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Ok so...don't hate me for this but...

Zombiegirl

Zombiegirl

New member
I discovered today that Nile (newly acquired ball python) has mites...I spent hours reading online about PAM and the Nix method and ultimately chose to go with the NIX method for now as I can get my hands on it NOW and don't have to wait and keep Nile miserable until the PAM shows up...I've read opinions on both sides of why PAM is good and Nix is bad, vice verse. I didn't come here to start a debate, I just want to make sure I'm doing things properly.

I bought the 59ml bottle of Nix, 1 gallon of distilled H2O and had an empty clean spray bottle handy so whipped up said concoction. Next I took EVERYTHING out of his viv, soaked his hides and water dish in ultra hot bleach water (and then sprayed his hides down also) and sprayed his viv down soaking wet and got in all the nooks and crannies. I let this sit and as I was doing all of this I had Nile soaking in a separate container in lightly soapy water. After I let him soak for a good half hour, I took him out and wiped him down with a rag that I had sprayed with the Nix mixture (I couldn't bring myself to spray him down like some things I've read). After his viv was dry, I put paper towels in and cut a big diet pepsi box in half for his hides...he looks pretty pathetic :(

Because I am so paranoid I sprayed a rag down and ran it along the lids of each of my other snakes tanks and will treat them preventively also, my concerns here are my "littles"...my hoggie, RB and lavender. I plan on doing the same thing to their vivs as far as paper towels, etc and would wiping them down also be ok to do since they are much smaller than Nile?
 
FYI, Get some Natural Chemistry reptile spray for future outbreaks of mites and to treat for the next round of mites hatching that it seems we never kill the first time. It does not use poisons or toxins. I've used it with great success and contained a mite outbreak to just a couple of tubs.
I'll skip the debate :)
 
I noticed him soaking in his water bowl today...so I slathered him with mineral oil and re-sprayed his tank with NIX...so far I'm just curious
 
And by slathered I mean a light coat...I squirted some on a gloved hand and let him slither through it...I didn't drown him in it >.<
 
There were several dead ones on the paper towels and I'm hoping *fingers crossed* it's only contained to him...I am still treating everyone else regardless...I find it odd that he was soaking today and not last week when I first noticed them :/
 
It might be the next round of mites that hatched under his scales.
After todays retreatment I'd probably wait a few days to see what happens.
Since your not afraid to use Nix have you ever heard or used No Pest strips ?
I personally always try natural first hence why I suggested the Natures Chemistry which has worked very well but if I have a persistent problem then I go to No pest strips.
They have possible but not proved negative reviews just like Nix does.
 
I think I saw the Natures Chemistry stuff at Petco theo ther day and didn't realize that's what it was until I read your suggestion...I will go pick it up if they still have it. And I haven't tried those?
 
Since it is 1 snake in 1 tank then I highly recommend the Natures Chemistry. I would bath him and clean out any residual Nix beforehand.

No pest strips will kill mites and eggs everywhere including any under the scales of the BP. BUT you will need detailed instructions. If you can't eliminate them with Natures Chem then No Pests will.
 
I've always used PAM and I don't spray the snake with any of the stuff directly. Just treated the cage and then put the snake back once it's dried. Any porous thing like hides, or branches are discarded as you'll never kill the eggs if they get into nooks and crannies and bleach is very toxic to the snakes....I've never had mites in my collection because I quarantine all new snakes for a minimum of 3 months in another room and up to 6 months depending upon where it came from. I've had two snakes come to me with mites but never had ore than just them because of being in quarantine. I'd make sure your ball python is separated from the rest of the animals immediately until you're sure they are gone. IBD is thought to be spread by mites and having a snake that's extremely vulnerable to the disease such as ball python is something you want to make sure you get under control right away. I'd keep the ball python quarantined for 6 months now that it has had mites to watch for any signs of anything else popping up.
 
Be very very very careful with no pest strips...I personally know of several people who ended up with neurological issues from the pesticide. Snakes are very vulnerable to pesticides and the no pest strips are not intended for that type of use. Cut a strip too large, or put it too close to the cage and you've got a permanently damaged or dead snake......
 
I prefer to use as little pesticides as possible. Again why I like Natures Chem. But just like PAM and Nix, you usually have to treat a few times to get each life cycle of a mite. At least with Natures Chem your not doing it with poisons.
The odds of neurological issues with No pest strips is the same as PAM and Nix if used right. The strips use fumes to kill instead of direct contact that sprays require giving you a huge advantage in eliminating mites including eggs. If you do have a mite problem that's spreading cage/tub to cage/ tub then strips are fast and simple. Some of the largest breeders use them. I personally know one that taught me the strip trick 20+ years ago that still uses them to this day quite liberally. He is the maker of many of the BP morphs you see today including some worth 10's of thousands. I doubt that he would risk such a valuable collection. You must use certain cautions with them though which is why I only recommended them since you felt comfortable enough to use Nix. NPS at full strength (full strip) is not recommended for use in a room occupied more than 4 hours a day by humans but cut into small pieces and placed in a container inside a cage then it will only effect that cage. I remove the water while treating.
Even though snake mites don't like people as a food source they do like us as a mode of transportation so even with quarantining you must wash after handling and do not let the snake come in contact with your clothes.
 
I've never needed to treat more than once with PAM...it lasts 30 days and since the life cycle of the mite is around 2 weeks for eggs to hatch it's covered. I occasionally treat another time if there was a heavy infestation to be sure that all are dead but generally I don't need to.
I would always work with the quarantined snake last and remove my clothes to be washed. You don't have to come into contact with the snake to get the mites...if they are in the cage, on the carpet or floors or near the cage you can pick them up. Always work with quarantined animals after your clean collection and if you have several in quarantine, work with the one that has the mites/illness last of those to avoid contaminating your quarantined ones.
 
The life cycle of a mite inside a snakes cage is around two weeks. It's the ones that find a cool spot usually outside the cage that can live up to five weeks.
With ball pythons it's their heat pits that are a great hiding place that sprays have a hard time getting to. Also the anal vent. Again why I like Natures Chemistry. I'd rather spray the heat pits and anal vent with a non toxic spray.
 
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