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Animal Plastics Question

CJBianco

CJBianco

Zen Philosopher
Does anyone know if the Animal Plastics rack systems allow enough space for the box top?

(I would like to upgrade to a plastic rack system, but I would still like to use the tops on my 32qt Sterilite boxes. Thanks in advance.)


Chris Bianco
(864) 706-7399
[email protected]
 
Yes. I have two AP racks, and I use the lids to my 15qt. (1754) and 32qt. (1756) Sterilite tubs.
 

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Roy Boy!

I should've known to ask you! After all, you hold the answer to every cornsnake-related question I have ever asked on this forum!

(How do you do it? Is there a Magic 8-Ball involved?)

I'm ordering the new rack system this week!

(I love tax refunds.)

Thanks, Roy!


Chris Bianco
(864) 706-7399
[email protected]
 
CJBianco said:
Roy Boy!

I should've known to ask you! After all, you hold the answer to every cornsnake-related question I have ever asked on this forum!
Click to expand...
Awwww, shucks. :grin01:
(How do you do it? Is there a Magic 8-Ball involved?)
Click to expand...
No, I'm 1/16th Abnaki, and corns are my animal spirit guides.
I'm ordering the new rack system this week!
Click to expand...
Don't forget the Helix DB1000 (or equivalent, if there is one)!
(I love tax refunds.)
Click to expand...
If only you didn't have to do your taxes to get them. :rolleyes:
Thanks, Roy!
Click to expand...
You're always welcome. :)
 
By the way...how tight is the fit? (Does the water bowl spill upon removal?)

Thanks again.

(My garter snakes appreciate it.)


Chris
 
CJBianco said:
By the way...how tight is the fit? (Does the water bowl spill upon removal?)

Thanks again.

(My garter snakes appreciate it.)


Chris
Click to expand...

In my 1756-10 rack, the fit is nice. In my 1754-20 (which can accommodate 10 1756s too), the fit seems a little tighter. Without careful withdrawal and replacement, water bowl sloshage (I think I made up that word) can be a concern in the 1754-20. But it's hardly an issue. I think your garter-phase corns will be very happy in an AP rack. :grin01:
 
when there's no more room in hell..

Eik, this is a really old thread. Well now it's undead. =D
Anyway, on topic - I'm going to ask for an animal plastics rack and Helix thermometer for Christmas. Dean and Chris, could you guys answer a few questions I have?
I'm not sure weather to go with back or belly heat. I use belly heat now and that's what I thought I should go with, but when I went to the heating option page on the Animal Plastics website back heat was recommended for animals that are "not tropical or do not need as much heat". Does this mean that the belly heat option is more geared towards boas? Does this difference even matter at all if you have a proportional thermostat?
My next question was going to be about the thermostat, but it looks from your picture, Dean, that the thermostat can attach pretty well. Was that a DIY job, or were there instructions to follow? I'm kind of lost in how the thermometer attaches to the heat source.. which is why I want to go with a rack that already has the heat taken care of. I actually have a functional rack right now, but I'm still using heating pads :eek:
Hatchling tubs are alright to heat, 4 tubs to one heating pad works well, with two tubs stacked on top of eachother and the heating pad in between. My yearlings need one heating pad per two tubs though. :nope:
I'm looking forward to upgrading, just wanted to see what you guys preferred as far as heating went.
 
One more thing,
I'm looking into the 1754 series, where the 32qts sit the long way. I'm guessing back heat would provide a better gradient?
 
Belly heat is better for corns. They're crepuscular or nocturnal (there was a thread on that). Either way, they'd use sun warmed objects to get thier heat, and not from the sun itself. Heat lamps can also dry out the air and make it harder to maintain proper temps.
 
