Bioactive substrate (BAS) Natural viv - a why and “how-to” guide.

Bioactive substrate (BAS) - a why and “how-to” guide.

Many folks have messaged me for instructions and updates, and compliment, (Thank You ) so I thought I’d start this thread and maybe intrigue a few to try it with some clear, to the point instructions whist updating you periodically with my observations.

I’ll start with
The reasons I went with this type of setup (in no specific order):

Practical:- I read the book: “The Art of Keeping Snakes” by Philippe de Vosjoli and he made some convincing scientific and practical arguments for such a setup backed with detailed observations.
- I don’t have many snakes. If I were a breeder or had lots of snakes, this would require a huge amount of room so I am not knocking those with simple setups. The book suggests a bioactive ROOM if you are a breeder and not many of us have that kind of extra space.
- Suits my needs for an indoor garden.
- enhances the life of he snake (see below) and therefore reduces my guilt for holding an animal captive.

IMO more easily maintained:
- requires only weekly maintainence of watering and stirring, and wiping the glass;
- requires same scooping out of poop as other substrates;
- requires the additional of more substrate mixture only as needed (compaction will guide you as the substrate is visible through the glass)
- biological creatures do the “cleaning” work for you and the coco peat added is a natural odor absorber and it doesn’t smell so...
- I don’t have to tear the whole thing apart and clean out the bottom, etc.

more attractive:
- looks great in the living room and can double as a light;
- more attractive and and sculptural; when snake is hiding,
- I have a lovely, natural looking indoor garden to look at when snakie is sleeping.

offers a variety of options and visceral experiences for the snake:
- “play” and roaming room for the snakes is increased as multiple levels means increased floor space. A small vivARium becomes larger;
- offers variety in textures, scents, levels, temperature gradients, humidity gradients, places to rest, places to hide, ways to try to escape! LOCK THE LID or weigh it down good!
- hopefully, it’s closer to a natural environment and snakie feels less stressed.

shedding and moisture/humidity is better and more easily maintained- snake can burrow for moisture when needed during a shed. (no additional moisture box needed) Her sheds are complete now.
- only the very “more compacted bottom inch is “wet” and the snake doesn’t go down that far so skin diseases are not an issue as moisture is not next to the skin constantly.
- the dirt, once bioactive, doesn’t stick to the snake and seems to shine up her scales more than aspen did.
- requires I mist daily, same as other setups.

encourages a wider range of behaviors and exercise for the snake, and subsequent opportunities for my viewing pleasure.
- the snake can, and mine does, climb all over everything: branches, rocks, burrows in the dirt, wiggles around on the plants, sleeps around the stems during the day, climbs to the highest branches at the screen top at night.
- roams at night A LOT and now across the vivARium rather than just the outside perimeter.
- The snake also gets herself into some tricky situations where she has to figure out how to get back down to the ground (off the higher smaller branches). Perhaps these challenges keep her on her toes... Hey wait a minute...

Next installment to come: What you’ll need to get:

Awesome thread, please tell us what we'll need! I can't wait to start!

Great topic to post on! I def. will look into this for setting up any new tanks... thank you!

Cool! I can't wait for the how-to guide. I am thinking about doing this for my snake

I like seeing this for snakes. I've been researching poison dart frogs and the set ups for them are made in this fation. It wasn't called BAS, but it does the same thing. Essentially you create a little ecosystem in your terrarium (for frogs in this case) and the plants and bacteria do the cleaning (this also fertilizes the plants) while all you add is water and food for the frogs. Cleaning is only required every 5 years in this version, but that is because frogs don't have the same amount of excrement as snakes. It seemed like a great idea, so maybe I'll do it for corns in some way as well.

Thanks for posting it! Keep the info coming!

This sounds cool. What do you need for this type of setup.

