Coral Snow Corn Not Eating

Originally Posted by SODERBERGD

I know that many people recommend putting the probe on the glass floor of the cage--directly above the UT heater, but I do not. You would have to calculate what temperature would be rendered via the aspen substrate buffer, and that could change from season to season. Therefore, as ugly as it looks, I recommend putting the probe where the snake actually is (parallel again to not having your home HVAC thermostat out on the front porch). Then, until the man-made electronics fail, your theromstat will control the UT heater to the exact temp you seek for the snake (plus or minus two degrees F. on both ends of reaction to thermostat) VS. your temp equation that has the variable of changing temps in the room. They're expensive, but proportional thermostats control exact temps via delivering the exact amount of electricity to achieve the desired temperature at the probe. The kind you use (most common in the hobby) will tell the heat tape to be ON or OFF, but it will continue to rise for a degree or two, and vice-versa, the UT heater will need reaction time to heating up again, therefore, falling one or two degrees before delivering needed heat. The thermostat you have should work well for your needs. Just remember the golden rule of temperature for snake cages. The ONLY place in the cage that matters--in the realm of temperature--is the snake's body. Since the snake desires to be hidden, you therefore control the temp INSIDE that hide. It can be two to five degrees warmer or cooler literally on the outside wall of that thin hide. Especially since your cage is on the cold floor.

Again, Jennifer, sorry to have falsely presumed you had sand in the cage. You kept saying you didn't, but I was naively believing my eyes over your testimony.

Apologies accepted,
Ok if not on top of the glass then what about right above the bedding and inside the hide won't work cause you wanted me to put a thermometer inside the hide and that is what I did

Ok I just laid down three inches of bedding and there's a thermometer inside the hide. He has two non warm hides and tomorrow I will be getting a temperature gun

Good luck. The only other thing I can offer is to clutter up the tank. I have an extreme okeetee from Don and his tank is littered with toilet paper/paper towel rolls and fake vines. It's not pretty but he seems really comfortable in it. Once he's bigger he will have more permanent hides but for not these work.

I also feed him in a deli cup not only to prevent him from swallowing substrate, but also so he doesn't get distracted and wander away from the pinkie.

His tank is cluttered Don thinks that his stomach has shut down and he is too far gone to be saved

Maybe it's time to accept Terri's offer of help.

I just spoke to Don, and he says it is probably because he isn't used to the aspen bedding and extra hides and to try again in a few days

Don wants me to feed him one day which I thought were small pinky cause that is what he told me he fed the hatchling. When I asked he said small not extra small pinks

The other snake that died is pictured on cage liner not aspen?? How could it die from eating some aspen?? Did you read the thread that Nanci has for non feeders. Good info!

I think Nanci's non-feeder info is for brand new hatchlings. If I read this thread correctly this is a snake that was eating well prior to this. There may still be info that applies, but I don't think the problem here is that the baby doesn't know food (or whatever the explanation for new hatchling non-feeders is), but rather that there is something about the environment that is causing the snake to not want to eat.

Did Terri end up taking this baby? I didn't see her say anywhere that she was going to, but from your other threads it sounded like you believed she was. I assume there were some PM's between you? Just wondering who to watch for updates on whether this poor baby makes it or not.

Yes she did, we made an exchange. Maurice has gone into rehabilitation