I just purchased yesterday a miami corn snake for my 8 year old son. We are both learning a lot about snakes but have a few questions and need some opinions. The snake is a baby and we have him in a wood enclosure. We also have two hidding spots for him and a water bowl. For substrate we used aspen shavings. We purchased a uv heat bulb and a thermometer and a slide dimmer to help regulate the heat. The shop provided a care sheet which told us to keep the temperature to 85F. I"m doing that. I'm concerned about a few things with the AV light. First, different forums say different things, but the book we purchased stated that corn snakes are nocturnal. I'm wondering if having a UV light may not be a good idea for the snake as it may hate all that light? Also can the snake burn it self on the UV light or does it know to stay away from the heat source? This has gotten me to think perhaps a heat pad is better but a few sites state they can short out and burn or harm the snake? Also if I have a wood cage how would the heat pad work and how would you regulate the heat? Sorry for all the questions people. My last question is would a ceramic heater be better then the UV light? And if I use the ceramic light do I not need to worry about the snake being hurt by touching it? Also would the cermamic light perhaps be better for it as its a nocturnal creature? Thanks a bunch for your time. :santa:
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Advice on New Snake
- Thread starter Akepa
- Start date
cornman1979
New member
Don't use a heat rock or similar as they can and will burn your snake if it lays right next to it. A uv light is ok for daytime use, but I prefer a standard 25 watt bulb on from 9am to 11pm, and i also use heatmats with out a problem. My oldet heat mat is 11ish year's old and i have never had one short and burn a snake. Also a anylight can burn a snake if you don't use a cage to enclose the bulb in a proper bulb cage like this one found here, Live food
As to regulating the heat of a heatmat you can buy a matstat, which will maintain the heat at a steady temp that you program it to. I don't use 1 though as i instead add or remove substrate to get the ideal temp's (between 82-86 ideally for the warm end during the day).
Good luck and congratulations on getting a corn snake and welcome to the forum.
As to regulating the heat of a heatmat you can buy a matstat, which will maintain the heat at a steady temp that you program it to. I don't use 1 though as i instead add or remove substrate to get the ideal temp's (between 82-86 ideally for the warm end during the day).
Good luck and congratulations on getting a corn snake and welcome to the forum.
DAND
New member
A red light could be used at night so as to not have the snake in light all the time.
Yes it can burn itself if it touches the bulb. It is best to have the light on the screen lid to avoid burning. Same would go for the ceramic heater too. If there isn't a screen lid you could make a cage for the bulb but make sure the snake can't get in the cage.
A UTH could be used and controlled with a thermostat, though I don't know if I would try this with a wooden cage. Your best bet may be getting a ten gallon aquarium with a good locking screen lid and a dome for the light.
Hope this helps.
Yes it can burn itself if it touches the bulb. It is best to have the light on the screen lid to avoid burning. Same would go for the ceramic heater too. If there isn't a screen lid you could make a cage for the bulb but make sure the snake can't get in the cage.
A UTH could be used and controlled with a thermostat, though I don't know if I would try this with a wooden cage. Your best bet may be getting a ten gallon aquarium with a good locking screen lid and a dome for the light.
Hope this helps.
WhiteLips
New member
Congratulations on your new snake! 
How exciting!
First I would suggest you get a copy of Kathy Love's Book "The Cornsnake Manual"- I think you can get @ the bookstore or on her web site.
Wooden enclosures (unless well sealed) can present problems with cleaning/ sanitation. Aquariums are popular (and inexpensive) they too have some issues especially with heating & humidity, and many snakes find a way to escape (remember they were designed for fish! ) I use Barrs cages for my corns they are (relatively) inexpensive and are designed for reptiles- easy to clean, heat and maintain humidity, easy acess to the snake because the the opening is in the front, so as you aquire more snakes you can stack the cages! It's also very difficult for the snake to escape (unless you leave the door open ) Check the web there are some really nice cages built for snakes- or if you are handy (I'm not) there are many plans out there for really nice cages.
