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Well, it's not quite done yet....

M

Mary-Beth

New member
...but here is my new "snake condo" that my dad and I built this weekend. I still have a few things left to do to it (install heat tape and paint) but all the big stuff is done.

I really must do something about all that empty space though! :grin01:
 
That is awsome. Truely thats one of the nicest display "racks" i have seen. Usually they are way more utilitarian but this would offer a nice display also. Go Dad!
Usually its my mom that makes things like that. But thats what you get when your mom's been a carpenter for 30 years :D
 
Carpentry runs in me mums side of the family as well! lol
I've had to modify it a little because the visionariums were so heavy that they were bending the shelves. Now they sit on the bottom, stacked on top of one another, and there are still five sterilite sized shelves above that.

Thanks for the compliments! :cheers:
 
Very nice.

My only warning is without support, that thin plywood is going to bend and warp. I used that exact plywood for my 32 quart racks, and now 8 months later, they're bending pretty bad even with supports. I'm going to tear the 12 hole rack apart and make a display cage.
 
Does the wood thickness matter then, because they only had one size thicker and I didn't feel like spending $23 a sheet lol?
What size does everyone use for their home made racks?
Do you think flipping the shelves over once a month would help?
 
Yes, it will matter. If you use this as a rack is usually made (no lids, just simply sliding tubs in and out), the warp will create a gap for escapes. If you're useing lids, it won't be such an issue. Your best bet is to attempt to reinforce the center. I posted a pic to show you what I mean (excuse the mess - having some major construction in the reptile room - building a 4x6 monitor enclosure in the one corner). But like I said, it is still warping. I'm useing melamine from now on with the center reinforcement.
 

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Mary-Beth is KoRny said:
Does the wood thickness matter then, because they only had one size thicker and I didn't feel like spending $23 a sheet lol?
What size does everyone use for their home made racks?
Do you think flipping the shelves over once a month would help?
Click to expand...
No, thickness does not matter. Any thickness of plywood, partical board, MDF or even solid hardwood will warp and bow over time if not properly supported.

I used 1/2" melamine on the last two racks I built. I build my racks cabinet style (like a large bookcase). First of all the bottom has to be fully supported and braced, then each shelf supported up from there (in one or two spots).

Q
 
So melamine is the way to go huh? Man, I thought I could save some money and build it the cheap route... oh well.. center supports and melamine it is.. :(

Laine
 
The down fall about melamine is...it's very heavy, even 1/2" and it's also a little on the pricey side. However, I'm not moving the racks around. I do like the clean white finished look and it's super easy to wipe down. The paper laminate also helps repel moisture and limits the partical board expanding if it happens to get wet.

Q
 
Melamine will also "bend" if the shelves are long and there's no center support.

A few months back I built a 52" wide rack (to use 2 32qt. Sterilites side by side). I used 3/4" Melamine for shelves and ended up having to add center supports.

If you're going with roughly 2' wide sections, then it should work.
 
Gronk said:
Melamine will also "bend" if the shelves are long and there's no center support.
Click to expand...
Correct...melamine is a partical board product.

Quigs said:
Any thickness of plywood, partical board, MDF or even solid hardwood will warp and bow over time if not properly supported.
Click to expand...
 
Mary Beth...I'm curious...what kind of vivs are the two larger ones?
They look like something I was looking at earlier tonight...
By the way...although you've got cause for concern about warpage, it's a nice looking set up. I'd have bitten the bullet and gone to 3/4" though...and I'd bet even that would warp because of the length (side to side) of the shelves. Sorry about the news... :rolleyes:
 
Those are visionariums, and they're pieces of crap! They look nice but hatchlings can pretty much just leave them at will. If you have them stacked you can't leave the fluorescent lights on for more then a few minutes or all but the bottom one will overheat. And if you have them stacked the plastic tops and bottoms eventually sag, causing the doors to be very hard to open and the locks rub on the glass. I'm thinking of throwing them out - I won't even consider selling them.

Good Luck on your viv hunt, and if you find a good one let me know! lol
:cheers:
 
First off, great rack set-up! I personally use 1/2" MDF for any shelving/stand/rack-setups that I build. Although, MDF is a little more expensive than plywood, and plywood can work just fine. On your set-up, I would suggest at least one more support on each shelf, in order to prevent the shelves from bowing. If you cut strips of wood the width of the shelves (like the ones supporting the shelves on the sides, then tack these to the back-board directly under each shelf. A strip can also be placed in the front too, but you may not have room for this (because the tanks/containers may not be able to pull out afterwards. But one on each shelf along the back will definitely help and correct the bowing problem. Good luck.
 
I built my first rack earlier this summer and used pre-cut shelves from Home Depot. They were unfinished, so was only a little more expensive than getting a sheet of plywood and cutting it myself. They're 36" long by 12" deep (2 deep per shelf, allowing for 2 27qt Sterilites per row) and are very sturdy without needing any center supports. I got around the extra weight of the thicker shelves by adding wheels for mobility.

Your design is looking pretty nice so far, btw. But I would agree the shelves look a little thin. Good luck getting it all workerd out :cheers:
 
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