Picky Eater...

[Isis]

I recently purchased my baby albino corn last Monday from a well-maintained, respectable petstore. He was born roughly around Aug 6th, and out of the clutch, he was a picky eater right off the bat. He has only fed a few times, compared to the other babies. He has eaten, of course, but since I have brought him home, he has not. I got him on Monday. I tried to feed him on Tuesday, and he wouldn't eat. Then I realised he was shedding. He shed a complete and totally intact skin on Thursday night, after which I attempted feeding. He refused. Now it is Saturday night, and I am going to attempt feeding him again.

It has been 18 days since he has last eaten. He hadn't eaten for very many days after I bought him, and still hasn't yet. I know they need an 'adjusting period' but I am starting to get worried.

Other than that, he seems to be fairly active. I have handled him. He crawls around the tank a lot.

The temperature is around 75, and I have two water bowls, a large hidey hole, repti-bark substrate and a climbing vine, all within a 20 gallon aqauarium. Shouldn't he feel safe enough to eat?

I tried dangling the pinky mouse in front of him on Thursday to entice him into eating, and this seemed to frighten him. He darted away and hid, and then later came out and ignored the mouse.

Is 18 days too long? Should I be very worried?

Thanks

P.S It is now Sunday and he did not eat on Saturday night.

 

[bmm]

Well for one, since you tried to feed him so soon he will need more time to adjust. Normally you need to leave them 100% for one - two weeks before a feeding attempt after a purchase. If you try before then you stress them out causing an even longer delay in the eating process.

Also 75 is too cold. Cornsnakes, as with all snakes, need a gradient in the cage. One side can be room temp. This is the "cool side" the other end needs to be the "warm end" with a temp between 82-85. Creating two tempuratures in the cage allows the snake to choose where he needs to be. This is a must, and giving him a warm side of 82-85 will up your chances of getting him to eat for you.

What I would do is create the warm spot. Leave him totally totally alone for a week. Then leave a pinky in his cage. You could also try stabbing the pinky in the head before putting it in the cage as well. This can help get him interested. Place the pinky in the cage in the evening and leave overnight. If this does not work, give it another week, and place him in a very small dark container overnight with a pinky. If that doesn't work, come back and we can all give you the next steps. Do not worry, one of my hatchlings didn't even have a first meal until it was 35 days old. He will be fine but he needs warm alone time.

bmm

 

[bmm]

By the way I only know of like two pet stores in all of Canada that I would call "reputable" so in most cases, don't listen to what they have to say. At all. Most of the time they are 100% wrong in almost all their info.

good luck

bmm

 

[Isis]

Thanks for the info.

I've heard about this: 'braining' technique. Does it really work?

I have a heating pad on one side of the tank, and then my heatinb bulb/lamp is right in the middle. Is this alright?

 

[bmm]

I would move all heating sources to one side only. Nothing in the middle or on the cool side. You need to make sure to have a thermometer as well or you'll never know for sure if your snake is too cold or being cooked.

Braining does indeed work on many hatchlings who are being picky. It makes it smell more I am sure and it has worked for me and many many others.

bmm

 

[moreptiles]

Another thing you might do before the next feeding attempt is to wash the pinky thoroughly with soap and water and then rinse it well to get rid of any residue soap. Mice raised in captivity will have urine and other waste on them and some picky snakes simply cannot stand to eat a mouse that smells like this.
Mark