Depending on where you live you may be able to maintain correct temps with only the under the tank heat mat (UTH) although these don't work as well through the wood there are types that can be used inside. The heat mats are needed because snakes need the heat for proper digestion, heat lamps are OK but you do need to turn them off at night- red (or blue) can be left on all the time- just be aware that the heat lamps can dry out the enclosure affecting your humidity levels which in turn can affect sheds etc.
Aspen is a great choice for substrate- I use it too as well as news paper & paper towels (depends on the snake)- I elect to feed the snakes I house in aspen in another container- to avoid ingestion/ possible impaction (there are a few threads with regard to that-lots of opinions!)
Well I have rambled on enough! I hope it helps
:cheers:
How exciting!First I would suggest you get a copy of Kathy Love's Book "The Cornsnake Manual"- I think you can get @ the bookstore or on her web site.
Wooden enclosures (unless well sealed) can present problems with cleaning/ sanitation. Aquariums are popular (and inexpensive) they too have some issues especially with heating & humidity, and many snakes find a way to escape
(remember they were designed for fish! ) I use Barrs cages for my corns they are (relatively) inexpensive and are designed for reptiles- easy to clean, heat and maintain humidity, easy acess to the snake because the the opening is in the front, so as you aquire more snakes you can stack the cages! It's also very difficult for the snake to escape (unless you leave the door open ) Check the web there are some really nice cages built for snakes- or if you are handy (I'm not) there are many plans out there for really nice cages.Depending on where you live you may be able to maintain correct temps with only the under the tank heat mat (UTH) although these don't work as well through the wood there are types that can be used inside. The heat mats are needed because snakes need the heat for proper digestion, heat lamps are OK but you do need to turn them off at night- red (or blue) can be left on all the time- just be aware that the heat lamps can dry out the enclosure affecting your humidity levels which in turn can affect sheds etc.
Aspen is a great choice for substrate- I use it too as well as news paper & paper towels (depends on the snake)- I elect to feed the snakes I house in aspen in another container- to avoid ingestion/ possible impaction (there are a few threads with regard to that-lots of opinions!)
Well I have rambled on enough! I hope it helps
:cheers:
rippit
New member
As others have said, Kathy Love's Corn Snake Manual is the bible when it comes to keeping corn snakes. But you really seem to have a good understanding of the basics for a good habitat. It's always good to see someone so well informed before they purchase a snake. Good luck - miamis are my second favorite morph.
Kathy's site is www.cornutopia.com
You should be able to order the book directly from her site.
It will explain all you need to know for basic husbandry.
What kind of wood is the enclosure made out of, just out of curiosity?
Is it sealed or painted?
You should be able to order the book directly from her site.
It will explain all you need to know for basic husbandry.
What kind of wood is the enclosure made out of, just out of curiosity?
Is it sealed or painted?
Thank you Cornman, Dand, Whitelips, rippit and Alias47. Snakes are new to me and my son. I'm happy we found this forum with such a great community. I just ordered Kathy Loves book and can't wait to recieve it. I'm going to buy tomorrow an encloure for the light and purchase a red bulb. I"ll check into the heat mats but it appears not many are made for inside the cage. Alias47 asked about the cage. Its a wood tank made of pine wood and has a melamine floor.(Will the heat mat option work through this material?) It has a wood top, three sides of wood, and a glass front. There is 1 hinged front opening glass door and 2 small screen side vents. There is also 1 heat lamp fixture on the inside of the tank .
Dimensions (L x W x H) in inches is 32 x 15 x 15. It's not stained inside the tank but light stained brown on the outside. I"ll borrow a digital camera and try to post a pic.
Another question group. One of the books I have suggests making a shed box inside the cage. It describes this as a tupperware container with a cut opening, then placing a damp paper towel inside. I understand that the corn snake may shed once a month? Have you found the need for this kind of shed box or something better?
Dimensions (L x W x H) in inches is 32 x 15 x 15. It's not stained inside the tank but light stained brown on the outside. I"ll borrow a digital camera and try to post a pic.
