I am planning on purchasing my first corn snake. The reptile shop I plan on getting the snake from only feed their snakes live feeders. It is much more simpler for me to feed it frozen/thawed for many reasons. Is it EASY to make the switch, or is it going to be HARD? Are there any ways of training the snake to eat frozen/thawed? Also do most heat matts come with thermostats? Do I REALLY NEED a thermostat with my heat matt.
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Switching from live to frozen/thawed feeders.And heat matts.
- Thread starter CXA14
- Start date
diamondlil
Mice! They taste so nice!
First off, yes you do need a thermostat, as without it unregulated heatmats can get hot enough to kill or cause neurological damage to your new snake. It's best to get the setup ready and stable before you bring home your new pet.
As for the feeding, most corns switch over easily. After the first week of owning it, personally I'd get a live pink for the first feeding. It's what the snake feeds on already and increases your chance of success. Put the snake in a small tub with airholes with the live pink and leave for a few hours.
For the next feeding, 5 days later, thaw a frozen pink in warm water, then pour just-boiled water from the kettle over it until it goes pale. drain and feed it, and good luck!
As for the feeding, most corns switch over easily. After the first week of owning it, personally I'd get a live pink for the first feeding. It's what the snake feeds on already and increases your chance of success. Put the snake in a small tub with airholes with the live pink and leave for a few hours.
For the next feeding, 5 days later, thaw a frozen pink in warm water, then pour just-boiled water from the kettle over it until it goes pale. drain and feed it, and good luck!
WestCoast_Redneck
New member
I've heard a TEMPORARY fix could be using a light dimmer? It lowers the wattage, or so I've heard. It's definitely not reliable, but I've heard some people have used it until they found/ordered a thermostat.
Just from personal experience, my kids bought the snake and I got stuck scrambling for all the set-up supplies. We went to Petsmart, where we were sold a heat lamp ( Found this site and promptly returned it), Under Tank Heater, an aquarium and screen lid ( Highly recommend against this!) and other useless stuff. The UTH quickly reached 120 degrees, leaving me stuck to regulate it. Of course I looked in every petstore around for a thermostat and couldn't find one.....Yet all petstores sell heat mats! I had to order my thermostat online, I honestly couldn't find one anywhere else.
Just from personal experience, my kids bought the snake and I got stuck scrambling for all the set-up supplies. We went to Petsmart, where we were sold a heat lamp ( Found this site and promptly returned it), Under Tank Heater, an aquarium and screen lid ( Highly recommend against this!) and other useless stuff. The UTH quickly reached 120 degrees, leaving me stuck to regulate it. Of course I looked in every petstore around for a thermostat and couldn't find one.....Yet all petstores sell heat mats! I had to order my thermostat online, I honestly couldn't find one anywhere else.
Nythain
New member
Actually, a rheostat (dimmer switch) is more than sufficient for people who A. have well climate controlled environments and B. don't have many temps to monitor. I've been running my rheostat for a little bit now, and after a day of temperature settling, I haven't had to adjust it at all really. I do keep a close eye on the temps, which would be a major hassle if I had more than one snake, and they'll fluctuate slightly based on room temperature but it's definitely a more suitable option than just temporary.
BloodyBaroness
Captain Titsworth
There is a difference between an actual rheostat and a lamp dimmer. (Just to spare everyone the confusion and make sure the OP is clear)
A rheostat that is made to bear an electrical load is okay to use for a while. It's not 100% ideal, but as long as you monitor temps it can last for a while.
A lamp dimmer is not meant to bear constant electrical load, it's meant to be used in short bursts and will burn out.
A rheostat that is made to bear an electrical load is okay to use for a while. It's not 100% ideal, but as long as you monitor temps it can last for a while.
A lamp dimmer is not meant to bear constant electrical load, it's meant to be used in short bursts and will burn out.
As stated You'll be way ahead by getting everything properly set up for your snake before obtaining your snake.
It'll be far easier for you and better for the young snake as temperatures are paramount to a healthy reptile.
Reostats vary the voltage to the UTH as you set it and takes some time to get it adjusted. It also does not react to large temperature differentials in the room.
If the room is 80 and and you set the reostat for 85 and the room drops to 60 at night, the UTH could drop to 70.
Most Thermostats don't vary the voltage but turn off the power to the UTH when it reaches the set point, then turns on when the temperature drops. The difference between the off and on points is called the Delta T or temperature differential.
