• Hello!

    Either you have not registered on this site yet, or you are registered but have not logged in. In either case, you will not be able to use the full functionality of this site until you have registered, and then logged in after your registration has been approved.

    Registration is FREE, so please register so you can participate instead of remaining a lurker....

    Please be certain that the location field is correctly filled out when you register. All registrations that appear to be bogus will be rejected. Which means that if your location field does NOT match the actual location of your registration IP address, then your registration will be rejected.

    Sorry about the strictness of this requirement, but it is necessary to block spammers and scammers at the door as much as possible.

Flexwatt wiring question

psyhodad

psyhodad

New member
Hi,

I'm going to be working on a shelving unit this weekend for my rapidly expanding collection. But, I have a question on flexwatt that I haven't been able to find an answer for, even at the websites that sell and have wiring diagrams for it.

1) I'm going to run the flexwatt horizontally down the rear of each shelf so that each sterlite has the rear 1/4 over the tape. My question is this. Do I have to run individual strips down each shelf or can I splice each end with two wires to have one continues circuit, that uses only one plug in, eliminating the need to have multiple plugs from each strip? Each splice would be sealed in RTV heavy duty silicon to prevent accidental shocks or shorts.

2) On the thermostat, if it's rated at 500 watts and say flexwatt is rated at 6 watts a foot (i know its somewhere around that), does that mean I can safely use that thermostat to control up to roughly 70 feet of flex safely, keeping below the 500 watt max?


Thanks, Psyho
 
psyhodad said:
1) I'm going to run the flexwatt horizontally down the rear of each shelf so that each sterlite has the rear 1/4 over the tape. My question is this. Do I have to run individual strips down each shelf or can I splice each end with two wires to have one continues circuit, that uses only one plug in, eliminating the need to have multiple plugs from each strip? Each splice would be sealed in RTV heavy duty silicon to prevent accidental shocks or shorts.
Click to expand...

1) Yes you can splice the wires, you only need one plug for multiple sections of flexwatt. It is important that the sections of flexwatt are wired in parallel. This will keep the voltage on each section the same. This is how I have my rack wired.

psyhodad said:
2) On the thermostat, if it's rated at 500 watts and say flexwatt is rated at 6 watts a foot (i know its somewhere around that), does that mean I can safely use that thermostat to control up to roughly 70 feet of flex safely, keeping below the 500 watt max?
Click to expand...

2) Yes, but I would not push it to its full specification. I would only run 75% of the maximum wattage just to be safe. 70 feet puts you at 420 watts. That would probably be safe.

Justin
 
I too am hoping to build my first rack soon. I know that my questions were/are along the same line. What I think I need is pictures of how some of you set up your flex watt, particularly the wiring between the rows of tape.

I would like to build a rack similar to the one Cav built in the beginning of the build your own rack thread... With the vertical strips behind the bins... Or do you guys think it's better to go horizontally behind each level?

How do you determine how wide to go with the tape? How much space between rows is good if you are doing the vertical method?

Thanks so much guys! As I said before I would LOVE pictures of any kind! I need lots of ideas!

Rebecca
 
Here's how I positioned the heat tape on a rack of 2 1/2 gallon tanks. It's about 2" from the back of the shelf. I just fed the line wires out through the back of the pegboard.

positiontape2.jpg



And here's how I connect the line wires so that they all lead into one plug. I've built racks for tubs the same way, but don't have any pictures of those yet. Hope it helps.
linewiresonback.jpg
 
I do have an instruction sheet for how I built that 2 1/2 gallon rack on my website. It covers the heat tape wiring and installation process start-to-finish and has more pictures. It's kind of slow-loading (PDF) but some people have found it helpful.

It's under the articles and caresheets link on my website (url below).
 
pgr8dnlvr said:
I would like to build a rack similar to the one Cav built in the beginning of the build your own rack thread... With the vertical strips behind the bins... Or do you guys think it's better to go horizontally behind each level?
Click to expand...

Vertical and horizontal are equally effective, I just prefer vertical because it should last longer. If the tubs pulled in and out and sitting on horizontal tape, it will eventually start to damage the tape.
 
Thanks so much Paul and Cav! I would like to see pictures of how you specifically did the wiring for your tape Cav!

I appreciate the website so much Paul!

