boricua00735
one eyed brown guy
I built 2 adult racks with 41 qt tubs and i need to know what size flexwatt would be best 13 inch or 4 inch. Also if anyone know where to the best place to purchase flexwatt and clamps it would be greatly appreciated.
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Help with Flexwatt
- Thread starter boricua00735
- Start date
heatwave
Certified Herp-a-holic
I use 4'' on my 41 quart tubs, it really depends on how warm the room temp is, whether you are using belly heat or back/side heat and if you are putting the tubs sideways or deep. (IE if the tape is running down the length of the tub or the short end) If you are using belly heat and your room temp is normal room temps then 4'' is plenty. I bought mine from reptilebasics.com. Great prices.
boricua00735
one eyed brown guy
Room temp is about 72 average and the tubs go in long ways dimensions for the racks are 34.5 '' H X 18 '' W X 36'' L. So the 4'' inch will suffice i take it. I am glad you wrote me because I was about to order the 11 inch and 3 inch for the 6 qt tub rack. Thanks for the reply and for the site it is cheaper than what i found on bean farm.
heatwave
Certified Herp-a-holic
Oh yes, at those temps 4'' is just fine. You wont be using much at all to heat. The big 11'' and 16'' is really for back heat when you are heating the whole RACK through wood not just making a belly heat spot on the tubs. A couple of pointers for building racks:
You can save yourself a lot of wiring and headache if you "snake" your heat tape along the bottom of the shelf, then down the side of the next shelf, then across that shelf, then down etc etc. That way you dont have to wire each individual shelf, plus you get additional "side" heat where the heat tape rests against the edges of the tub. Just make sure you make 4.5'' grooves for the heattape to slide through. the downside is you have to buy a couple more feet of tape.
Remember that unless you have your rack sitting on top of something, the bottom rack will always be a few degrees cooler then your top rack.
If you are only using one thermostat make sure you put the probe outside the tub ontop of the heattape, so you get a good acurate reading of how hot that tape is.
Reptilebasics will cut your heattape to whatever lengths you need AND pre-wire it for you, for free. You just have to ask them, give them the demensions, and buy how ever many wiring kits you need.
REMEMBER TO GET A THERMOSTAT!!!! Heattape is USELESS without a good thermostat.
Since 72 in of itself is just fine for the cool side of their cage, all they need is an additional hotspot so even 3'' would be ok if you wanted to do it!
Corns are so easy!
You can save yourself a lot of wiring and headache if you "snake" your heat tape along the bottom of the shelf, then down the side of the next shelf, then across that shelf, then down etc etc. That way you dont have to wire each individual shelf, plus you get additional "side" heat where the heat tape rests against the edges of the tub. Just make sure you make 4.5'' grooves for the heattape to slide through. the downside is you have to buy a couple more feet of tape.
Remember that unless you have your rack sitting on top of something, the bottom rack will always be a few degrees cooler then your top rack.
If you are only using one thermostat make sure you put the probe outside the tub ontop of the heattape, so you get a good acurate reading of how hot that tape is.
Reptilebasics will cut your heattape to whatever lengths you need AND pre-wire it for you, for free. You just have to ask them, give them the demensions, and buy how ever many wiring kits you need.
REMEMBER TO GET A THERMOSTAT!!!! Heattape is USELESS without a good thermostat.
Since 72 in of itself is just fine for the cool side of their cage, all they need is an additional hotspot so even 3'' would be ok if you wanted to do it!
Corns are so easy!
Last edited:
SquamishSerpents
Katia
I don't suggest 4". That only covers about 10% of the bin. There is new 6" heat tape and that is what I would recommend. The new style of heat tape is also more efficient and is said to have fewer hot spots (more consistency) over the length of heat tape.
I can get you a link where to buy the new style, and another plus to the new stuff is it comes with much better connectors. You literally need zero know-how and no tools. I think they will even make the connections for you free of charge. Just hold up and I'll grab the link!
I can get you a link where to buy the new style, and another plus to the new stuff is it comes with much better connectors. You literally need zero know-how and no tools. I think they will even make the connections for you free of charge. Just hold up and I'll grab the link!
SquamishSerpents
Katia
Here is the new style:
http://www.reptilebasics.com/heat-tape
And oops I lied, making the connections yourself requires a one-hole-punch and some crimping pliers. But I do still believe they make the connections for you free of charge, so long as you purchase the crimp sets.
http://www.reptilebasics.com/thg-heattape-connections
http://www.reptilebasics.com/heat-tape
And oops I lied, making the connections yourself requires a one-hole-punch and some crimping pliers. But I do still believe they make the connections for you free of charge, so long as you purchase the crimp sets.
http://www.reptilebasics.com/thg-heattape-connections
SquamishSerpents
Katia
The OP said his bins slide in lengthwise so I would assume they mean the heat tape would be covering 4 out of 36 inches. Heat tape on each shelf should be width of the bin, not length of the bin. Doing heat tape that runs the entire length of a 41 quart isn't recommended because that only gives them a gradient of 16" to choose from.
So about 11% of the length of the tub would be covered by heat. I have 2 strips of 4 inch in my 41 quart racks. 2 strips is nice for winter when you need the extra heat, and you can unplug one in the summer when it's warm and to reduce heating costs. Obviously this costs more $ for startup when you're buying the heat tape, but the extra cost is minimal.
