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some assistance

L

leeuhm

New member
Right my corn snake constantly wants to come out and be handled everytime I walk in the room. He keeps going across the glass looking at me following my movement to see if I'm getting him out.

I mean first day he was here he wasn't active but all of a sudden he won't keep still just looks at me slithering all over the glass till I get him out.

How often does a corn normally get handled.. He more than happy to be handled over 40 mins per time which is up to 3 times a day or more depending on his behaviour.

Ps. He isn't eating yet but that's probably due to his new surroundings I suppose?
 
So I take it he isn't eating at the minute? Seems to watch me no matter where I am. It'll just sit there looking at me lol.

So how long does this breeding period last?

I mean I aint had this snake for long but he is normally fed. He shed not long ago and was tried to be fed before he came to me but never ate. And now he just keeps exploring his vivarium following me everywhere. I tried feeding him earlier but nothing.

And this is a weird one, when I turn off his light. ( Just light, not a heat source) his vivarium tempature drops a lot aswell. Even though its only heat source is what tempature the room is aswell as his heat matt.
 
How old is your snake? They all develop habits and personalities. I have some who come out when they want to be fed and others who are out every time I'm in the room. My adults like to be held so coming out and wanting to be taken out isn't unusual for them.
During breeding season, the males will often get very active and will stop eating as their minds turn towards breeding. Is yours definitely a boy and has he been bred before? Mine didn't start acting that way until after he'd started breeding.
 
He's 3 years old. Lol apparently he's male according to the guy I've had him off. And he's very active in his viv. Lol last night he was just looking at me through the glass at the closest end to me while I'm in bed. Soon as I moved to take a "whiz khalifa" he comes out his hide and spends time going round and up the glass. He just always wants to come out. (Which I don't mind I enjoy handling).
 
Yep - he's just the right age to start looking for lurve! That stage can last for several weeks, maybe even a couple of months. As long as he doesn't start loosing weight, just keep offering him food at his usual interval, until he decides to eat again. I'm afraid there's nothing you can do to speed the process up and a move at the start of it may have been pretty unsettling for him.

As for the temp dropping when you switch the light off - yes, I'd expect that. Unless it's an LED, any type of bulb will give off heat. As long as the heat mat is kept the right temp by a thermostat or dimmer, then the floor surface will remain warm enough for the Corn. Folks get worried about the air temp in a tank, but the snake's on the floor. If you measure the temperature on the floor immediately above the heat mat, then you'll be measuring what the snake experiences.

P.S. If a Corn gets too hot, they can get a bit hyperactive, so it's worth double-checking that the temp on the floor surface isn't getting over 90. You need to be aiming for about 85 to be safe, which will feel barely warm or even cool to human touch.
 
Yeah well looking at the thermoniters, he's between 71 - 75 at night. And 80 -85 during the day when I put the light on. It also ranges on how cold the house is. Sooner I get my digital thermoniters the better.ill atleast then have a better fixed reading.
 
I tried feeding him yesterday and there was no chance. No interest so I might leave him 2-3 days up to a week before trying again. He looks lively as hell and wanting to be handled all the time he sees me.
 
As a new arrival, he's probably best not being handled for a few days. He won't take any harm from it. Chances are he's not "asking to be handled" - he's just looking for an escape route and he may have figured out that he can get you to open the doors/lift the lid. They can train us up pretty well sometimes! New arrivals put a lot of effort into making sure they haven't missed a way out.

71-75 is too low for the warm side. If the floor temp really is that low, it could put him off eating. However I'd hold off boosting the temps until you check the floor surface temp with a digital thermometer. Chances are it's much warmer than you currently think (cardboard strip and plastic dial type thermometers can be over 20 degrees worng either way). If you touch the floor and it feels warm or hot, then my guess is that it's over 80 and possibly much higher.
 
Well I touch the floor and its slightly warm (luke-warm) I've got strip on one side and a strip on the other side and a strip going across the back of the vivarium which is 82. And the front ones are 75 and 71. On the strips.
 
Well all the equipment I have is what he had with previous owner, the heat matt is automatic one setting only, the light gives some heat off but I could still touch it with my hand after its been on 12hrs. Lol
 
The tempatures can't be far out or bang on because if it was over heated or under heated the snake wouldn't be so active would he? Hed find the coolest / warmest spot and stay there but he swaps between the hot and cold spots.
 
Pretty much the opposite could be true - the snake could be active because he's looking for a place to cool down or heat up and he can't find the right position.

In my experience, the strips can be 20+ degrees out. If it says 70, then then actual temp could be anywhere between 40 (hopefully you'd notice the house being that cold!) and 100+. I never trust those things.
 
Hmm well I asked a guy at pet store about them and he said their quite good as he's used all the gear from pet store all depends where the strips are set and etc. As he's had snakes over 30 odd years. Lol

The snake seems to go on his heat matt in his hide when he's after heat and to be fair it works quite well. I've touched it and can sense somewhat warm but not too warm. I've stuck a digital thermoniter on it also and it is at the right tempature so meh just will try him in a few days to see if he feeds.
 
Right I've checked the heat matt. Why is it one side of the heatmatt is warm and the other part is not?
 
leeuhm said:
Hmm well I asked a guy at pet store about them and he said their quite good as he's used all the gear from pet store all depends where the strips are set and etc. As he's had snakes over 30 odd years. Lol

The snake seems to go on his heat matt in his hide when he's after heat and to be fair it works quite well. I've touched it and can sense somewhat warm but not too warm. I've stuck a digital thermoniter on it also and it is at the right tempature so meh just will try him in a few days to see if he feeds.
Click to expand...

I could walk into several pet stores right now where the owners have had snakes for decades and they still wouldn't be able to tell me the first thing about proper husbandry. Trust what the people on this site tell you, those strip thermometers are useless. I've tried them out before too and even when they read 80 degrees, once I put a digital thermometer in, they were reading at over 130.
 
I'd wait a whole week. 5 days is usually the soonest that is recommended. If one of my snakes doesn't want to eat one week, I just wait until their next scheduled feeding day.
 
Ok ill wait a week.

It was just the guy I had him off said he feeds him every 3 weeks. Surely that is a little long? Thought it was every 2 weeks to feed, He seems fine and is drinking water.

Just waiting game to feed him. Lol

Btw he's 3yrs old.
 
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