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Zombie Cornsnake (Seriously vamped out corn)

1- Put her entire self in the water. It's hard to keep them still and you want to stress her as little as possible.

2- Try one thing at a time, that way you can determine what works. Try whole pink in a dark bin. Then a brained pink in the dark bin. Then a pink cut in half along the spine. Then a pink dipped in tuna juice. A pink washed with dove soap and rinsed off really well. A pink rubbed on the skin/fat from original recipe crispy KFC. A pink dipped in low sodium chicken broth. A pink rubbed on a lizard like an anole. A pink rubbed with bird feathers (get some finch or 'keet feathers from a pet store). etc etc etc

and yes, keep her on paper towels until she is healed.
 
naruto said:
Alright so according to all of your(the forum) advice,

I will turn off my heat pad, and let my temps sit around 80-85ish.... Put my water bowl back, soak her daily in cool sugar water.. and try to feed her in a dark bin in three days.

My questions are,

- Soak her whole body or just tail?
- Should i try chicken broth on the pinkie in the dark bin?
- Do i soak her daily
- Should i keep her substrate out until she is healed, right now she is on news paper.

And if it matters, i use tubs and already have a rack set up for the corns i'm getting. But i will hold out on those until around the October expo, okay? ;)
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- Soak her whole body or just tail? put her in the sugar water enough to make sure her vent is in the water. Try to keep her in there as long as you can. You can do only her tail if she will let you.. otherwise do the best you can as long as her vent is soaking.

- Should i try chicken broth on the pinkie in the dark bin? I only use chicken broth covering the pinkie.. if I can't get mine to eat.
- Do i soak her daily yes, however often it takes to get the swelling down.. and check her vent every day to make sure it's healing.
- Should i keep her substrate out until she is healed, right now she is on news paper. Yes, keep her out of substrate until she is healed. Actually paper towel is better.. because the ink from the newspaper can get on her and aggravate or infect her wound.
 
naruto said:
Alright so according to all of your(the forum) advice,

I will turn off my heat pad, and let my temps sit around 80-85ish.... Put my water bowl back, soak her daily in cool sugar water.. and try to feed her in a dark bin in three days.

My questions are,

- Soak her whole body or just tail?
- Should i try chicken broth on the pinkie in the dark bin?
- Do i soak her daily
- Should i keep her substrate out until she is healed, right now she is on news paper.

And if it matters, i use tubs and already have a rack set up for the corns i'm getting. But i will hold out on those until around the October expo, okay? ;)
Click to expand...

I think just letting her sit in shallow water, her whole body, would be less stressful to her than you holding her and dipping her tail.

Not sure about the chicken broth. There are alot of things you could try, but I think if I were in your shoes I would brain a thawed pink first, and put her in a dark quiet delicup with it overnight.

I think newspaper is fine. It is not like aspen that can stick to wounds. I just hope she has no internal injuries.

Hopefully she eats eventually, so many Petco snakes don't....
 
I would soak her whole body, once a day until the swelling is gone for about 20 mins.

I would try plain pinkie cut in half in the dark bin first and then next feeding try the chicken broth dipping. try only offering food every 5 days or so. If you offer too often she won't eat either due to being stressed out.

I would use paper towel instead of the newspaper if it is inked. The ink can irritate the injury. Once the injury is healed and no longer swollen it should be ok to return her to the regular substrate you use.
 
naruto said:
They have a vet? If so he must be crap, about 95% of the reptiles they have are dead or dying.
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I have a friend in the Bronx maybe he knows a good vet close by. But I seriously suggest you get some more knowledge in snake husbandry before getting more. And trying to respect your mother enough to listen to her wishes. Yeah it may be your money, but is your mother's house.
Also, there are a lot of people on here that have been keeping snakes for years and most for more years than you have been around. So why not try listening instead of getting all offensive because they don't agree with you or your methods. I have had some problems with some hatchlings and there are people on here that have bent over backwards to help me and they would have helped you in any way also but attitude kills the want to help. And lastly why not have enough respect for the people on here and not call everyone bud, dude, man because a lot of the more knowledgeable ones here are women. If this offends you then sorry
bob brown
 
Your overall attitude is why you have received the responses that you have.
Please understand that every person here has the best interest of the snake in mind.
If you continue keeping reptiles, down the road, you will understand where the people here are coming from.

