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thermostats 30-50 dollars versus 90-145 dollars

some control more then one thing, like multiple heating and cooling and humidity devices. I have the Hygrofarm Jump Start Heat Mat thermostat, many people on here do, I got it from Amazon for $32.

When I can afford the better PVC enclosures I will also save up to buy one of the Herpstat systems for multiple units and better control of temperatures. Some of the really pricey ones are not just for turning on and off the heatmat many like the Herpstat has a different control method, alarms, day/night temp control features, you just have to find the products and read up on them and see which one fits your budget and your corn snakes needs as well.
 
Well there are different types, some are rheostats ( usually cheap ) they work like a dimmer switch on lights, you have to carefully "dial" it in little by little to get the right temp. then the moderate priced ones are usually digital, where you can set it for a certain temp and monitor with a digital thermometer and/or IR temp gun. I use both for my frog tank and now the snake set up as well. Then you get into the much more expensive ones with all the extra safety and control features. Really it all depends on your budget and how often you are willing to check the temps.

I bought something called a Hygrotherm controller for my frog tank as it does both humidity control and temp control for daytime and night since the frog needs a temp change cycle, and paid about 2x the price then what I did for the Hygrofarm temp control gadget I got for the snake tank but they are ever so worth it, a quick check on the readout on that and a peek at the other one while taking the readings on the temp gun and I know it is well within the guidelines it needs. but honestly you need something to maintain the heating even if it is just a rheostat to start with, and save up for a digital controller from amazon or something.
 
Hydrofarms work well for heat mats and stuff and are around $45. As for racks, I would use a herpstat or VE thermostat, which will run around $100 but will be much safer and have better accuracy. The more expensive models are built with a safety relay switch in case temps get too high.

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You'll also pay more to have a digital display and proportional control, as opposed to no display and dimming/pulse control.

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Don't buy a thermostat for $11, it WILL be crap and you'll have too problems. Lamp dimmers are around that price. If you're home all day and don't mind constantly monitoring/adjusting the temps, you can go for that.

If you can easily afford a $40 thermometer though, don't go the cheap route, buy the thermometer!
 
For about $70-80, Rancos are decent units that typically run for a long time. Most of my racks are on Herpstat and Vivarium Electronics currently.
 
Once I actually broke the bank on a herpstat 4, Ive been extremely happy with the change. Really great units

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i went with a jump start hydrofarm thermostat i found on ebay after going to pet supplies plus petsmart and lowes none of them had them and the lowes people gave me a wtf look
 
TyeW said:
Once I actually broke the bank on a herpstat 4, Ive been extremely happy with the change. Really great units

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i never break the bank unless its vet bills i always spend as little as possible so that i can afford vet care when/if they need 1
 
nickcorns85 said:
i never break the bank unless its vet bills i always spend as little as possible so that i can afford vet care when/if they need 1
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Going cheap on heating control could cause a lot more problems than a sick animal. You could lose your whole house in a fire. Not to mention proper temp control would prevent illness.
 
it depends on if you have multiple tank set ups or not. I have a 30 dollar zoo med thermostat that works great and takes care of two vivs but when I built my five tier viv stack I had to upgrade so I went for a Reptile Basics VE model. It works great and I haven't had any complaints about it. Personally I think rheostats are a little to finicky and I was definitely willing to pay more out of pocket to have an accurate digital reading. Also while it doesn't apply to corns it's best to get a higher end one for temeperature gradient scale and for the availability of night and day settings for basking species.
 
The probe will read off of the immediate area it's placed, if your UTH isn't evenly distributing I think it's best you get a new UTH as well that could lead to some problems down the road as well.
 
i hope not because this tank cant take anymore heaters because of the gunk they leave behind when you peel them off i had to tape this last 1 down because it kept falling off
 
Ultratherm mats are a great solution. They are not the stick-on kind like Zoo-Med or whatever. You can affix them to the enclosure however you'd like.
 
nickcorns85 said:
i hope not because this tank cant take anymore heaters because of the gunk they leave behind when you peel them off i had to tape this last 1 down because it kept falling off
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I know I'm the LAST person you want advice from, but I have found that for all my UTHs that have adhesive I don't stick them right to the bottom of the tank. I pull out a piece of aluminum foil just over twice the size of the UTH, peel the back of the UTH and place the UTH in the middle of the foil so it is stuck to the foil.

Fold the extra foil over it so it is fully wrapped and then you can tape it to the bottom of the tank. When you have to remove it you can just peel the tape off, it won't damage the wires or the pad of the UTH and the foil won't impair the UTH.

You also mentioned there is a lot of gunk on the bottom of the tank, rubbing alcohol or Goo Gone will take it off with a little work.
 
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