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i need some advice help :(

DarkSmoke said:
its his first since about 16days ago i tough he regurged when it was the pink urates
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Please clarify.

Are you saying that this is the first pinky head that your snake has kept down in 16 days? If so, I would not go to ao full sized pinky just yet. I thought you had 2-3 minimum at this point. This thread is getting quite long, and drawn out. I hope your snake recovers fully from this ordeal.
 
Nroc, you don't have the whole story here.

Seamus, this may be hard for some to understand. I’ve been raising snakes since Dwight D Eisenhower was president. Most of the people on this forum will need to look up that name.

All of the nonsense that we have been talking about was on the assumption that the snake had a chronic regurgitation problem. I wasn’t so sure about that but some people love dire emergencies and tend to create tragedy out of the mundane. Now it looks like that may not be the case at all.

What I see is a very small snake that has eaten one pinkie head 16 days ago. What I see is a snake that is starving. I think it is time to feed the damn snake.
 
In fairness Wade, all the descriptions sounded like a regurge until we had the eyewitness at the point of "production". Even the photo looks more like a regurge than poop to me - and even as poop, it doesn't look or sound normal.

We can only ever offer advice based on the information we're given. Let's face it, any advice offered about any problem on here is pure guesswork unless we can see the issue in the flesh.

Sorry if us alarmists drowned out your earlier protestations that this wasn't a regurge!
 
With the snake's failure to thrive, problems with temperature regulation in the viv and reports by the owner of repeated regurges or undigested mouse in the fecal matter, personally I'd still suggest caution at this stage. Even the size of food item was difficult for the owner to check, he was getting live pinks/fuzzies of whatever size was available.
Now he has switched to f/t and sorted out the temperatures (and hopefully the issue of the snake escaping too) he can gradually increase the size of feed as the snake tolerates.
A slow and steady increase won't harm the snake as much as overfeeding and more regurges would, IMO
 
DarkSmoke said:
Ok here's some news that got me confused. Today i discovered that the last regurg wasn't a regurg , but poop. Today he did the same thing he pooped with the orange stuff(last time was more pinkish) which when it dried up it turned up to be urates.
Does this indicate an infection or something or it happens? As far as my knoledge this could be something with the pee, cause my ball last time urated and peed and the urates turned yellow with the pee. Dunno just a tought.



that's the image tough not very clear.
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wade said:
Seamus, the photo makes it pretty hard to really see what is happening. Do you really think the color was orange, or was it white with an orange tint.

What ever the case, I agree that after 14 days it is not a regurge. I would suggest feeding the snake and she how she does.
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wade said:
I don't know what to tell you Seamus. The color is odd, usually the urates are white. Usually the snake doesn't pass only urates, but then your snake has had very little to eat so it may not have anything else.

I think since you know it is not a regurgitation, I would continue with the light feeding as you have been. I personally would move up to a whole pinkie. I know others will jump in and disagree but I can handle the criticism.
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I don't think it was a regurge from the beginning. I think you are starving the snake.
 
Ok. So i have a half pinky, a pinky without a head, and a whole pinky. today is feeding day. what would everyone suggest i feed the snake then today. a whole pinky ? a whole pinky divided into half? or half a pinky.
i agree with wade that if its not a regurg then im starving my snake. but i want to let everyoe know that this thing started afrer 6succesfull feeding if everyone remembers. i found some pink stuff wich looks like mouse meat on feeding day after 7days and i asked if its possible it was a regurg (for me it wasn't since as far as i know it would rot) but most people told me it was and i should start the regurg protocol. then it happened again, and now on a pinky head still there is pink/orange stuff.
 
If you have stable temperatures now and have fixed the viv so Blaze can't escape, personally I'd go for the pinky head today, the body next week and a whole pink the next week after that.
 
I don't know Seamus, you are our on the scene reporter, I think you have to decide.

But give it something. Don't wait anymore.
 
Wow I have a feeling I contributed to the snake not being fed. I feel terrible! I agree give the head this week the headless body next week and the whole the week after. 16 days, wow, I would not let a snake under 300 grams go this long :( I'm really new too so it makes me feel worse that nothing has been given in 16 days. I thought the OP was offering food everyday at one point, that was how it sounded to me. . .
 
carnivorouszoo said:
Wow I have a feeling I contributed to the snake not being fed. I feel terrible! I agree give the head this week the headless body next week and the whole the week after. 16 days, wow, I would not let a snake under 300 grams go this long :( I'm really new too so it makes me feel worse that nothing has been given in 16 days. I thought the OP was offering food everyday at one point, that was how it sounded to me. . .
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relax dudeee, you tried to help :p
 
update: just fed my snake half a pink, that was my final decision. But I forgot to do slits on the back tough i don't think that mathers since the pinky was cut in half.