That said, you have been given good advice on how to care for her, so I won't duplicate those answers, I will just agree with them.

As far as vets go, I did a google search & found this http://www.reptilevetsnearyou.com/ml2/results

I really, really hope you take that snake to a vet.

I am glad to see that you are willing to wait until the October expo to consider getting any more snakes (I hope you were serious & not being sarcastic).

One thing you can do in the meantime, while you wait, is try to connect with local snake owners (& maybe a breeder or two) & see if you can learn from them. See if they will show you the proper way of popping babies, etc.

We all make mistakes, & we all started off new at this hobby. What's most important is if we learn from those mistakes, correct them & learn how to take better care of our animals.

Trust me when I tell you, that every response on here is based on the fact that the care of the snake is most important, regardless of how it comes across.
Please keep an open mind to the information that is being offered, & don't worry about nit-picking how it comes acrossed to you.

I really hope your snake pulls through.
 
I'm new to this thread, not the forum just to your siduation.

1. You say she won't eat for you. How many refusals have you had?
2. How long, exactly, have you had her?
3. Who told you your snake is a female and how did they know?
4. If you temps on the glass can get over 85 its too hot, did you know a snake will not eat if it is too hot?
5. I keep my snakes at room temp. That temp is usually 83 during the day, sometimes it gets 86, but never higher. At night it can drop to 76 but never lower. I have not had a regurge since I took away added heat. The only refusals I have had were snakes getting ready to shed and new hatchlings, as in newborn, not new from a shop.

Are you sure she does not have mites? I have read that dehydration can be caused by them, any way you look at it your snake is dehydrated thus drinking lots and lots of water. Another sign she is dehydrated is the fact that her poops were solid. Snake poop should be like bird poop, semi solids with lots of liquids. Not solid and firm.

I would get the temps t 83 on the hot side if you insist on having one, do not use lamps as they can kill snakes, and wait a few days so she can recover a little. Then, with her living on newspaper you can put her food in her viv and leave it over night. She should eat. Wait two days and give her a soak for her injury. Then wait a few more days and feed in viv again. Repeat until the injury is gone. But always keep the hot side of the tank under 86 on the glass. Ambient air temp on top of the bedding does not matter, it is the temp directly on the glass directly above the heating mat that matters. Ok? Feel free to private message me if you want to talk person to person.

And in the future, please do not throw a snake around even if you think it is dead. They are GREAT at playing possum so that their "attacker" will go away.
 
naruto said:
Like i said, she was under the lamp because she was in her feeding bin which had NO heat source because it is just used for FEEDING and my room was really cold, and i read if things are too cold they will not eat.

I poped her to make sure that "she" was indeed a female and to get a feel of how popping snakes is. I read you should never attempt to pop a young snake. But she was dead so hey... vet? Okay check!
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Do you know what the temp was under that lamp? Honestly have never heard of people using heat for a feeding tub, especially when it is 100* outside.
Even the experts pop females wrong, only males are a sure thing/things.
Where did you read 'never attempt to pop a young snake'? Would you pop an older snake? Hopefully you don't attempt to pop anymore snakes until you have been shown how to do it.
What others are saying is they have a hard time digesting if it is too cool. Digest as in after they eat it takes a couple days to digest.

Just an fyi not everyone on this forum is a 'dude, bro or bud'. There are actually women on this forum as in the queen of cornsnakes.
 
As to your original question, two things I've noticed recently can speak to your experience. One, our larger snake stuck his head under in his water dish and stayed there for about 5 minutes. It was so long I got up and walked over to check to see if he was dead. He was fine. Two, I hadn't seen our baby for days so I went looking for him and found him under a hide and he was this greyish unmoving lump and I lost it totally and sobbed thinking I had somehow killed this beautiful little snake and then after a bit he moved veeeerrrryyyy showly and found another hide.

So, the moral of my stories is that snakes act dead and scare you and it would be wise to assume they are alive.
 
