Cornsnake Novice - Aggressive Behavior

Originally Posted by Tracee

Just a thought... If of course you meant that you can see the lump in the belly because he is sort-of see-through, then ignore that completely!

Let us know how you get on when you try to feed him - a pinky head only! - in another 10 days. Good luck.

He is very light and see through, as the pinky digests it looks like a grey lump in his stomach... it almost completely goes away by day 3-4.

Originally Posted by keelygorski

Thanks for the advice, Charlie. My snake is light pink and white (you can see pics on my profile) so I am having a hard time to tell with the shed process. I havent handled him until a couple days after eating in the past (fed sunday, handled on tuesday). When I went to handle him on tuesday that was when he was hostile, so I left him alone and when I checked on him wednesday, that was when I saw the regurge. Since then I have left him completely alone and will be following regurge protocol. This process of owning a snake has been tough, and I have tried to do everything right. I purchased a book that was all about cornsnakes, and what they have said has been very misleading, and I think may have caused the problems that I am having. They said to handle the snake frequently and often, but failed to mention, when you just get them to be hands off for a while. So we have gone about trying to handle him often, when we probably should have left him alone. We have been hands off since wednesday when I took him out to clean the regurge, and he was perfectly fine and loving then. But I really do want to make sure I do right by him because my daughter and I have already grown so attached. Thanks again for everything. We wont be handing our baby until we complete the regurge protocol, and I will keep you updated.

Well once you see blue it is easy to spot. Actually they don't really look blue to me just dull and cloudy. You will notice first that the skin color is looking dull. then the snake will hide a lot and with mine anyway he will not crap either. Then the eyes cloud over and look opaque. The eyes then clear and in about 3 to 4 days the snake will shed. I put my wet moss in after the eyes clear. As for handling. I only handle mine about two to three times per week because he is eating or digesting for th rest of the time. I handle more now but when charlie was the size of your snake I would limit handling time to about 15 to 30 minutes.

I forgot to add I noticed you said a couple (meaning 2 I guess) of days after your snake ate. In my opinion this is to soon. I wait 4 days. I feed on Sunday so I will not handle until in the PM on Thursday. If I do not see poop I wait another day but charlie goes like clock work.

Originally Posted by charlie1

I forgot to add I noticed you said a couple (meaning 2 I guess) of days after your snake ate. In my opinion this is to soon. I wait 4 days. I feed on Sunday so I will not handle until in the PM on Thursday. If I do not see poop I wait another day but charlie goes like clock work.

Yeah, it was two days, that was what the book had said, but I am learning maybe not to trust the book so much??? Definitely glad I checked out this site, it has been very helpful.

The book was: Corn and Rat Snakes by Philip Purser

a link to the book : http://www.amazon.com/Corn-Snakes-Co.../dp/0793828805

I got that book. Well-written, but not completely accurate. I'd done months of research before purchasing that book. Found a lot of misinformation. IMO the only decent bit was the field herping. I would get Kathy Love's book.

I agree with durrn , get the Kathy Love book , lots and lots of info .

Read Katy manula and get the t-shirt too

I too would suggest getting Kathy Love's book and some NutriBac for you little one. You can order both fro her website for a very reasonable price her is the link...http://www.corn-utopia.com/Corn%20Ut...cornsnakes.htm

As well, it has already been noted that the regurge may have been caused by handleing before the meal was fully digested, generally a very good way to tell is wait a min of 2-3 days from when you fed or until the snake has pooped once for you. With small hatchlings the poop is often so small you can not find it in the substrate, so 3 days is a good rule to go by.

Better yet though, esp. now that it has had a regurge, is to clean out the viv and use paper towel for bedding. This way you will easily and quickly be able to spot another regurge if it happens again and you will also know for sure when the snake poops thus making sure you do not handle to early. I would do this until you are done the regurge protocol and have learned your snakes general digestive timing.

I would also like to point out that you mentioned your warm side is at 80, this may also have caused the regurge. The general optimum temp for the warm side 83-85 and if it was at 80 you corn may not have had enough belly heat to fully digest the mouse before it rotted in the belly. Therefor I would suggest raising your warm side temp and keeping it between 83-85, make sure you are checking it with either an infrared temp gun or a digital thermometer as the stick on strips or dial ones are notorious for being inaccurate by as much as 10-20 degrees either way (which both to cold or tow hot can cause a regurge).

Once you order the NutriBac, which is a reptile probiotic, mix some into the drinking water and then change the water daily. Then on feeding day do tow things different, get a sharp paring knife or some cuticle scissors and cut through the skin on the back of the mouse, this allows the stomach acid quick access into the mouse to aid in digestion, helping to prevent it from rotting in the stomach. The other thing you should do is place some of the NutriBac powder just under the skin of the mouse and then give the mouse to your snake, this ensures that your snakes stomach bacteria is aided in getting back to healthy balance, use the NutriBac with either every or every second feeding during the regurge protocol. The reason I am suggesting this is because every time a snake regurges, it vomits out most of the stomach bacteria, good and bad and then the gut flora become out of balance and the bad bacteria can flourish and take over making the snake ill.

I have used the NutirBac with 2 snakes who had digestive problems and I believe that for the one it was the cause of the balance and for the other I KNOW that it saved the hatchlings life. That hatchling I fostered for a pet store in the next city, the hatchling had regurged twice already, its spine was sticking out, it was lethargic and not eating for them. I brought it home started NutriBac therapy and then Reguge therapy and sent it back to them exactly 3 mths later a very strong, healthy, muscular, aggressive feeder who had gained 15 gms and not had a single regurge while here.

Hope all of this helps you and your new baby out. Sorry if it was long winded.

I am going through th same thing!! I've had huge boas, ball pythons and adult corn snakes! All fine!! Even my sort of agressive boa settled in quickly...
NOW ...I have a tiny baby corn snake (my first baby) he was fine the first couple days I had him... Now he kicks up a stink when I take him out! He acts like a little monster trying to get away!! I was scared at first, because he does bite me . It really doesn't hurt !! No worries. I will persist gently until he likes me! Lol!
I also have 2 creamsicle corn adults...and it is very hard to tell when in shed...

Everything everyone has said is excellent! Something minor to ask, how do you feed your snake?
If you feed it with your hands, you may want to use tongs instead so he doesn't associate your hand with food (and feed him in a different area so he doesn't associate your hand entering the tank with food).