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Building your own rack system
- Thread starter CAV
- Start date
This thread has been very helpful in plans for a new rack for my creatures.
It would be great to see more pictures of other folks racks for ideas........
Also those of you that use boxes without lids have you had any problems with snakes getting out???? I looked at the larger sweater boxes in the store and thought they seamed a little weak on the sides. I have seen some snakes squeeze and push their way out of some pretty sucure (or what I thought was secure) containers.
It would be great to see more pictures of other folks racks for ideas........
Also those of you that use boxes without lids have you had any problems with snakes getting out???? I looked at the larger sweater boxes in the store and thought they seamed a little weak on the sides. I have seen some snakes squeeze and push their way out of some pretty sucure (or what I thought was secure) containers.
xKGLVRx
New member
Heat Tape
I'm wanting to build a rack. I only have 9 corns right now, but I live in an apartment, plus I want more. Where can I buy heat tape and a thermostat....fairly cheap? Also where would I run the heat tape behind the containers, attached to the back of the rack, or underneath the containers? is the heat tape already set up for the thermostat or would I need some wiring also? I'm so new, and so confused by most of these terms!!!! PLEASE HELP ME!!!! :shrugs:
I'm wanting to build a rack. I only have 9 corns right now, but I live in an apartment, plus I want more. Where can I buy heat tape and a thermostat....fairly cheap? Also where would I run the heat tape behind the containers, attached to the back of the rack, or underneath the containers? is the heat tape already set up for the thermostat or would I need some wiring also? I'm so new, and so confused by most of these terms!!!! PLEASE HELP ME!!!! :shrugs:
CAV
Dazed and Cornfused
xKGLVRx said:
I get all of my heating supplies from The Bean Farm but there are other suppliers on line.
xKGLVRx said:
Either method works fine. I prefer to run my tape vertically instead of under the shelf because the tape will last longer if the tubs aren't constantly being slid over the top of it.
xKGLVRx said:
Nope. You'll have to wire the tape with a plug in order to plug it into a thermostat control. All the directions are inside of this thread.
So I just built a rack system this weekend in anticipation of the future and for organization right now. This thread was very helpful, and a big thanks to everyone who has added info to it and especially to CAV who continues to help out those with questions. Everything turned out well with my system but I have a couple of questions.
1) It is set up so that lids wont have to be used. With this type of system is it necessary to use sealer, contact paper or something else on the under sides of the shelves in order to protect the wood? And if so what seems to work the best (sealer, contact paper, etc)?
2) I am, or rather will be, using sterilites for containers. The smaller sterilites (12qt) have a very small dip on each end along the top. This creates a very small gap that smaller snakes might be able to get through. Does anyone use these sterilites and have any suggestions for ways to eliminate this gap?
Thanks
1) It is set up so that lids wont have to be used. With this type of system is it necessary to use sealer, contact paper or something else on the under sides of the shelves in order to protect the wood? And if so what seems to work the best (sealer, contact paper, etc)?
2) I am, or rather will be, using sterilites for containers. The smaller sterilites (12qt) have a very small dip on each end along the top. This creates a very small gap that smaller snakes might be able to get through. Does anyone use these sterilites and have any suggestions for ways to eliminate this gap?
Thanks
CAV
Dazed and Cornfused
zwyatt said:
My .02 is that lids are more secure, especially if you are going to house something other than full grown adults. I sealed the entire rack with Polyurethane and have never had a problem.
zwyatt said:
As long as the lid is flush, the upper shelf will provide enough pressure so that escape is impossible. I've never had an escape in the rack that I used tubs with lids.
Thanks
Ok, thanks. The only problem is that I measured and already screwed in the shelves at the height so that lids wouldn't be needed. And now I don't think it is at all possible to get a container with a lid on it to slide into place.
So I guess either I am going to have to try to find a way to remedy the slight gap or move all my shelves, which I would really like to avoid. :shrugs:
Thanks for the ideas
Ok, thanks. The only problem is that I measured and already screwed in the shelves at the height so that lids wouldn't be needed. And now I don't think it is at all possible to get a container with a lid on it to slide into place.
So I guess either I am going to have to try to find a way to remedy the slight gap or move all my shelves, which I would really like to avoid. :shrugs:
Thanks for the ideas
cornsnakekid92
trouser snake
i tihnk we have a artest..
Roy Munson
New member
zwyatt said:Yeah, and a spelling be champ
(Ahem- that's Spelling Bee.)
DAND
New member
The following pictures are from the last rack I made which holds 72 (9 levels of 8 tubs) 16 quart tubs. It's only a little over 16 1/4 inches wide (2 well made cuts from a 49 inch X 97 inch piece gives me 3 shelves), 6 feet high and 8 feet long. I have an electric planer, which planes a 3 1/4 inch groove. I use 3 inch flexwatt, which fits into the groove and doesn't allow the tubs to damage the flexwatt when pulling out or replacing the tubs.
When I build mine I make spacers that are just slightly taller than the tubs so the tubs will glide in and out without any problems. The also keep the rack from sagging. I'll start out with the bottom piece, place spacers and tubs in place and put the next level on top of that, and so on. When that is done I will pre-drill the holes for the sides. I use bar clamps to pull the shelves square with the sides and attach them. Once the back is attached it pulls everything square.
When I build mine I make spacers that are just slightly taller than the tubs so the tubs will glide in and out without any problems. The also keep the rack from sagging. I'll start out with the bottom piece, place spacers and tubs in place and put the next level on top of that, and so on. When that is done I will pre-drill the holes for the sides. I use bar clamps to pull the shelves square with the sides and attach them. Once the back is attached it pulls everything square.
Attachments
Okay, so I just finished wiring my four strips of flexwatt vertically on my rack. I did them serially and to my great satisfaction the whole thing heated up on the first try (And I only burned myself with the soldering iron once ).
My problem is that I planned on running some aluminum tape along the back edges to distribute the heat, but I forgot and fastened the flexwatt and peg board and put the rack back agaisnt the wall. So will the tape still serve its purpose if I reach back and run a strip horizontally along the back of each shelf? :shrugs:
Thanks
). My problem is that I planned on running some aluminum tape along the back edges to distribute the heat, but I forgot and fastened the flexwatt and peg board and put the rack back agaisnt the wall. So will the tape still serve its purpose if I reach back and run a strip horizontally along the back of each shelf? :shrugs:
Thanks
cornsnakekid92
trouser snake
( i know this thread hasn't been up in a while but it is a good enough thread to be and this seems like the right place to ask.)
Do you really need the foil tape if the temp does not get below 55???
Do you really need the foil tape if the temp does not get below 55???