Have to Agree to Disagree, sorta . .
Handling has very little to do with a snake regurgitation. There are lots of people that wait for the snake to poop, and some people handle the next day.
I've had 5 snakes over a period of 40 years and never had a regurgitation with any of them.
The primary reasons for regurgitations in snakes is, 1. Food item too big for the snake, 2. Improper temps for digestion, 3. Intestinal blockage or illness. Handling is way down on the list and only is a concern if the handling is too rough.
The reason this snake regurgitated is probably because of improper temps. It has been determines that the individual is "Not" using a thermostat.
Hi Karl!
While you make some valid points in your post, I don't believe you can say you know as a fact that is has been determined that the snake regurgitated because the individual is "Not" using a thermostat. You don't know that the food item wasn't too big (though you do point this out as a common reason for regurges) and you can't see inside that snake.
While I am happy for you and your sneaky ones that you have not had a regurge in over 40 years, I have also kept snakes for over 45 years and the only time I ever had a regurge was in a hatchling who was unfortunately being force-fed after almost 3 months of refusing food! I have never had any of my adults regurge (or other hatchlings who were eating, for that matter) and I have NEVER even used a thermostat!
Some of us like to use scientific methods in caring for our critters and while I mimic their natural environment to great lengths, I do not conform to the same methods. However, I also do not judge those who do so adversely. I actually applaud your efforts as it also sets a good example for newbies to the hobby.
I know you advocate use of the Munson Plan in weighing and feeding your snakes and their prey. I just eye the width and length of my snake and the rodent. You use digital thermostats and thermometers, I use a couple of simple Petco dial thermometers (and a hygrometer to measure humidity in my incubator) and in my large viv, which is made of a nylon, screen mesh (because I like the airflow for my snakes as they only have one functioning lung), I use a heating rock and a heat lamp (not the kind that lights up though as that would be counterproductive). While you have exact temps, mine vary from the 60's on one side to the mid-to-upper 90's on the other. I love and care for my snakes vociferously, as I am sure you do for Rufus, as I have followed your threads and can see the passion you have for your little sneaky one.
My justification for the above is that in the wild, our snakes do not have the option to eat the perfect size rodent nor do they have a warm or cool hide to retreat to after a meal or when they are blue and waiting to shed. I believe I read in a thread somewhere when the debate was whether or not to feed a snake on top of a substrate or not, you pointed out that in the wild a snake will invariably swallow a twig or some type of debris after dragging its prey through it (not verbatim, but I think I am not taking you out of context and please correct me if I do). You were just trying (I think, anyway) to point out that whoever was discussing feeding their snake on a clean surface could actually relax if they didn't because their snake would not die if they swallowed some debris attached to the rodent.
Which brings me to my point: I was just pointing out, if you read that entire thread above, that to handle a snake prior to the time it takes to digest a mouse or rodent COULD possibly lead to a regurge. Brian, in the video, says "12 hours" but does advocate leaving the snake alone until the next day. Some folks (sometimes newbies!) see that and think it's OK to handle a hatchling on the same night it ate and even if it still has a lump in it. Some handle a snake clumsily, especially flighty hatchlings who almost always have a noticeable lump in them a day after a meal, and sometimes they get dropped. While you know how to handle your sneaky ones and have done so for almost half a century speaks to the fact that you naturally know how to handle them. But humans handling snakes is not natural from the snake's perspective, especially a hatchling who never ate or just ate its first meal!
Therefore, I was just pointing out to some of the individuals who actually asked the question, "How long is sufficient?" that sometimes, even 72 hours MIGHT NOT be (it would depend if there is still much of a lump in the snake).
Thanx for the opportunity to debate. I hope this explained my motive. I didn't wanna start no s*%t.
Just sayin.