Thanks guys she is doing great! Sorry for being a hot head, thank you so much.





gelshark said:
When I saw this



It made me laugh becuase earlier he said this



You'll eventually get things figured out, it probably only happened because you let the nine tailed demon fox out for a little bit, better work on getting that seal upgraded!
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Ha ha, Blow me and my nine tail fox mo fo...... -___- so not funny.
 
hey, whoa lol

do you have pics of the snake and set up? :)
Poor little lady snake, we will figure out what is up yet!
 
I knew there was a reason why I hadn't read this thread until now and that is only because of a reported post (surprisingly, only one).

naruto, I am very glad to hear your little corn snake is doing better and I hope, really hope, that it will continue to do well, but I have some doubts. In your first post, you say you have had her for 2 months and has only eaten once during that time. Later, you say she was in very poor condition when you got her. What you were trying to do in this most recent feeding attempt is called "tease feeding", where you irritate the snake with the prey item to the point it strikes and hopefully grabs and eventually eats the meal. Because your snake is basically starving to death, the stress caused by this procedure, in combination with the heat from the lamp, is what caused your little corn snake to almost die. You are very lucky that you left it alone and that it was able to recover or you would have had a dead baby snake. Most hatchlings that undergo a stress that causes them to appear dead don't recover, and if they do, it is often brief and they die within the next day or two.

The concern of the membership and yourself over the temperatures in your snake's environment is a very real one. You are afraid of the temps getting too low and causing a respiratory infection. You have a corn snake, a very hardy species that can easily tolerate temperatures within the human comfort zone. Corn snakes are routinely brumated for the winter in temps averaging in the low 50's to mid-60's. Granted, those snakes have been fasted to prevent digestive issues, but there is absolutely no danger in having your snake kept in temps in the 70's while it eats. There IS, however, a great danger of it becoming over-heated and dying very rapidly in temps of 90F and above. Heat lamps and just regular light bulbs put out tremendous amounts of heat very quickly within a certain distance from the lamp. It may not even feel hot to us because our body temperature is 98.6F whereas to a cold-blooded snake, 98.6F is lethal.

As a new member, I highly recommend that you read all the stickies at the beginning of each subforum. They will help you not only give the best of care to your corn snake but also give you some ideas on how this forum is run and what is expected from it's membership. We have a few "emotional" members that are not only out-spoken, but tend to speak too much, but do your best to leave the 'tude at the door, keep your cool, ignore the banter and listen to the advice you did get.
 
naruto - any living creature can get heat stroke yes snakes need heat but just because it is cold blooded it does not follow that temperatures can not be to hot. also i agree with may of the responses here, you should not get another baby corn and frankly the way you treated the "body of "a beloved pet" was highly disrespectful. i don't know how old you are but your mother may be right about you not having a snake at least not a young one. i would suggest re-homing the little one and getting an adult snake as they are more hardy and thus forgiving of beginner mistakes. i am not trying to be judgmental as i have had my share of newbee mistakes including one that ended with a gravid snake that just was only just at the minimum breeding size. and while conception likely happened around the time i picked the corns up from their original owners i would still blame myself if anything went wrong. also as much as you are going to hate me for this you need to take the snake to see a vet, by tossing it around like a ragdoll you may have caused internal bleeding or other sever problems that you can not see in addition to the damage you caused her vent. if you do not have the money talk to the vet their are ways around actual cash see if you can work for the vet for free until u have paid off the cost of the vet bill, believe me when i tell you there is always work to do around a vets office i know i worked for one for five years as a volunteer, and in that time i was taught many valuable lessons and i can tell you that most offices would rather have you taking out the trash and doing the huge amount of laundry that comes with vet work then someone who could be saving lives. talk to your vet if they are a good vet they will work out a way to help the snake.
 
as i read further into this i am going to make myself the bad guy by telling you this - show some respect to people who are older, wiser and more experienced then you. as for the not eating may i suggest trying a small lizard they are more expensive but corn snakes and rat snakes in the wild eat small lizards as hatchlings according to my herpetology (reptile biology) textbook. put her water-dish back in with her. also your temps are to high lower them. and honestly if you cant go to the vet their are some that will come to you.
 
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