DISCLAIMER: I STRONGLY recommend you get the book, “The Art of Keeping Snakes” by Philippe de Vosjoli, and read it at least twice before proceeding. Have it on hand to look things up. I AM NOT AN EXPERT. HE IS. This is my first BAS. I am just sharing my experience and limited knowledge. I encourage others to add their expertise to this thread. Also, read the forums here for expert knowledge on what a corn snake needs to be healthy in terms of temps and humidity, etc. I am not an expert on that either. I have only 2 snakes and I have had them for just 6 months or so. Research other websites and books, and, ask for advise from professionals. I did because I am new to this hobby and I am research junkie.

Alrighty then, let's get going...

Here's an easy “shopping” list to copy into a word document and take with you in your pocket. I’ll explain why you need them what to do with them in the coming posts.

BIOACTIVE VIVARIUM for CORN SNAKES - A Shopping List:

A snake:
Start with a healthy snake, 6 months or older, you know well, who eats well and is disease and problem free. Elliminating mites, for example, will require dismantling the whole setup and sick snakes or those with special needs should be monitored in a more simple setup. Also, acquire knowledge and research your snake, it’s natural habitat, the plants, etc. Know what your kind of snake needs to be healthy before proceeding.

For housing:
- 30 gallon+ tank: taller is better,
- locking screen lid

For substrate:
- potting soil with mixture of: peat moss, humus, compost, perlite. - 20 liters
- coco peat/eco earth brand is fine - 2 bricks
- PLAY sand - 2 liters.
- volcanic rock (for drainage) such as: perlite, calcinated clay or natural kitty litter clay with no additives
- small fish tank gravel - 2 handfuls
- medium sided gravel (enough to cover the bottom of the tank in about a 1” layer)


To provide basic needs and to monitor:
- digital humidity gauge
- heat source: under tank heater (UTH), ambient lights (check your temps)
- digital probe thermometer (2),
- night viewing light, hooded (well worth it)
- tube/flourescent light FOR PLANTS with UV (doubles as a day light)
- cool and warm hides: half log, small & thin flag stone slabs, additional support rocks for the slabs to rest securely on. Must be flat.
- water dish
- feeding dish (optional and indivdual)
- appliance timer (if desired)
- plastic tube/PVC piping (to water bottom of substrate) the width of toilet paper roll or bit smaller, 14” or more. Those black tubes form Kricket Keepers is what I used.

For decor and adventure:
- branches with twigs: look for stems same 50% of, or, the girth of your snake, branching out to thinner twigs (looks nice). NOT PINE OR CEDAR as they can be toxic. RESEARCH THIS.
- smaller rocks for decoration.
- plants which do well in terrariums: I use wandering jew, snake plant/birds nest, and a bromelaide due to their strength, and tolerance for low /artificial light. Should be appropriate size and strength because they’ll get trampled otherwise.

To maintain:
- spray bottle (mist)
- long “roast” fork or small garden fork (to turn soil)
- small pooper scooper

Design Notes:
Try to colour coordinate all materials. For example, the colour of my rocks go with the colours of my plants.
Follow the small, medium and large design rule contrast the sizes, shapes and colours for plants, rocks, and branches. Some light, medium and dark shades followed by the darkest value of the substrate mixture works well together. More on design later if desired.

Coming Installments in this thread:
- pictures yes, we all luv pics!
- WHY, WHAT, and HOW TIPS on supplies used.
- How to put it all together
- maintaining.

Clearly, I have no life and so, therefore, the time to write yet another long post in one day.

"Fairly attractive, down-to-earth, professional 38 year old SWF with knowledge of power tools seeks male, same, age 35-47, for romantic walks on beach to discuss various aspects of snakes/their husbandry, and possible long term relationship. Emotional intelligence, sense of humour, ability to compromise and own vivarium are a plus. Must have knowledge of sexing and be a "normal". Please send picture of snake."

You think I'm kidding?

Moving on...

Here’s some notes on why you need these things, and what to look for and consider based on my limited experience thus far.


