, which can be used on problem feeders.

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Thank you for the info.
The anery just regerged again this afternoon (4 days after feeding)

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LionessModeling said:

Thank you for the info.
The anery just regerged again this afternoon (4 days after feeding)

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Get the nutribac, follow the protocol to a T, and get the heating situation fixed before you feed again.

Also I'm going to suggest separating your snakes into separate enclosures while the one is in such bad shape.

Also, if you can, I'd at least talk to a snake vet. With the snake being thin, the problems may be due to parasites. That can also cause regurges.

I'm so sorry your snake is so ill. I'll be thinking of you and your snake.

DollysMom said:

Get the nutribac, follow the protocol to a T, and get the heating situation fixed before you feed again.

Also I'm going to suggest separating your snakes into separate enclosures while the one is in such bad shape.

Also, if you can, I'd at least talk to a snake vet. With the snake being thin, the problems may be due to parasites. That can also cause regurges.

I'm so sorry your snake is so ill. I'll be thinking of you and your snake.

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Thank you

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I talked to my friends sister who breeds and sells many types of snakes and reptiles and said the anery is going into hibernation so I put him in a container with enough substrate to burrow, a fake plant, and a dish of water and placed the container in the linen closet

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Wow, I don't know who that is, but corn snakes don't hibernate. Something is way off in the information they gave you.

They can be brumated, but they won't go into brumation (kind of a slow down but less than full hibernation) if kept at normal room temperatures. I believe that brumating your snake by cooling it right now would be a death sentance.

Your snake will not "hibernate" in the closet at normal room temperatures; but the quiet, undisturbed setting may help. Change out the water frequently. Your snake still needs a day night cycle, since they are not hibernating so an LED light (less fire danger) on a timer will be helpful.

When it is time to start feeding again according to the protocol, you need to make sure you have proper heat for digestion. Your snake will regurge again if you do not.

P.S. Your snake needs a hide box. You can make one out of a small cardboard box. If there is not enough space remove the plant. The hide is more important.

LionessModeling said:

I talked to my friends sister who breeds and sells many types of snakes and reptiles and said the anery is going into hibernation so I put him in a container with enough substrate to burrow, a fake plant, and a dish of water and placed the container in the linen closet

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No, regurges are due to either feeding during shed, incorrect temperatures (too warm or not warm enough), or there is something wrong with the snake.

Snakes brumate, not hibernate. Do NOT brumate a snake that is thin, ill and/or you do not know how to prepare your snake for brumation. There is a progression of stopping food, then, after they have fully digested, start slowly decreasing the temperature, to brumation temps.

You'll likely end up with a dead snake if you follow those instructions given to you by your friends sister.