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Corn snake hasn't eaten since August 23

M

msteggy

New member
I am a first time corn snake owner, and have done alot of research before I purchased my sunglow cs. My hatchling is approximately 3 months old, 18 inches long and as thick as a pencil. I have him in a 10 gallon tank with aspen substrate, UTH located beneath the hut. I use a 60 watt daylight (blue) buld and a 40 watt nighttime (red) bulb. The ambient air is monitored around 75-83F while the substrate temp is 78-86F.

snakesetup-1.jpg


My concern is that my sunglow refuses to eat. He nearly dodges the pinky and curls in the corner of his feeding tank. The last time he has eaten was August 23 (current date Sept 17). I've had my corn snake for just over 3 weeks. My first mistake was over handling him for the first week, which was probably the reason from him not eating. Since then I have not handled him and only open the screen to change his water. He hides all day and all night under the large area of the drift wood. I have tried thawing the pinky in warm water, taunting, leaving the pinky in his feeding tank with him for 3 hours with a towel over the tank for privacy and braining it. I attempt to feed my corn every 4-5 days. I have seen my corn drink water twice, but possibly more since he may come out at night (I never see him).

The viv is in my room and when I'm home from university I usually have the tv on (not too loud), also my house has hardwood floors so vibration can be felt when walking. I don't think this could be the reason for his stress...but I could be wrong. How long can hatchlings go without eating, I'm worried I'll find him dead one of these days...HELP I'm getting desperate :crying:
 
Try feeding every five to seven days. Feed at night and in a dim room. Try tuna juice or chicken broth (not the same time). Washing the pinky with Ivory soap could help. Look up feeding tips for more ideas.

Good Luck :cheers:
 
Hi there. It's not very popular on this forum, but if all else fails try a live pinkie in a seperate container. I haven't had my snake long, but he was used to being fed live so I did the same. I do plan on going to frozen as the prey gets larger. Anyway, he didn't bad an eye and ate the pinkie and he didn't care that I was watching. Good luck.
 
If nothing works there is nothing wrong with live pinkie. However, why the lights if you have a UTH you dont' need the lights. Especially not daytime and night time. You should have a hide on each side, my guess is your snake spends time under the water dish, which is fine. Also feed in seperate tub as he could easily ingest the substrate.
 
susang said:
If nothing works there is nothing wrong with live pinkie. However, why the lights if you have a UTH you dont' need the lights. Especially not daytime and night time. You should have a hide on each side, my guess is your snake spends time under the water dish, which is fine. Also feed in seperate tub as he could easily ingest the substrate.
Click to expand...

The lights also provide extra heat, I'm only taking the advice of the shop I purchased the corn from. Without the light the tempt drop to 75F during the day and possibly colder at night. My corn hides under the drift would all day which I monitored to roughly 80F around that area (possibly cooler uner the wood)
 
You've asked for help and that is what most of us are trying to do. Maybe it's really cold in Manitoba, but the UTH should provide a temp of well over the suggested 80-85 on the warm side. I use UTH or red light for heat, as I think the majority of people do. Your temp probe should be under the substrate, where the heat source is, the stick on kind is not very accurate, especially where you have it as your snake doesn't hang out in that area. The pinkie needs to be really warm, also I would certainly try live. While I respect the fact that your pet store gave you info on heat, not many people on this forum put a lot of stock in what pet stores say, as for the most part they are not correct on thier info. Just trying to help, susan
 
Was your corn eating at the petstore? If so, you can try getting a pinky from them. The pinks you have may smell different. Another idea is put the pink in a paper bag (with snake) and leave that stapled shut in the viv overnight. Sometimes they eat if they have nothing else to concentrate on. Remember... patience. I'd also agree that you should space out your attempts a bit more. Go with Lennycorn's 5-7 days. Try to pick your snake up in the most un-stressful way possible, making sure (s)he sees you coming.

Good luck.
 
Corn snakes are generally night time movers and eaters. I personally would not like the light on me all the time. It may indicate to it that any predators could find it easier. I have the red light (heat)on mine for heat day and nite but only use the fluorescent when i ck on them. changing waters or are cleaning and so forth.
It is said incorrect temps can be a cause of not eating. Maybe you can reck them with a probe ?? Hopefully he/she will eat soon for you.Good luck
 
If you need the light for heat, switch the bulb to a night glo or a less bright bulb, or, a heat emitter (bulb which is not a bulb and puts out heat, not light.