Another question group. One of the books I have suggests making a shed box inside the cage. It describes this as a tupperware container with a cut opening, then placing a damp paper towel inside. I understand that the corn snake may shed once a month? Have you found the need for this kind of shed box or something better?
cornman1979
New member
A humidity (shed) box is a good idea, oryou could just spray using a fine nozzle bottle like i do when the snake goes blue (shed mode when the eye's glaze over).
As to the viv mine is a wooden one with sliding glass doors and i use a heat mat and a 25watt light bulb for visual effect.
My heatmat is under the lighted area.
As to the viv mine is a wooden one with sliding glass doors and i use a heat mat and a 25watt light bulb for visual effect.
My heatmat is under the lighted area.
I would be reluctant to have unsealed pine in direct contact with your snake...
Pine and especially cedar have resins in them that can be potentially deadly to reptiles.
You DEFINITELY do not want to use these as bedding...or use any products that have pine oils in them to clean the enclosure...
I would think about staining and sealing the interior walls...
I have never made a wood enclosure...but I do know some people who have and can recommend products to use that will not harm your snake (after they cure, of course!).
What does everyone else think?
On the second question...I never use a humid hide unless my snakes have a stuck shed...which is rare...sometimes the tip of the tail in the smaller ones. I usually mist with a spray bottle...they make a "Reptile Sprayer", I do not know your location, but they are readily available at most pet stores that carry reptile supplies...they are only 2 and a half bucks or something, but provide a fine mist...
Once the snake goes blue (eyes cloud up, can be hard to tell depending on the morph, but shouldn't have a problem with a Miami) I spray them down once a day...never have a problem...
Pine and especially cedar have resins in them that can be potentially deadly to reptiles.
You DEFINITELY do not want to use these as bedding...or use any products that have pine oils in them to clean the enclosure...
I would think about staining and sealing the interior walls...
I have never made a wood enclosure...but I do know some people who have and can recommend products to use that will not harm your snake (after they cure, of course!).
What does everyone else think?
On the second question...I never use a humid hide unless my snakes have a stuck shed...which is rare...sometimes the tip of the tail in the smaller ones. I usually mist with a spray bottle...they make a "Reptile Sprayer", I do not know your location, but they are readily available at most pet stores that carry reptile supplies...they are only 2 and a half bucks or something, but provide a fine mist...
Once the snake goes blue (eyes cloud up, can be hard to tell depending on the morph, but shouldn't have a problem with a Miami) I spray them down once a day...never have a problem...
cornman1979
New member
I agree about pine and ceder, they shouldn't be used. My viv are mdf and safe for snakes and other reptiles.
I live in San Jose, California, USA. I purchased the snake and vivarium in Berkley California from East Bay Vivarium. There web site is http://www.eastbayvivarium.com/ I'm upset to find that pine should not be used in the enclousure. They have all there snakes housed in them at the shop. I went to this shop based on a breeder recommendation. I'll call today and post what I find out. Perhaps they lined or stained a clear stain inside the vivarium that I can't see to protect the snake from toxics? Thanks for posting the pic of your vivarium corn and snake. Beautiful! Thanks for the information on misting vs a shed house for the snake and for being patient with all the questions I keep having. Today I'm supposed to feed the snake for the first time. The shop provided 10 small frozen hairless mice. They are about the size of dime. The told me to take one and thaw it out in a hot glass of water for about 15 minutes then use tongs to move it around the snake and he should eat it. My question is a few sites have said its not good to feed the snake inside the cage. If you do it will teach the snake to bite you each time you open the cage. Is this true? If so what do you suggest for the feeding procedure.
I feed my little guys in their tanks...most seem so shy, they won't eat with me present...
I just cut a paper plate into 8 pieces and put the mouse on it so the substrate doesn't stick...
My larger ones I feed out of the tank...(sometimes in the middle of the living room)...or in a separate tub.
Don't be surprised if the little one won't take the meal from the tongs...
I only have one hatchling that will...and she was the shyest until she escaped for 3 weeks...
She'll eat off the tongs every time...
I just cut a paper plate into 8 pieces and put the mouse on it so the substrate doesn't stick...
My larger ones I feed out of the tank...(sometimes in the middle of the living room)...or in a separate tub.
Don't be surprised if the little one won't take the meal from the tongs...
