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Correct Feeding Guide

T

tamlynnlove

New member
Hello there!

New to the forum, I have a Red Rat Snake who's about 8 months old... I was informed the feeding pattern was one pinky every week until he slowly gets bigger and then switch to a fuzzy but I am second guessing this now. He has barely grown and I'm concerned I am accidentally underfeeding him. Please tell me if this is wrong and how to fix the situation!

Thanks in Advance!

Tam
 
Welcome to the forum!

Most here use a guideline called the Munson plan with slight variations. First thing is getting a kitchen scale or a precision scale (in grams) and weigh your snake. From there you can select the prey weight.

You have to adjust the prey to your snake size. When they are on pinkies they grow very little, but once you change to fuzzies they will usuallt have a growth sprout.
At 8 months he should probably be on fuzzies, but if you've been feeding pinkies every week he will be smaller and will need prey adjusting. One pinky is probably too little for him at this stage.

Munson plan is as follows:
When they're on single pinks (2-3g), every 4-5 days. (Snake = 4-15g)
-Double pinks (3g x 2) every 4-5 days. (Snake = 16-23g)
-Small fuzzies (5-7g) every 5-6 days. (Snake = 24-30g)
-Regular fuzzies (7-9g) every 5-6 days (Snake = 30-50g)
-Hoppers (9-12g) every 5-6 days (Snake = 51-90g)
-Weaned (14-20g) every 7 days (Snake = 91-170g)
-Adult (24-30g) every 7-x days (Snake = 170+)
-Jumbo Adults (40-50g) every 7-x days (Snake = 400g+)

This is a very agrresive plan, so most also tend to feed the smaller prey, on the longest period and move up prey size when the snake is 5-10gr above the starting weight.

I hope this helps you select the correct prey for your snake to grow correctly and make you feel more confident.
 
This is my first snake and I will be feeding it soon some questions I have are am I to hold the fuzzy in my tongs until she strikes and zombie dance it until then or zombie it and then drop it next to her and how far in front of her head can she see


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
you can do either. Whatever your snake prefers. You can drop it beside the snake if you're worried about using tongs. If she doesn't take it in 10 or 15 minutes, then dangle it in front of her head and see if she's interested.
 
Congrats on your new snake. You should start a presentation thread and post us some pics of your snakey (if you haven't already done so). We love to see each others'! Though for asking It's better if you start your own thread for people to find and answer you faster.

Anyway, you may do both, depends on your snake. Some want privacy to eat and want you to leave them alone and covered (no zombie dances), some don't.
I've always zombie danced with the tongs to encourage natural striking behaviour (they don't become aggressive to you by doing so, don't worry).
I only have one snake and I understand this is tedious if you have a big collection (not your case, either).
I would say: zombie dance, and if your snake doesn't strike or is very scared, then leave the mouse in the tube you feed it, ¡close the lid!, and cover it or leave the snake in a dark room for 30mins or 1h, then check.
 
You've both already gotten great advice, so all I can add is welcome to the forum and best wishes! :wavey:
 
Pictures of Ruby

Well I did start a new thread with some pictures of Ruby on there but just in case you all did not get a chance to see her here she is....
 

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Just fed my ruby last night and she willingly ate, I waited until she had it down half way of her body before I put her back in her home. Now I know I'm supposed to wait 48 hours before I hold her but if she is active and moving around the cage after only 12 or 24 hours could I pick her up or still give her the 48 hours just in case? Cause it's kinda hard for me to leave her alone but I also don't want to stress her out!!


Phillip Hunter from iPhone
 
I would say 24 at least, but it depends on temperature a lot. The bulge in the stomach should be barely visible or not at all.
Handling them when they become active as usual is a good way to start noticing their routine.
 
I guess you could say so, but sometimes they are active even after feeding, it depends on the snake, so the 24h are a must anyway. Wait that 24-48h and then handle. Since this is the first feeding with you you could let her do her thing until she comes out, and this way you will get an idea of how long she needs to digest. You also need time to adjust to your snake.

I came to the idea of only handling my snake if he is out and about, even if he's not digesting or shedding. If he doesn't feel like coming out why should I take him out from his hide? This way I am sure I won't stress him. He usually comes out every evening, so I end up handling him every day anyway.
 
I would give it a full 24 after eating and believe 48 is better. Handling too soon can cause a regurge. Prevention on that is worth a pound of cure. Bringing your snake back to full health after a regurge is a 4 to 6 week process when you can't handle at all.
 
The general rule of thumb is to wait until they poop. That's usually about 48 hours (give or take) after they eat. But then again all this depends on the temperature and the snake. My snake usually poops somewhere on the 2nd or 3rd day.

If you handle your snake too soon, you can cause them to regurgitate their meal. This is bad for the snake and can harm it. Then again if he hasn't pooped yet, he could poop on you as well. (There are several threads in this forum of snakes pooping on their owners.)

The only way to be sure is to wait until after they poop. That way you don't have to worry about them pooping on you or regurgitating.

I always waited for my snake to poop before handling him when he was little. But now I can safely handle him after about 24 to 48 hours. (How do i know this?) Because when I open the cage door, he crawls out into my hands. If he didn't want to be handled he would not do this.

I guess what I'm saying here is- it's best to let the snake tell you when he wants to be handled, and if he doesn't tell you or you can't tell, then for the health and safety of the animal you should probably wait 48 hours just to be safe.
 
I also wait for the poop, which except in shed, is on day 2 or 3 after eating. In fact that's another sign mine is going into shed-- no poop. Now that doesn't prevent me or my bed from getting pooped on. Mine usually poops again on day 4 or 5 after eating. This happens after I let him crawl around. All of a sudden he'll freeze, lift the tail directly after the vent, and then you can actually see his muscles undulate before the liquid first and then the solid waste.

I just rinse the blanket, or sheet, (or whatever) in the laundry tub and then wash immediately. It's really easy to clean up this way. If you are concerned on your skin, after washing it off, just use hand sanitizer. I bleach my sinks, but the rest of my clean up is soap and water.

Don't fear the poop! It's washable.
 
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