GiantBlueberry said:
Eik, this is a really old thread. Well now it's undead. =D
Anyway, on topic - I'm going to ask for an animal plastics rack and Helix thermometer for Christmas. Dean and Chris, could you guys answer a few questions I have?
I'm not sure weather to go with back or belly heat. I use belly heat now and that's what I thought I should go with, but when I went to the heating option page on the Animal Plastics website back heat was recommended for animals that are "not tropical or do not need as much heat". Does this mean that the belly heat option is more geared towards boas? Does this difference even matter at all if you have a proportional thermostat?
Click to expand...
Hi Jessica. I have three of the "wide type" 1754s and one 1756, all with 10 shelves. I went with belly heat for all the racks, but I doubt that it makes a big difference. You might get a slightly better gradient in the 32qt. tubs with back heat, but I've never had a problem with my current setups.

My next question was going to be about the thermostat, but it looks from your picture, Dean, that the thermostat can attach pretty well. Was that a DIY job, or were there instructions to follow? I'm kind of lost in how the thermometer attaches to the heat source.. which is why I want to go with a rack that already has the heat taken care of. I actually have a functional rack right now, but I'm still using heating pads :eek:
Hatchling tubs are alright to heat, 4 tubs to one heating pad works well, with two tubs stacked on top of eachother and the heating pad in between. My yearlings need one heating pad per two tubs though. :nope:
I'm looking forward to upgrading, just wanted to see what you guys preferred as far as heating went.
Click to expand...
I'd change my original thermostat recommendation from Helix to Spyder Robotics Herpstat thermostats. I had a couple of reliablility and temp maintenance issues when I tried controlling two racks with my Helix. The Herpstats handle two racks with zero issues. Both Helix and Herpstat can hang from a screw that you drill into the rack, but I didn't like that option. I have my thermostats secured to the racks with heavy-duty, double-sided mounting tape (the spongy 3M/Scotch kind). There is a cord from the t-stat to the probe, and another from the t-stat to the input outlets. The heat source cords plug into the input outlets. I leave these on the floor.

If you have any other questions, or need clarification, don't hesitate to ask. :)
 
I am glad to see this post, so Jessica, thanks for digging it up. I am considering a rack at some point, to house more snakes, and was just today looking at the animal plastics rack.

How big of a pain is it that these racks require the lids to be on? One of the big selling points made by Boaphile is that the racks hold the bins lid off, so it's an easy task to change water bowls. I am really up in the air right now between Boaphile and AP. AP seems a bit cheaper, but... :shrugs:
 
Hypancistrus said:
How big of a pain is it that these racks require the lids to be on? One of the big selling points made by Boaphile is that the racks hold the bins lid off, so it's an easy task to change water bowls. I am really up in the air right now between Boaphile and AP. AP seems a bit cheaper, but... :shrugs:
Click to expand...
Lids are not required with AP racks (using the appropriate tubs, of course). Having said that, without lids, there is a tiny, intentional ventilation gap. I wouldn't feel confident going lidless with a snake that weighed less than about 75g.

However, I like using the lids. They're an extra level of security. If you have cats, or dogs, or kids, the lid is one more layer of protection against escape if any of these entities fish a tub out of the rack (completely or partially).
 
I have the AP 375(12) rack, the Iris instead of Sterilite and I keep all of ours except hatchlings in these. Our first one we ordered seemed to be a tighter fit than the second two that we ordered so I keep all our smaller snakes in these. Right now the smallest in the rack is our '05 that weighs around 25g (she's a REALLY slow grower). In our second or third I wouldn't want to put snakes smaller than 50-75g in it just because they do have more room around the lip. So far I haven't had any issues with snakes getting out of the racks.

~Katie
 
Okay, sounds good. I like the looks and price of the AP Racks. Now the only question would be... 7, 9 or 10? Do I go with practical or inevitable? Hmm.... :grin01:
 
Hypancistrus said:
Okay, sounds good. I like the looks and price of the AP Racks. Now the only question would be... 7, 9 or 10? Do I go with practical or inevitable? Hmm.... :grin01:
Click to expand...
Why stop at 10? The Iris racks go up to 12 which are the ones I have :grin01:

~Katie
 
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