Tell me, does anyone know, if I do decided to do vertical strips... How do you know how wide of a heat tape to use? The supplier told me it depends on the size of the tubs you will be heating, but I want to use different size tubs on it? Likely all will be rubbermaid which have one dimension in common <16"> The other dimensions will vary...

Maybe I can use the three inch and just make sure I only have two or three inches between each strip? Does anyone know how I should do it?

Thanks again,
Rebecca
 
Ok! I just checked out your website THANKYOU THANKYOU THANKYOU for taking the time to create those instructions...

I have to admitt I know NOTHING about wiring, so I was a little confused in the wiring section. Do you run a1-b1 and attach them together? Why is there all of the sudden a third <z> cord? Where does it come from?

Does you attach A1,B1, AND Z1 all together? Then Z1 attaches by itself to C1??

Ug I just don't get it, and I have to laugh because you said "now comes the EASY part? Were you exagerating or what???

Rebecca
 
pgr8dnlvr said:
Ok! I just checked out your website THANKYOU THANKYOU THANKYOU for taking the time to create those instructions...

I have to admitt I know NOTHING about wiring, so I was a little confused in the wiring section. Do you run a1-b1 and attach them together? Why is there all of the sudden a third <z> cord? Where does it come from? SEE BELOW
Does you attach A1,B1, AND Z1 all together? YES
Then Z1 attaches by itself to C1?? YES, AND Y1

Ug I just don't get it, and I have to laugh because you said "now comes the EASY part? Were you exagerating or what???

Rebecca
Click to expand...

lol I always think that is the easy part compared to positioning the heat tape and getting it taped down. :) Basically, A, B, and C are cords from the heat tape, Z and Y are separate pieces of wire. All of the 1's connect together, and all of the 2's connect together.

A1 is from the top row of heat tape. B1 is from the second row of heat tape. Z1 is a separate piece of wire, approximately 12" long that is connected to A1 and B1 at the second row and then connected to C1 and Y1 at the third row. Y1 then goes down to the next row. The "2's" work the same way (you never connect a 1 with a 2)

I hope that helps and doesn't make it more confusing! I can try to come up with a better diagram if needed.
 
Ok, I THINK I get it, though I somehow doubt it! lol!

Why do the unattached wires come into play anyway? Couldn't you just do A1 - B1 - C1 then directly to one of the wires going to the thermostat?

I am hoping to do seven slots in my rack. If I do the method you did of taping down the heat tape to the shelf can you somehow make one of your nifty diagrams or pictures of how I should wire that one up?

Thanks again, I appreciate how frustrating it must be to be trying to help "nimrods" like me! lol!

Rebecca
 
Ok, I'm 99% sure I already asked this question on another thread but I can't seem to find it, or my answers...

Does anyone know if there is a formula for deciding how wide of a heat tape to go with? I also need to know the spacing allowed.

I would like to know what you guys think I should use in both of these situations...

Vertical strips tacked to back of the rack

Horizontal strips lining the shelves, as previously shown on this thread.

I am hoping that my rack with be about 5 1/2' long x 4' tall by 20" wide shelves. This should give me seven shelves, with a 6" height. It will be made out of solid pine, I'm thinking 1/2" stock should be plenty thick enough... The back will be pegboard.

I wanted to mix the size containers on the shelves OR do six 30"x16"x6"on the bottom three shelves, then on the top I'm thinking one 23"x16"x6" then 2 of the 11"x16"x6". I know, it's going to be one heck of a squeeze but I think it will work...

Please give as much in the way of opinions and advice that you can!

Thanks
Rebecca
 
pgr8dnlvr said:
Why do the unattached wires come into play anyway? Couldn't you just do A1 - B1 - C1 then directly to one of the wires going to the thermostat?
Click to expand...
I suppose you could, but I avoid putting more than 3 wires together in any union. The rack in the pictures actually has 5 shelves, and if I wired it the way you asked, there would be 6 wires (1 for ea. shelf + 1 for the line cord) all joining together at the same time.
pgr8dnlvr said:
I am hoping to do seven slots in my rack. If I do the method you did of taping down the heat tape to the shelf can you somehow make one of your nifty diagrams or pictures of how I should wire that one up?
Click to expand...

I have two other racks for tubs that I built, one with 7 shelves and one with 9. I will try to take pictures of them as soon as I get a chance, but they're wired/taped pretty much the same way as the rack in the photos.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top