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i need some advice help :(

Seamus, the photo makes it pretty hard to really see what is happening. Do you really think the color was orange, or was it white with an orange tint.

What ever the case, I agree that after 14 days it is not a regurge. I would suggest feeding the snake and she how she does.
 
Seamus, the photo makes it pretty hard to really see what is happening. Do you really think the color was orange, or was it white with an orange tint.

What ever the case, I agree that after 14 days it is not a regurge. I would suggest feeding the snake and she how she does.
yeah and that was on my mind feeding a pinky head and see how it goes. btw its a him :p (at least thats what my newbie poping showed lol)
 
LOL, when a newie pops a female that means he still doesn't know what he has. Is it female or is it a male that didn't pop? :)
 
no i said its a male :p thats what the popping showed, 2 hemipenes
tough my ball could be the one tricking me.
now something crazy happened to me.
i found blaze outside the viv this afternoon lying outside i dunno how he got out. i put him back in and seeled the glass doors of the vivarium with tape. now im thinking if i would feed him or not, and im walking around thinking and i give a look on the place where my girlfriend's dwarfhamster is and i see blaze there looking at her as if he wanted to eat her (she's 10times wider then him lol). i dunno how he got out and made all that distance :|
 
i offered him a pinky head and he ate instantly i think he was hungry (well seeing he tried to eat a dwarf hamster) i hope he will keep the pinky head down!!!
 
seems like the pinky head wasn't enough for him , he's still runing around trying to get out. i think i should ignore him and leave him with the pinky head in the next 7days right?
 
Absolutely. Slow and steady with the feeding.

And you need to try and find out how he got out, because you can bet he'll be straight out the same way before you know what's happened.
 
I'd say yes, lets wait and see how he does. If there are no problems give him a whole pinkie in 7 days.
 
I'd say yes, lets wait and see how he does. If there are no problems give him a whole pinkie in 7 days.
hmm i was gonna try to give him another pinky head, then half pinks for 4 feedings and then whole pinks. should i really switch to a whole pink by the next feeding if he keeps the head down?
 
I think I would. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong. I don't think you need to go that slowly if the snake is doing alright.
 
If it was an occasional regurger then I'd say go for it, but given this little guy's history, I'd be cautious and feed very slowly.

His problems seem to start when feeding is bumped up.
 
If it was an occasional regurger then I'd say go for it, but given this little guy's history, I'd be cautious and feed very slowly.

His problems seem to start when feeding is bumped up.
yes like he used to keep down pinkies for 5feedings but when i increased a bit the size to a big pinky (peach pinkies?) it regurged. so i think i'll feed another pinky head, then cut the 3pinkies that have no heads in half and fead those, then go to half pinkies with the head or whole pinkies maybe. dunno im confused.

Asbit time for one of your feeding plans again this time starting with pinky heads please?
 
What about cutting the larger pink in half when the snake has eaten long enough to try bumping up? Then he would be swallowing two kinda tiny bits instead of a big bit?
 
Just please remember what I mentioned to you last time and mentioned again below, Blaze may not fit into the next mouse size in just 6 feedings, so you need to get the digital scale to know if he should move up in mouse size based on his weight and based on not regurging and not having abnormal poop/urates. As well I am not an expert or a vet and if this was my snake as I have said several times before, I would be getting any vet, reptile or not to at least do a fecal float for parasites etc, esp. with the history of regurges, abnormal poop/urates and lack of growth.


1) Start with the smallest pinkie head, just buy the pinkies and freeze them, PLEASE do this for at least 4 meals, spaced 7 days apart.
2) Then move to half the bodies you put back in the freezer, for the next 4 feedings, spaced 7 days apart.
3) Then when you move to the whole pink, you could try cutting it in half(while frozen) then thawing in a ziploc bag, so that Blaze has two small pieces to eat, giving him the whole pinkie but in a much easier to digest form(like carnivorouszoo suggested) I did this with my wee one when he regurged and I was moving him back up slowly. Do that for 4 feeds, spaced 7 days apart.
4) Then move to 4-6 meals of the smallest whole pinkies( to see how he does on those, before you moved up) spaced 7 days apart
5) Then move to 6 meals of 1.5 of the smallest pinkies spaced 7 days apart
6) Then move to 6 meals of 2 of the smallest pinkies spaced 7 days apart
7) Then move to the smallest peach fuzzy, this is a fuzzy that is just getting a thin coating of hair should only weigh about 5 grams, 6 meals of these spaced 7 days apart
8) Then move to regular fuzzies, about 7 grams, 6 meals spaced 7 days apart
9) Then move to small hoppers, about 9 grams, 6 meals spaced 7 days apart
10) Then move to regular hoppers, about 11 grams, 6 meals spaced 7 days apart
11) Then weanlings about 13 grams, 6 meals spaced 7 days apart
12) Then weanlings about 15-16 grams, 6 meals spaced 7 days apart
13) Then sub- adults about 17-18 grams, 6 meals spaced 7 days apart
14) Then adults about 20 grams, 6 meals spaced 7 days apart

This all is only good IF he does not regurge again OR IF his poops do not continue to look as they have. As well you need to get a digital scale that weighs in 1 gm or less increments so that you can know if he is gaining, loosing or maintaining his weight.

Plus as I mentioned before it lets you know if he gains enough weight to fit into the categories listed in the Munson Plan I gave you below. I say this because this snake needs very slow and steady. If it takes more than 6 meals to get to a new weight category that suggests the next size of mouse than do not move up until your snake weighs the minimum weight in that category. AND if your snake gets to a weight before the 6 meals are fed DO NOT move up until he has had the 6 meals at the smaller size and kept them down!