For housing
tank: A taller tank is better for a BAS as you’ll need about 3” of substrate. I have 4” in one corner to provide another surface depth variety. A BAS also works better in 30 gallon and or larger and for snakes 9 months or older according to the book as small snakes get lost in all the ins and outs and it is therefore hard to monitor them. A taller tank is also good here because you can put more substrate in (better drainage) and still have the height needed for housing and decor items. Tank perimeter should be 2.5 - 3 times the length of your snake around the perimeter. More is fine/better too.

locking screen lid: The branches allow the snake to get right to the top so measures must be taken to ensure safety.


For the Bioactive substrate:
There was no hard and fast rule presented in the book, “The Art of Keeping Snakes” by Philippe de Vosjoli, in terms of ratio for the organic mixture of the BAS. What you are going for is drainage, non-compacting top layers, variety of organic matter for organisms to feed and live on. It seems to me that the ratio is not an exact science but I’d say this was my ratio for the top layer bioactive mixture:

- 4/8 ready to use potting soil with mixture of: peat moss, humus, compost, perlite. - 20 liters
- 2/8 coco peat - eco earth brand is fine - 2 bricks
- 2/8 PLAY sand - 2 liters. This is safe for ingestion.
- 2 handfuls of volcanic rock (for drainage) such as: perlite, un-fired clay or natural kitty litter clay with no additives (my potting soil already had some).
- 2 handfuls small fish tank gravel no jagged edges
- medium sided gravel (enough to cover the bottom of the tank in about a 1” layer)

substrate layers (from bottom to top):
bottom: (goes on the floor of the tank) medium sided fish tank gravel, sterilized, enough to cover the bottom about 1/2”

layer of screen: The book said this was optional and I’m glad I DIDN'T’T put it in. Without screen, the bottom peat layer settles in the cracks between the gravel and I was able to get at the moisture to stir it up to the upper layers to provide oxygen to the good bacteria.

middle: (goes on top of the gravel): some sort of straight peat. I used coco peat. This layer stops the dirt from settling between the gravel beneath as it is more tightly packed as it holds the most water of all the layers. water comes upwards from here to the top, dryer layer. You need 1 “ worth or so. Apparently an earth worm is a good idea down here, more if you got 'em.

top (where the snake lives): 2-3” of the BAS substrate mixture. Hills are nice around the plants or in the corners.


To provide basic needs and monitor:
- plastic tube/PVC piping (to water bottom of substrate) This tube gets put into the tank in the very corner before anything else is put into the tank. It gets propped up in either back corner and held in place by the gravel and substrate. Basically, this is used as a watering funnel for getting water to the very bottom of the tank, therefore allowing moisture/humidity to rise from below and encouraging organisms to stay below too. The width of a toilet paper roll or bit smaller is good. I hid mine behind a plant. Those black tubes from cricket keepers is what use. Get 14” or more. You’ll need to stuff a crumpled piece of screen into the tub to prevent the snake from getting stuck in it or something else that will no go mouldy.

- digital humidity gauge Humidity is well maintained in this type of set up. I keep it at around 70%. The top layer of substrate is dry so skin blisters or disease is a non-issue for me. My snake has good sheds where before she shed in pieces. She also burrows in the dirt for the moisture she needs and stopped doing so the day she shed. Now she’s out and about again.

- heat source, under tank heater (UTH) This is tricky. I found that because the substrate layer was 3“thick, and of a dense material, the smaller UTH did only half the job raising temp to 70-73 on a cool day/for the warm side which is not hot enough for the warm side. I use a UVB Plant light during the day which keeps the temperature on the warm side to where it needs to be 80-82 degrees whilst still allowing the cool side to remain cool inside the hide.

- digital probe thermometer (2) like any setup, the probe is best.

- night viewing light, hooded (well worth it) My corn is most active at night. I couldn't’t believe what she got up to when she thought no one was looking.

- tube/fluorescent light FOR PLANTS with UV (doubles as a day light and keep air warmish) You need a special light for plants to thrive as this will be the only light they get. They need 12-16 hours a day so the multiple hides for the snake and timer come in handy.

