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Advice wanted on Most versatile rack?

DLena

DLena

Corns are goram shiny!
I have my 6 corns in Neodesha 36" cages and love them. For my 2 smallest snakes, under 70 grams, I had to fold up cardboard and slide it between the two pieces of glass at the top because of the gasket gap. I have three hatchings ordered from this year's breeding season and I need housing for them that is super secure, because they are going to be tiny (and I'm nervous :awcrap:because I've never had new babies before - my youngest was 7 months old).

I've decided to go with a rack for them, but I'm trying to find one that holds bigger than hatching tubs, but won't have any gaps that tiny babies could exploit... or are there racks out there that are adaptable? ...that could accommodate tubs for hatchlings, then would take larger sized tubs as the snakes grew? :idea:
 
That's tough. I have the 16 slot Reptile Basics Iris hatchling racks. Even that isn't secure without cardboard shims (no matter what the company tells you!!!). I have cardboard under the bins in some racks, and other racks have rubber shelf liner cut to fit and taped down with aluminum tape. I like both. I also have their yearling rack, and no way is it tight enough for babies. REALLY nice for yearlings. Then all my adults are in Animal Plastics Economy Racks 66 quart racks.

The good news is, whatever you choose for bins, if you use a standard soldering iron to melt holes, even a 4g hatchling can't get out. BUT be really careful with hole size if you are running probes into the actual bins.
 
That's tough. I have the 16 slot Reptile Basics Iris hatchling racks. Even that isn't secure without cardboard shims (no matter what the company tells you!!!). I have cardboard under the bins in some racks, and other racks have rubber shelf liner cut to fit and taped down with aluminum tape. I like both. I also have their yearling rack, and no way is it tight enough for babies. REALLY nice for yearlings. Then all my adults are in Animal Plastics Economy Racks 66 quart racks.

The good news is, whatever you choose for bins, if you use a standard soldering iron to melt holes, even a 4g hatchling can't get out. BUT be really careful with hole size if you are running probes into the actual bins.
 
Could I get a rack that holds larger, yearling bins, but buy bins with lids to keep my hatchlings in? Then just put the back end of the bin on the heat tape? Or can they push out of the lids?
And how do you solve the hole issue for a probe when it comes to hatchlings?
 
If I buy racks and need to raise up the bins to get a tight fit, will the heat go through the cardboard enough to hear the bins?
 
The hatchling racks I use have back heat. I melt the hole just big enough for the probe to go through. Then the wire takes up enough space. However, I had a bin that had a bigger probe, and for whatever reason, the probe wasn't in, and the baby got out the hole and died. My only accidental death, ever. I still feel terrible. Before his first shed, even. Nice.

Reptile Basics come with bins, but no lids. Animal Plastics don't come with bins.
 
That must feel awful. I had an iguana way back when I was about 11, in the early 70's. I didn't take care of it right at all and it died. I still carry the guilt. I so don't want to mess up my baby corns.
If I did belly heat, lids, styrofoam on the lid to make it fit tight, very small holes for air, that would work?
If I go for bins with out lids, get back heat and use card board or styrofoam on the bottom, very small holes for air?
In either case, the probe hole could go very low on the side with the screen velcro'd to the outside of the bin?
Also, if I get a rack with more shelves than I need, is there an easy way to cut power to that part of the heat tape so I could use the drawers for storage?
Sorry for so many questions.
 
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