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Behavior General topics or questions concerning the way your cornsnake may be acting.

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One pissed off corn snake
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Old 04-03-2003, 12:19 AM   #11
13mur 6
If he's on the run just grab him, but gently, get your thumb and index finger on his midsection, and lift slightly while you slide your other hand under to support and pick him up.

Or if he's curled up in a ball cup both your hands around him and scoop him up. (Dija try the towel and fencing with your arm? On top of a bed is a perfect place).

I know it can be frustrating to have such a high wired snake, just keep trying and he'll learn sooner or later. Do you feed him in a separate container? Sometimes that's enough to associate you to a good thing.

But yeah, about the 70 gal tank, 70 gal is a huge tank even for an adult cornsnake. Most cornsnakes live their whole lives in 20 gallon tanks.

-13mur 6
 
Old 04-10-2003, 10:42 AM   #12
dhs545
Thanks for the handling instructions. I will try them. But as for the 70 gallon tank, he doesnt even use half of it. He stretches out occasionally along the glass, but he mainly hides under his favorite rock on the cold side. Also, if i would get another corn snake do you think this would stress him out more, or give him some nice company. Because when my brother first got his snake we had them both in the same tank and they would curl up on top of each other.
 
Old 04-10-2003, 11:17 AM   #13
Chip
Dhs,
As long as this is a small snake you're talking about, believe me, it will not hurt you at all to be bitten. I know it's a scary proposition to pick up a defensive snake in a striking pose rattling its' tail, but you will so overcome this fear after a few tries. Read CowBoyWay's Pavlov bit, too. If you leave the bugger alone when he does that, you could have a beast of an adult on your hands.
Do you have any friends around who have kept lots of snakes? Maybe they can come over and get him out for you. Usually they calm down after a few minutes. I ocassionally have wild caught adults sent to me and I'll even wear long sleeves for some big nasty males at first. Honestly, 99% of corns will respond to frequent gentle handling.
As for the 70 gallon tank, great! He's living the good life. I would check the temps in the cage with a good digital thermometer. 78 to 82 is ideal. Much warmer can get them cranky too.
 
Old 04-10-2003, 08:23 PM   #14
13mur 6
I would have to say not to get another snake. Doing so would probably cause stress to your hatchling snake as it's already aggitatated by your handling already. Though some snakes seem to curl up together, it's not because they "like" each other, but more that they decided to feel like being at the same temperature at the same time and can stand each other enough to curl up together. But then again, you have such a huge tank, they might totally not know the other is around until they happen to meet at say the water bowl one night. Also, beware of cannibalism.

Like I said about the 70 gal tank... it's on the big side. Snakes have very small territories, because there's so much of an abundance of food in even in small territories (mostly due to the huge territories mice have). But if your snake grows to be a 6 ft monster, then heck, 70 gal should give him plenty of playground space, maybe even space for a cage mate or two (if you do decide to keep multiple snakes in the 70 gal, make sure you have multiple hot spots, and not just one).

-13mur 6
 
Old 04-18-2003, 04:14 PM   #15
Kp&Co
For whatever its worth, if I want to play with my snakes, I wait until they're out of their hides & exploring before I take them out. I figure, as much as I love them, they are at my mercy & I want them to feel that they have a place they can get away from me! So if they're in their hides, I leave them alone, unless I have a really good reason to disturb them.

Also, my yearlings are so curious, that usually all I have to do is open the screen and tap on the rim & they'll come up to investigate - this has been true for most of the time I've had them. Once they've extended their length, I can gently get my fingers underneath them and lift them out. Occasionally, they'll shy away from my movements - if that happens, I just freeze for a few moments, to let them adjust, then try again.

Maybe try opening your snake's enclosure some evening and just watch to see if he'll get curious enough to explore? (Make sure you don't get distracted though, or you'll never see him again! i.e. open tank + unexpected phone call = bad mojo)

Kp
 
Old 04-18-2003, 05:37 PM   #16
dhs545
Thats great advice in all Kp&Co, but what if your snake never comes out. In the past week i have not seen him out once. When i picked up his rock to get him out he didnt want to crawl around. He just burrowed his way under the mulch until i left, then he made his way back to his rock. So what do i do in this situation. I feel that if i leave him alone until i actually see him, then he will feel that his rock is a safe place to go. So should i keep flipping over his rock and handling him to get him used to me, or should i leave him alone and only handle him when i see him?
 
Old 04-18-2003, 06:47 PM   #17
Chip
he definitely crawls sometime....

Check when you first get up in the morning and in the evening. Surely when he's getting hungry he explores that 70 gallon mansion! BTW, not to disagree with the other posts, but I think a 48 by 18" tank is a great home. Most corns don't live in 20 gallon tanks their whole lives, they live in the great outdoors. I'd be hard pressed to guess how much a baby corn travels in the wild, but it's surely a lot more than 4 feet.
Unless he's digesting, you can wake him and handle him, it's just not optimal. He'll be more stressed and spooked. And it doesn't lend its self to ideal "training." I have 11 adult corns and several subadults; I have to clean their cages, change substrate, water bowls and what have you with no regard to their state of alertness. I do get the occasional tail rattle from a couple of them, but grab them anyway. They get the message. Only new wild caught snakes or snakes in the field have ever actually bitten me, and once you see how little even a big male can do, you'll be over the fear. I'd rather most corns bite me than poop all over me .
 
Old 04-18-2003, 07:08 PM   #18
dhs545
I just picked up my snake using the scoop method. He tried to get away again but i managed to get him up. He was not aggressive this time, but he was extremely squirmy. Im not sure if he was trying to get away from me, or if he was just exploring. About a month ago he did squirm his way out of my hands and fall to the ground. He then crawled under the bed and got into strike position. This is the only reason i am hesitant about letting him crawl anywhere besides my hands, because i am not sure if he will try to get away again.
 
Old 04-18-2003, 09:42 PM   #19
13mur 6
Yep, corns are pretty squirmy things. Even as adults, they're not going to stay still (reason why they're so hard to photograph). They're generally very curious things, and will be constantly on the move when they're not hiding. The one way I got my corns to stop moving was to let them hide in a fold of my shirt (I wear overly large shirts, ). If you get the corn to weave in an out of your parted fingers, it'll give you more "security" when it comes to falling. I offer my parted fingers to my snakes when I handle them and they generally seem to like to weave through them.

It's good to hear you're making progress also, that was a pretty fast turn around on your snake's part IMHO.

-13mur 6
 
Old 04-19-2003, 02:06 PM   #20
dhs545
Thanks for all the advice 13mur6 i just wasnt sure if my snake was just overly aggressive compared to other snakes. But thanks to all the feedback from you and others i have found out that its just part of the nature of corn snakes. I guess i was just so used to seeing others snakes and they would always be calm. Thanks.
 

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