He urated again after he was fed also strangly it took him some time to get the half pinky down his trought. Of course this excluseds the possibily that the snake was pooping undigisted meals since he wasn't fed for 14 days and then was fed just a pinky head 7days ago.
 
I totally agree if you cut the pink in half it doesn't need slits. BTW, I wouldn't worry about having underfed your snake. Most predators are designed to tolerate missing meals, snakes more than mammals, and your snake will do fine! I know that lions, for example, don't get fed 7 days a week 52 weeks a year in captivity, proper captive lion care includes "fast days" when they don't get fed. And some people here have adult snakes that only need to eat every 14-21 days. It'll all work out all right in the end!
 
Wow I have a feeling I contributed to the snake not being fed. I feel terrible!
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As has been said, we're all doing our best to offer advice based on the info we're given. A healthy snake won't starve on the feeding this one has been given.

Remember that on page 22 of this thread, Kathy said she had nothing to add to what had been said. Can't say fairer than that.
 
Today i woke up and found some whiter urates! also i've been researching the net and found out that in reptiles this urates colour can occure from dehydration. Since as far as my knoledge snakes (and even mammals that live in the wild) get most of their water from their food and rarly drink , my snake does have a fresh water bowl always available but maybe he prefers getting his water from his prey and thats why he was urating like that loss of water in his body? dunno, just a guess.
 
Corn snakes drink from a bowl. They don't get significant water from their prey. If you have a bowl of water available to the snake at all time you do not have a dehydration problem. Lets not go on a wild goose chase down that path.
 
Signs of dehydration in snakes is generally observed by lateral folds, as if the skin is being gently pinched, as well as slightly sunken eyes. But Wade is right; if he has fresh water available at all times, he'll know when he wants to drink. Also, if your humidity is correct, then there should be no problem at all.
 
wade said:
Corn snakes drink from a bowl. They don't get significant water from their prey. If you have a bowl of water available to the snake at all time you do not have a dehydration problem. Lets not go on a wild goose chase down that path.
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ok i understand that it was a wrong guess. but its true that in the wild snakes get most of their water from their prey, lets take malta snake for example, there are no ponds or water sources avalable, plus when meat is frozen the water in it form crystals wich damages the meat and then when thawed a lot of water content is lost, so yeah a snake on frozen mouse wont be getting as lot of water as the ones on live, plus probably when they have a water bowl they will drink, but in the wild they won't have a water bowl , especially the ones that live on areas like my country with not natural water sources other then the sea or in deserts.
 
It is probably true that many snakes in arid areas have to conserve water better...

depending on local conditions.

Corns evolved primarily in the SE United States (not sure if I would call the tip of NJ the southeast, but MOSTLY in the southeast). Most of their range has mild winters, and ranges from extremely humid to just humid conditions. They evolved in places that usually see quite a lot of rain, and many areas have lakes, rivers, ponds, and swamps, not to mention morning dew and persistent puddles from one rain to the next, depending on the season. So their inborn inclinations for drinking might be different from those of snakes that evolved in arid areas.
 
just wanted to ask a question about blaze. he is doing the thing that he used to do, not using his heatmat and stay under the waterbowl. i hear some people reporting this behaviour now and then on this forum. When my snake used to this i had replaced his water bowl, but since the other one was too big for him i puted the old one back and now his doing the same old adictive behaviour and staying under the damn water bowl and very rarly using his heatmat. Should, since he's sick change his waterbowl to other one again since when i did this he started using the heatmat more?
 
I haven't been keeping up with this thread thoroughly, but did you ever get a thermostat for the heat mat? If it's too hot, that could be a reason he's not using it. If the temperatures are within range, he's just thermo-regulating and will move back to the warm side when he feels it necessary. If you are incredibly worried about it, why not try moving the water bowl closer to the warm side or on the heat mat? However, it is likely this will raise the humidity, so be sure to watch out for that.
 
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