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52 suite hatchling apartment

antsterr

Always mostly awesome
I’ve been thinking about a design for something like this since last year. I had multiple hatchling escapes last fall from my current rack set up, which was designed for juveniles and was only being used for hatchlings because I had nothing better to use. My theory on racks is that you buy the tubs and build the rack around their dimensions, with this in mind I set about building a 52 suite apartment for my expected 2013 hatchlings. I’m expecting 50+ this year, I’m glad that I won’t have to cohabitate groups of them like I have in the past.
So, to start out I purchased 52 plastic 1L containers. Since I had all winter to get this project done, I waiting until they were on sale at The Real Canadian Superstore and scooped them up for about a dollar each. Plus tax, cost = $58
13+-+3

I ordered 6ft of 12inch flexwatt from Greg at cornelsworld.com (a good place to order from in western Canada) that came preassembled with the wires and clips attached. Cost =$58 (very speedy shipping! It was here 2 days after I ordered it)
The rack material was cut from 8ft melamine laminate which I picked up from home depot, because the tubs were only 9” deep and the melamine was 11” wide I had an inch trimmed off at the store so that the shelving wasn’t too much deeper than the tubs. I used my miter saw to cut all the shelving pieces to size, though if one needed to you can get this all done at the store for $1 per cut. Cost = $60 +$3 for having it trimmed down to 10”
13+-+18

For a back to the shelving I used an old piece of wallboard I had kicking around and cut it to the size of the rack, 27”x36”. I put strips of 1x4 down the back behind the areas I was stapling so that the staples had something solid to bite into. When stapling flexwatt, make sure not to puncture through any of the copper strips or the black heating elements, but stapling through the clear plastic is fine.
13+-+17

With the flexwatt in place I began to assemble the shelf, putting down 4 tubs to see how well they would space out. I used screws to fasten the corners, pre-drilling each hole to make sure the melamine would not split. I built it upside down so that I could ensure that the top was perfectly flush.
13+-+15
 
One level at a time I laid the tubs in place, placed the next shelf on top, nailed it in place and then slid a middle divider in. The divider keeps the tubs in such a position that each tub has the same amount of heating behind it, helping to even out heat amongst all tubs equally. I used a pre-cut slice of OSB to space it properly and then tacked it in place. I used a pneumatic brad nailer with 1 inch nails to put the shelves together. I was concerned at first that it wouldn’t be very solid but after a few tests I found that indeed it was very solid and screws would be unnecessary.
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Periodically I measured the shelves to make sure that as I added in each shelf that I was keeping the sides level with each other. It worked out really well and I didn’t have to make any adjustments to the height, I just let the tubs work as spacers as I added in each new level.
13+-+7

Once the final piece was in place I flipped it over and made sure it stood stable.
13+-+5

I was satisfied with the assembly and moved on to the final phase, I cut the wires, hooked up a dimmer switch to control the heat levels, stapled the wires down so that they didn’t hang or get tangled and attached the dimmer switch into an indent I cut with a wood chisel. The one oversight in the design was that I didn’t leave enough room at the bottom to fit the dimmer switch in so I had to cut away about a quarter inch to get it in place. I ended up using friction and glue to hold it in place, since you can’t put screws sideways into these switches.
13+-+4

With rotary dimmer switches you need some kind of marking to indicate how far the knob is turned and what level of heat your putting out. I’ve found a nice little black mark does the trick. I’ve considered using a thermostat before but my interior temperatures are consistent enough that I’ve found I rarely need to adjust the settings and so a dimmer switch works just fine.
13+-+1

With everything now assembled, set up one tub with hatchling from last year who hasn’t really grown much, just to get an idea of what it would look like once I began to fill it up.
13+-+2

I picked up 100 tiny cups from (Cost =$6) which I use for both water dishes and little locking feeding containers for those more stubborn eaters.
In total, this rack set me back about $180. The construction worked out very well, I think it took me just under 3 hours to assemble.
I’m about 3 weeks away from having 51 eggs hatch, I’m quite happy to have this nice new setup in place and ready on day one hatching season.
 
Nice job, but I have a couple of questions about the heating setup:

1) I've not used Flexawatt before, and I'm wondering about the power draw with all of it in a single circuit. Would it have been better to have each side independently adjustable to reduce the load and give better temp control?

2) Given hot air's tendency to rise, are you concerned about the top racks being too hot if the bottom ones are adjusted correctly?

I'm not criticizing (far from it!), I'm just curious - and thinking about how I could use the design for my own nefarious purposes in the future ... :)
 
To respond to your questions Guru

1. The power needed for these panels is quit low, comparable to dim reading lamp. The dimmer switch is made to control up to a dozen light bulbs, so I'm not at all concerned about having it on one circuit. As for controlling left and right independently, each side is identical in lay out and with nothing in the room effecting the heat of one side or the other, I don't think this will be an issue. If it is, it's just a few twists of the wire and a few wire caps and I can add a second switch in very easy.

2. Given the low amount of heat put out by the panel, I'm not expecting rising air to be a problem, also is the air wants to flow somewhere, it can't just move up, it would have to flow to the front of the shelves to move up.

After leaving it plugged in and set to half power for a day I used my temperature gun to find out how even it was heating.
The left and right sides were indeed completely identical in temperatures but I found the inner two columns averaged about 1-2 degrees higher than the outside two, I suppose this would be due to heat loss through the sides. Oh well, 1-2 degrees is no big deal.
Also from top to bottom the bottom two rows were about 2 degrees cooler than the rest but after row two it all evened out. Given the flexible range that corns can healthily survive at, I'm pretty sure this will not be an issue.
 
That looks awesome! I had plans to build an identical rack with those exact containers this winter! What thickness and size of melamine did you use, and how exactly did you do to cut the dividers to fit so perfectly? I am thinking of doing something identical, except with 72 bins and constructed using 1/2" PVC sheet, screws, and the new THG heat tape with a herpstat.

Thanks!
 
Great rack. To be honest not a big fan of racks for baby colubrids. I heat my herp room so I find deli cups work real well. Cheap only about twenty bucks to house one hundred snakes, easy to clean, and stack floor to ceiling real well. By no means is this critisim just what I do.
 
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