- cool and warm hides of wood or stone or half log, small & thin flag stone slabs, additional support rocks for the slabs to rest securely on- must be flat. - flag stone slabs are nice as they stack stable. Be concerned about rocks and logs toppling over and crushing your snake. The store bought resin/plastic hides are fine too but they just look fake with all that natural stuff IMO.

- water dish I put small polished rocks into the bottom of a glass dish for added colour and visual interest.

- feeding dish Jo eats out of her feeding dish readily but your snake may drag her food item around her viv. Jo is also small. My bigger 3.5 foot snake (Ball Python) I take out to feed cause she rolls around all over the place and I don’t want the stink of blood in the viv. However, I suspect the blood would create food for the bacteria, etc. I don’t use any bark in the substrate mixture for fear of impaction (although the book mentions it’s okay). The other things in the substrate mixture are either too large or readily digested organic matter. When the corn gets older, I may adjust this “feeding dish” routine to suit her habits.

- appliance timer (if desired) comes in handy for plant lights, and other electrical equipment you use. Vacations are not a worry.


For decor and adventure:
- branches with twigs: stem same girth as your snake, branching out to thinner. NOT PINE OR CEDAR-toxic. Research this please.

- smaller rocks for decoration. Don’t overcrowd the viv. A few rocks at the base of plants is nice. Group items together and leave empty floor space for poop and exploration.

NOTE: Plants and decor items should not cover more than 1/3 of the ground surface area available to the snake to leave room for monitoring your snake, room for her, and to make use of the bioactive substrate and active organisms in the “biofilm.”

- plants which do well in terrariums: RESEARCH TOXIC PLANTS. QUARANTINE YOUR PLANTS FOR A MONTH TO LOOK FOR BUGS. All but 3 of the plants I bought had spider mites or mealy bugs. Buy these first and set them aside, away from your other house plants (the bugs can and do spread) for observation while you collect supplies. I threw out infested plants or used them as outdoor plants.

Use plants that do well in a woodland terrarium, under artificial or low light. Desert type snakes may do well with succulents but not the corn. There’s too much moisture from below and root rot is a concern. I used a wandering Jew, and a bromeliads due to their strength, and tolerance for low /artificial light and moisture needs.

Again, my snake is small. As she grows, she’ll crush plants and let me know it’s time to change to a hardier, stronger species. Should be appropriate size, strength ‘cause they’ll get trampled otherwise.

TIP: Look for plants that offer opportunities to hide wires and tubing too!

Look for plants that compliment each other in colour but offer variety in structure so they don’t look the same. A small leafed plant coupled with a broad or long leaf plant makes a nice contrast. Plain with variegated, dark with light, etc. More on design later. Oh ya, water the plants at the base of the plant too and don’t fear misting them.


To maintain:
- spray bottle (mister) You have to mist daily, like usual. Keeps surface dust down and humidity up.

- long “roast” fork or small garden fork. (turn soil). The soil needs to be watered and turned weekly to allow oxygen to reach the good bioactive bugs and bacteria otherwise things will start to stink. Good bugs need oxygen, bad bugs can live in the compacted damp soil and do nothing but poop out stinky stuff that will turn your viv into a haven for harmful bacteria. You want the good bacteria here. More on this later. Good bacteria will eat the poop of the bad. More on the micro-life later too.

- small poop scooper To remove fecal matter (pooh) when you see it. A little left behind is not a bad thing. More on this in "maintaining".

Next installments to come:
- pictures
- How to put it all together.
- Maintaining.

Great thread,
This is something I've wondered about for a long time. As an avid gardener(sad) And snake keeper it appeals to me to combine the two.
I will buy the book and watch with interest,
but you try it first
I don't doubt the idea, but, it's always better for one to go down un trod paths, and come back an report.
Go soldier

I'm wondering about the misting. I never mist my corns except at shed time. Otherwise they recieve no misting at all, but stay at whatever the ambient outside humidity is. Since I live in South Carolina, it can vary from 50%-90% but it rarely stays at high levels all the time.