The Munson Plan (Sample Feeding Chart): Revised 06/08/08
For this you will need a digital weigh scale that will weigh in 1 grams increments or less.
-When they're on single pinks (2-3g), I feed every 5-6 days. (Snake = 4-15g)
-Double pinks (3g x 2) every 5-6 days. (Snake = 16-23g)
-Small fuzzies (5-7g) every 6-7 days. (Snake = 24-30g)
-Regular fuzzies (7-9g) every 6-7 days (Snake = 30-50g)
-Hoppers (9-12g) every 6-7 days (Snake = 51-90g)
-Weaned (14-20g) every 7 days (Snake = 91-170g)
-Adult (20-30g) every 7-x days (Snake = 170+) See below.

Note: Adult females are fed more frequently than adult males (especially following brumation). Adult females are fed every 7-12 days; adult males are fed every 11-14 days.
 
Don't over think it Seamus. Your snake has been sick, just don't rush it and it will be fine. Just needs a little time. You don't need to use capital letters or bold text.
 
Just please remember what I mentioned to you last time and mentioned again below, Blaze may not fit into the next mouse size in just 6 feedings, so you need to get the digital scale to know if he should move up in mouse size based on his weight and based on not regurging and not having abnormal poop/urates. As well I am not an expert or a vet and if this was my snake as I have said several times before, I would be getting any vet, reptile or not to at least do a fecal float for parasites etc, esp. with the history of regurges, abnormal poop/urates and lack of growth.


1) Start with the smallest pinkie head, just buy the pinkies and freeze them, PLEASE do this for at least 4 meals, spaced 7 days apart.
2) Then move to half the bodies you put back in the freezer, for the next 4 feedings, spaced 7 days apart.
3) Then when you move to the whole pink, you could try cutting it in half(while frozen) then thawing in a ziploc bag, so that Blaze has two small pieces to eat, giving him the whole pinkie but in a much easier to digest form(like carnivorouszoo suggested) I did this with my wee one when he regurged and I was moving him back up slowly. Do that for 4 feeds, spaced 7 days apart.
4) Then move to 4-6 meals of the smallest whole pinkies( to see how he does on those, before you moved up) spaced 7 days apart
5) Then move to 6 meals of 1.5 of the smallest pinkies spaced 7 days apart
6) Then move to 6 meals of 2 of the smallest pinkies spaced 7 days apart
7) Then move to the smallest peach fuzzy, this is a fuzzy that is just getting a thin coating of hair should only weigh about 5 grams, 6 meals of these spaced 7 days apart
8) Then move to regular fuzzies, about 7 grams, 6 meals spaced 7 days apart
9) Then move to small hoppers, about 9 grams, 6 meals spaced 7 days apart
10) Then move to regular hoppers, about 11 grams, 6 meals spaced 7 days apart
11) Then weanlings about 13 grams, 6 meals spaced 7 days apart
12) Then weanlings about 15-16 grams, 6 meals spaced 7 days apart
13) Then sub- adults about 17-18 grams, 6 meals spaced 7 days apart
14) Then adults about 20 grams, 6 meals spaced 7 days apart

This all is only good IF he does not regurge again OR IF his poops do not continue to look as they have. As well you need to get a digital scale that weighs in 1 gm or less increments so that you can know if he is gaining, loosing or maintaining his weight.

Plus as I mentioned before it lets you know if he gains enough weight to fit into the categories listed in the Munson Plan I gave you below. I say this because this snake needs very slow and steady. If it takes more than 6 meals to get to a new weight category that suggests the next size of mouse than do not move up until your snake weighs the minimum weight in that category. AND if your snake gets to a weight before the 6 meals are fed DO NOT move up until he has had the 6 meals at the smaller size and kept them down!


The Munson Plan (Sample Feeding Chart): Revised 06/08/08
For this you will need a digital weigh scale that will weigh in 1 grams increments or less.
-When they're on single pinks (2-3g), I feed every 5-6 days. (Snake = 4-15g)
-Double pinks (3g x 2) every 5-6 days. (Snake = 16-23g)
-Small fuzzies (5-7g) every 6-7 days. (Snake = 24-30g)
-Regular fuzzies (7-9g) every 6-7 days (Snake = 30-50g)
-Hoppers (9-12g) every 6-7 days (Snake = 51-90g)
-Weaned (14-20g) every 7 days (Snake = 91-170g)
-Adult (20-30g) every 7-x days (Snake = 170+) See below.

Note: Adult females are fed more frequently than adult males (especially following brumation). Adult females are fed every 7-12 days; adult males are fed every 11-14 days.
Thanks for your patients making me a new feeding plan :D !!
 
Don't over think it Seamus. Your snake has been sick, just don't rush it and it will be fine. Just needs a little time. You don't need to use capital letters or bold text.
thanks mate, whats the capital and bold text part? i didn't get it.
 
Seamus I think he was referring to me using capitals and bold, I used bold to stress to you that those were my opinions, that I was not an expert or a vet, that those were the things I would do if it were my snake and the caps are often used as yelling or stressing some thing, so again I used those to stress that I would only follow such a feeding plan with your snake if certain situations were met.

I simply wanted to make it clear so that if you did follow my "suggestions" and Blaze still did not make it, you would not blame me. As you know I like many others in this thread am trying to help you out based on the information you gave us and the information we know and have experienced.

So don't worry about the bold and capitals part of the message it was not directed at you.
 
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