Typical off/on thermostats have a Delta T of 2-3 degrees thats fine for the snakes but not for incubation. for that you would need a proportional
thermostat. These don't turn off or on but either vary the voltage or
pulse the voltage to maintain a very low delta T, sometimes less than a degree. All you need is good off/on thermostat like the hydrofarm pictured below and these run about 32 bucks from Amazon or ebay.
Hope this clears things up a bit.
Good luck
It'll be far easier for you and better for the young snake as temperatures are paramount to a healthy reptile.
Reostats vary the voltage to the UTH as you set it and takes some time to get it adjusted. It also does not react to large temperature differentials in the room.
If the room is 80 and and you set the reostat for 85 and the room drops to 60 at night, the UTH could drop to 70.
Most Thermostats don't vary the voltage but turn off the power to the UTH when it reaches the set point, then turns on when the temperature drops. The difference between the off and on points is called the Delta T or temperature differential.
Typical off/on thermostats have a Delta T of 2-3 degrees thats fine for the snakes but not for incubation. for that you would need a proportional
thermostat. These don't turn off or on but either vary the voltage or
pulse the voltage to maintain a very low delta T, sometimes less than a degree. All you need is good off/on thermostat like the hydrofarm pictured below and these run about 32 bucks from Amazon or ebay.
Hope this clears things up a bit.
Good luck
Attachments
Nythain
New member
Thanks for the clarification. I guess I'll have to keep an eye on mine. It's not a pre-built lamp dimmer, but it's also not a pre-built rheostat. I made a DIY using an extension cord, 600 watt dimmer switch, pvc electrical box, some tape and some twist caps.
Do all heat matts really get as hot as 120 degrees? Why would heat matts be sold without thermostats if the heat matt could kill the animal? How often would I leave on the heat matt? I've been told that It could be turned off when the cage reaches a desirable temperature. How long does it take for temps of the heat matt to get so hot that it burns the snake?
CaseyH
Corny, and proud of it
It would be wonderful if heat mats came with a thermostat as one unit, but the downside would be if that one unit failed in the on position, it could be devastating. I use an adjustable heat mat from Big Apple Pet Supply http://www.bigappleherp.com/Big-Apple-Adjust-A-Temp-Heat-Mats-Model-CA. I keep it on the low setting, but also have it attached to a Hydrofarm thermostat. When the temp dips below my pre-set temperature setting, the heat mat comes on low.
Right now Big Apple Pet Supply only has the smallest mat available, and it is pretty small. I'm not sure when the larger sizes will become available again.
Casey
Right now Big Apple Pet Supply only has the smallest mat available, and it is pretty small. I'm not sure when the larger sizes will become available again.
Casey
I tested Two Heats mats with an I/R thermometer and found the
hottest was a smaller Zilla that at 30 Minutes was 127 degrees.
The largest was a Flukers 11X23 I think. It read 103 degrees.
They must be used with a control of some sort either reostat
or preferably a thermostat.
With a proper control, you leave the heat mat on 24/7.
I suspect heat mats, tape or flexwatt is sold without controls
because of price and to allow the user a choice of controls.
Nythain
New member
Some get hotter, some don't get as hot, depends on the maker and purpose.
Heat mats are sold for various purposes from gardening to cold blooded animal care. Also, what is hot to a corn snake is a nice spring day to other types of snakes. I can only assume they're sold without built in thermostats for ease of manufacturing and cost efficiency. Also allowing the user options for how to control it for their purposes.
This would be controlled by the thermostat. Basic thermostats work by dialing in a desired temperature, then they will cut power to the heater until the temp lowers a few degrees, return power until desired temp is achieved, and repeat.
This varies from heat pad to type of snake. The basic rule is, you don't want the glass above the heat pad to get hot enough to burn the snake, they will burrow and they can't feel if their belly is too hot. It's the same reason you will hear anyone and everyone warn against EVER using a heat rock. In the world of corns, they should never be exposed to temperatures near or over 90F for fear of burning and or neurological damage.
Well, I have 6 Hydrofarm units and have not had any problems or failures. They're easy to set and hold even temperatures.
At about 32-35 on ebay or Amazon they're a good value.
I've only used One other and it's a Vivarium Electronics.
It's a proportional thermostat which for most owners is expensive and overkill.
I have no experience with others so can't comment.
I'm sure others will chime in.
Best of Luck!