I only have one hatchling that will...and she was the shyest until she escaped for 3 weeks...
She'll eat off the tongs every time...
Had a delay here in posting did not understand there was a second page to the thread and could not find my last post. LOL First I want to talk about the feeding. It was so exciting! Never have fed a snake before nor seen one eat. Was very exciting for the whole family although the wife did not seem to care for it. I hope the snake grows on her over time? I took the snake out of the cage and let my son handle him for about 10 minutes or so then we placed the snake back in the cage and offered it the baby mouse in tongs. As soon as it got within about 2 inches from the snake it went into swift action and grabbed the mouse. I was very happy to see it take the mouse as we only purchased the snake on the 18th. So the first feeding was excellent and I hope that since the snake ate that means it is starting to feel confortable in its new home and its healthy. It did not spit the food up the day after so I assume the digestion is done. Thank you all. I plan to feed the snake once a week one little hairless baby mouse. (are they called pinkies?) I got a red bulb installed 25 watts and its keeping the heat at about 85 except at night it drops to around 78 to 80. I also installed a protective mesh around the bulb to protect the snake from touching the bulb. Although the metal does heat up a bit but not near as much as the bulb. I called the shop I purchased the snake from and discussed the cage. They confirmed the cage is made of pine and stained outside. They also told me that the floor is made of melamine. The substrated I'm using is Aspen. They claim the pine is cured and since its only on the top and two small sides it will not present a problem for the snake as it won't be in contact with those parts. I told them about this forum and to check it out. They said they are aware that there is a concern about toxics such as pine, but claim its mostly in the bark of the tree. So I got nothing to worry about. They told me that I can take the cage back if I not happy. I paid $135.00 US for it it. The diminsions and discription is in an earlier post above. What do you guys think?
Welcome Akepa, I notice that you are from San Jose, I am currently in San Martin, and moving to Santa Clara at the first of the year.
I thing it is great that you are interested about doing the right thing for you snake and it sounds like you have recieved a lot of good information. I think I speak for everyone in saying that we would love to see a photo of your snake. The small hairless mice are called Pinkies. They are essentially new born mice. Good luck and keep us informed.
LadyLaw :twoguns:
I thing it is great that you are interested about doing the right thing for you snake and it sounds like you have recieved a lot of good information. I think I speak for everyone in saying that we would love to see a photo of your snake. The small hairless mice are called Pinkies. They are essentially new born mice. Good luck and keep us informed.
LadyLaw :twoguns:
MegF.
That's for sale???
My only question is, do you have a cool side that's around the low 70's? They need a warm and cool side. Also after feeding you should leave your new snake alone for about 2-3 days to assure it's digested completely. As stated by others, make sure if you feed in the viv, that the snake can't ingest substrate. I have one hatchling that I feed in the viv and she's on paper towel until she becomes brave enough to feed in a seperate box.
I'll take a digital pic of my miami corn snake and post. I'll see if I can convince him not to be so camera shy. LadyLaw you will love it in Santa Clara. It a nice play to live. Lived there for 3 years. Just be prepared that cost of living up here is high. But for all the weather and resturants ect I think its worth it. Meg I installed a second thermometer in the tank today. When you buy the thermometer it states post in the center of the tank. Then I quickly learned I need one on top, bottom and both sides of the tank. The thermometer is too sticky so it will have to stay in the middle along with the others now. LOL Near his water dish opposite of the heat lamp it around 75. He does hang out there in the day in his little hiding rock. Next time I feed him in the vib I'll place a paper towel down. Thats a good idea to be safe he won't digest the aspen.
Here's a tip for taking a picture...
Put the snake underneath a hide (with no hole...like a metal bowl...or some other opaque object) for a minute (not literally...just until it calms down)...get your camera ready...lift the bowl off. USUALLY the snake will sit still for a short while before it decides to start cruising around again.
Put the snake underneath a hide (with no hole...like a metal bowl...or some other opaque object) for a minute (not literally...just until it calms down)...get your camera ready...lift the bowl off. USUALLY the snake will sit still for a short while before it decides to start cruising around again.