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GSpot2K

GSpot2K

New member
Hi,

I'm Gordon, 22, live in the UK.

I have been after a snake for a while, my work collegue's son is wanting to give his corn snake up. all i know is that it is 4' long white and orange, and is fed on live prey (is this a problem as i've read on a few sites that it is, is it possible to feed from live prey to go on to feed on frozen/thawed prey?)

I'm really after the beginners pep talk if anybody can give me pointers and information (genral everyday sorta stuff)

Thank You.

G
 
Gordon,

You are always better feeding frozen thawed. Less chance of your snake getting injured, and much easier on you to feed. I personally have not see a corn snake that will not take f/t, and we have had ones that ate only live or fresh killed when we received them I switch them over right away. Not sure about eveybody else, but as long as it is in the rodent family, it does not have to move they are more then hapy to pig out on it!! Corn snakes are pretty easy to take care of, I know you will enjoy it!

Kristina
 
Thank You Kristina,

I certainly am looking forward to being a snake keeper :D

Can you think of anything which is commonly overlooked? or just some general tips. the internet can be a very contradictory placee sometimes :nope:
 
I live in Southern Arizona so I do not have to worry much about heating tanks and tubs, but that is something that you need to keep in mind for a happy corn. Make sure they have there warm and cool end with a hide on each end. A water bowl big enough for your corn to get into. Make sure that you are using a substrate that your snake can not swallow when you are feeding it. I use paper towels on all my corns, kings, pits and leos. Easier to clean and keep an eye on what is going on in there. Corns can also be excellent escape artists if given a chance, one small opening and they are off and away. I keep all my babies in she boxes with the lids on them, as they get bigger they get moved into sweater boxes and larger iris containers in a rack (just remember if they can get there head through an opening, there body will follow). I know there are many people on here that can give you alot more advise then I can (I have only been keeping corns for 2 year). But I am more then happy to help you out. PM me if you would like.

Kristina
 
KRISSYK said:
Gordon,

I personally have not see a corn snake that will not take f/t
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, I've got one. My '05 blizzard female accepted f/t for her second through eighth feeding, went into shed (second shed ever for this snake), and has refused every f/t since. She won't even take a pre-killed mouse, even if it was killed moments before the feeding attempt. If it ain't fightin', she ain't bitin'. I've tried braining, bait and switch, live and f/t offered together, pre-kill, etc.. Nothing's working. Her male counterpart, who is probably her sibling/clutchmate, refuses f/t after every shed. He seems to need a live one to kick-start his feeding response. Then he will accept f/t until his next shed is complete.

Frustrating, but I constantly remind myself that a finicky feeder is better than a non-feeder.

Welcome GSpot2K. Hope you enjoy this site.
 
Roy,

Have you tried a small rat pink? I had 2 babies this year that were being problem feeders on rat pinks (that is what we breed) and we have a friend that had 2 babies that were being problem feeders on mouse pinks. We traded snakes and now neither of us is having a problem now. The problem is, you have to get them when they are a day or less old to be small enough for a hatchling.


GSPOT2K

Kathy Loves book is a great place to learn corn info.


Kristina
 
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