So about 11% of the length of the tub would be covered by heat. I have 2 strips of 4 inch in my 41 quart racks. 2 strips is nice for winter when you need the extra heat, and you can unplug one in the summer when it's warm and to reduce heating costs. Obviously this costs more $ for startup when you're buying the heat tape, but the extra cost is minimal.
SquamishSerpents
Katia
Also, NEVER DO THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The probe for the thermostat must always, always ALWAYS be placed OUTSIDE of any and all bins. If you place it inside you can't use tape to secure it because if that tape gets stuck to your snake, you and your snake are gonna have a bad time. You cannot cover the probes with tape, anyways as tape traps heat and will cause inaccurate operation.
IF you DO NOT secure the probe down with tape, and it gets knocked loose, your thermostat is going to think the heat source is not getting hot enough and it will crank up the power to 100%. Heat tape can and will get up to 130+ which is more than enough to burn your snake. I've seen it with my own eyes.
Lose lose situation if you place the probe inside of the tub. Place the thermoSTAT probe outside of the bin. Place the therMOMETER probe inside of the bin, adjust thermostat accordingly. They won't have the same reading.
Attachments
heatwave
Certified Herp-a-holic
If they slide in lengthwise, IE the heated section is 36'' long by 4'' wide, which is what I am understanding, then that is 25% of the cage and in my experience provides a fine gradient, as they still have 3/4 of the width of the tub to thermoregulate I have 5 racks set up that way and never had a problem. I use "width" tape on my 15 quart and 6 quart racks, but countersink it and run it lengthwise on my 34 quart and 41 quart racks.
If they are sliding in deep, meaning the heat tape only covers 4'' X 16'' then I agree, 4'' is not enough, the OP would be better off with 6-8'' of heat tape covering the width of the bin...
If they are sliding in deep, meaning the heat tape only covers 4'' X 16'' then I agree, 4'' is not enough, the OP would be better off with 6-8'' of heat tape covering the width of the bin...
heatwave
Certified Herp-a-holic
The probe should go outside the tub. This was a typo on my part. All of my probes are outside of the tub. I meant to type be sure NOT to etc etc.
SquamishSerpents
Katia
Hopefully the OP clears it up.
They said they go in long-ways, and most standard racks are build to be deep and narrow instead of shallow and wide, if you know what I mean. I suppose because it takes up less space on a wall, though will stick out more. So I am leaning more towards their racks being the same dimensions as mine.
The ones in the far-right are 41 quart CB70 bins.
OP let us know what is happening so we can get you up and running!
They said they go in long-ways, and most standard racks are build to be deep and narrow instead of shallow and wide, if you know what I mean. I suppose because it takes up less space on a wall, though will stick out more. So I am leaning more towards their racks being the same dimensions as mine.
The ones in the far-right are 41 quart CB70 bins.
OP let us know what is happening so we can get you up and running!
heatwave
Certified Herp-a-holic
I think this means his rack is exactly like mine, 36'' long and 18'' deep, which means the tape would run lengthwise.
dave partington
Crazy Dave
I get flexwatt and all the clamps cords etc from boasandballs.com
I have found it is easiest to install the flexwatt during construction of the rack, to simply get a 44 ft long piece of the 4 inch, and undulate it so it slips between the shelf and sidewall (be careful not to run a screw through it), taping down the edges with aluminum tape as I go. In the end it only requires one clamp, instead of a clamp on every shelf.
I have found it is easiest to install the flexwatt during construction of the rack, to simply get a 44 ft long piece of the 4 inch, and undulate it so it slips between the shelf and sidewall (be careful not to run a screw through it), taping down the edges with aluminum tape as I go. In the end it only requires one clamp, instead of a clamp on every shelf.
boricua00735
one eyed brown guy
Sorry ive taken so long to answer i am at work its inventory day so fun. The rack is 34 inch tall 36 inch deep and 18 wide. The heat tape will be going horizontally across the 18 inch wide part. Thermostats i have i will be using the helix dps1000. Squamish they are like your racks but five high two racks side by side. Sorry for the delay and if i missed any answers let me know i will be off aroubd 230 pt. Thabks everyone for your replies i will post pics when i get home of the racks.
SquamishSerpents
Katia
Oh yuck, inventory is never ever fun!
I would recommend the 6" heat tape in your case! Or like I said even 2 stripe of the 4" to really fine-tune your heat gradient. Not required, though but I'd be going for more than 4" of heat.
I would recommend the 6" heat tape in your case! Or like I said even 2 stripe of the 4" to really fine-tune your heat gradient. Not required, though but I'd be going for more than 4" of heat.
boricua00735
one eyed brown guy
Sorry guys had 2 and a half hours OT today here is the rack. It is my first rack so i was a little off on the height so the top tubs go with the lid on. Ok so i found the 6'' heat tape reptilebasics has the best prices i have found so far. I have one more question if i use the 6" heat tape and have them cut to a foot so they are 6X12 would that suffice or should i run it about 16-17"? per shelf? Since they charge by foot i am thinking about just getting 10 feet.