I too use a light for ambient heat with my Ball Pythons. I have to take extra measures to keep the humidity up though becuase the overhead heat sucks moisture from the air. I use a combo of aspen and coco peat for this reason. I have chunks of moistened coco peat undernieth the aspen to keep humidity up too. I place them in the corners so I know where they are and can water them easily. Coco peat is easily digested, mold resistant, and smells nice too!
 
susang said:
You've asked for help and that is what most of us are trying to do. Maybe it's really cold in Manitoba, but the UTH should provide a temp of well over the suggested 80-85 on the warm side. I use UTH or red light for heat, as I think the majority of people do. Your temp probe should be under the substrate, where the heat source is, the stick on kind is not very accurate, especially where you have it as your snake doesn't hang out in that area. The pinkie needs to be really warm, also I would certainly try live. While I respect the fact that your pet store gave you info on heat, not many people on this forum put a lot of stock in what pet stores say, as for the most part they are not correct on thier info. Just trying to help, susan
Click to expand...

I hope you didn't take it the wrong way, I was merely stating that because I am new with snakes the reptile shop suggested I buy the lights as well as the UTH. I took your advice and removed the lights over night and the substrate tempts were about 77F. So i'll probably eliminate the light until temps in Winnipeg drop to less then 10C. I know it's hard to see but the probe is actually under the substrate and the stick on thermometer is only an estimate for the ambient air. All the info I provided about temps I used the probe to obtain. I will be attempting to feed my snake again on Wednesday, leaving 6 days since my last attempt. I will try the paper bag method if my attempts of feeding fail. Also I will leave the lights off.
 
msteggy, I commend you for trying so hard to get it right. I would move your stick on thermometer low at substrate level so you can see the air temp. The probe reading is most important. I don't know how squimish you are, but your snake may want a live pinkie. That may help trigger a feeding response to see a live prey. Good luck and relax. :dancer:
 
I recognize you :p
I think I also showed some concern for the light as well, but if that situation is being rectified then good.
 
Other than making sure of the proper temps and eliminating the lights, I would say you need better hides. The half-logs are not the best as they leave too much open and the snake doesn't feel secure. I would say get 2 small hides that are totally enclosed with just a small doorway, not much bigger than the snake can fit in. Half coconut shells work well, or for a cheaper alternative get some very small plastic plant saucers, like 4" for a hatchling. Cut out a doorway and turn it upside down as a hide. Around here you can get them in WalMart or Home Depot for about $0.50 each.

The natural looking, decorated viv is cool but better for a well established snake that is eating.
 
yea the hut wasn't the best selection. I'll probably go out and purchase a small cave. But hopefully I still have enough time for my corn to get use to it before it starvs to death. Does anyone know how long hatchlings can go without eating for?
 
Don't know if anybody has touched on this or not, but are you putting the pinky in 1st then putting your snake in? There have been times my snake won't eat because I put him/her in the seperate feeding tank, then I add the mouse rather quickly after and my snake is too annoyed to eat. But if I add the snake wait like a minute then add the mouse sometimes/most times he eats. Also check if your snake is in the process of shedding. Another thing I've done (I don't do it anymore) is let me snake soak in water for like 10 minutes before I try and feed him, that way if he still has food in his system he poops it out (Not sure if this is a recommend treatment) Then I'll dry him off and put him in a seperate container and then feed him after he has settled in.
 
I usually out him in the feeding tank then follow with immediately trying to feed him. SHould I leave him in the tank for 5 mins or so before adding the mouse?
 
I have 2 that prefer the cooler side of their viv. So I leave the heat as low til they eat, then raise the heat. They do great with this. Mine come out at night always. I would leave the pinkie next to the hide with some type of meat juice (chicken broth, tuna as stated above) leave it over night.
My guys are in the kids area. So they get tons of noise during the day. It does not bother them at all. Have no trouble getting them to eat.
Removing that light may be what you need. :shrugs:
Has your snake had a shed with you? If not this could be what's about to happen. Some people find it hard to tell when their snakes are in blue.
 
Before you begin to panic, I would try feeding live prey just to get your snake to eat something. A pinky mouse han no teeth or claws that will injur you snake. I was in a similar situation last year when I brought home my first hatchling. She would show no interest in any pre-killed prey. I've finnaly figured out that if I leave a f/t mouse in her tank overnight, the mouse will be gone by morning. I've yet to witness her eat a f/t mouse. I've only seen the aftermath of a fat snake and stinky poop.
 
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