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Ball Python Feeding Issues -- Serious!!

R

RaLaser

New member
Hey all! I posted about my Sammy (ball python) not eating several months ago and most everyone replied not to worry, that he was likely in hibernation.

Sammy has not eaten a single thing since October 2011. He has shed only once since then, as well. I took him to a vet the end of November, and she said not to worry about it... and then I took him to another vet in the beginning of March or so and she said that it would be okay unless he lost 10% of his body weight.

He started out weighing 11.1 ounces. I just weighed him and he is now 8.7 ounces. He just started this weight loss within the last month, but I still cannot get him to eat. He is drinking normally.

I have brained the mice, tried different colors, different sizes, cut the mice into tiny pieces (gross), kept the rodents in with soiled gerbil bedding, left him in a smaller tank with the mouse.... nothing. I have no idea what there is left to do.

The vet couldn't do a check for parasites in March because he has not used the bathroom since October. Should he go back to the vet for force feeding? Should I not worry??? It's been nearly 9 months!!!

ANY SUGGESTIONS ARE MUCH APPRECIATED!!!!
 
Couple of questions:

What are you keeping him in?
What are your temps?
What kind of substrate?

I don't know if I read your old thread, but I will do what I can to help. I have numerous BPs and have been keeping them for ages.

EDIT: Sorry, I meant him. XD
 
Have you tried raising his temps in his tank, then when feeding put him in a small container with his food & put in a dark room (closet).
If he is still moving around like he is searching for something this might work. Good that you are weighing him. If he still refuses you might have to assist feed him a couple times to help with his strenght. BTW this advice just worked for me with a very fussy baby ball python that would not eat for me for almost 6 months. I assist fed her every week after she would refuse her meal first. Finally 3 weeks ago she took it on her own F/T. She is now a strong eater with the dark days behind us. So hang in there & don't give up. You just have to be more stubborn for her to live than she is to give up. Good luck & hope you have the same Happy ending I did with my little girl.
 
I got Lola to eat by covering all sides of her tank and have the front with black butcher paper. Leaving her alone for about a week with the new darkness. Then got a prekilled rat and gerbil bedding and it took her about an hour to eat it. I left her in absolute darkness and quiet room. Bloody Baroness helped me get Lola to eat. I am sure she can help you!

Some have used tuna, chicken broth and even cooked hamburger juices.

Oh Lola is an adult female bp.
 
He is in a 30g long zilla tank. I soaked him in a warm bath every day for a month, per the vets recommendation. The substrate is carefresh. I don't know if he's an import; I adopted him from a reptile rescue last June. He had some retained eyecap and I used Visine Tears for a while and its now clear. I don't know how to assist feeding; I've never done it before.
 
he just recently started hanging out again. he spent months just buried in the carefresh. now I'm starting to see him bask under the lamp and chill on his half-log at night. but the weight loss has been sudden and rapid.
 
I would put him in a 6qt tub, with a hot spot of around 87F, on newspaper with a water bowl. He needs to feel secure. The #1 reason Balls go off feed is, that they don't feel secure. I would then offer a live rodent a week after he settles in.
 
I understand, but Ball Pythons often hold out for live. I would try it. I think you'll like the results.
 
In the morning I will cover the walls of his tank with some type of dark material and move him to a quieter space...... And call the vet again.
 
I highly recommend putting him in a tub. That's 100x more secure than a tank. Tubs hold humidity and heat much better. Also, as previously stated, a live rodent may very well do the trick. Only leave it a very few minutes, and don't leave it overnight! I usually check 15 minutes after I place the rodent in the tub. Most times, baby Balls are ontop of the rodents within 15 seconds.
 
Like I said I got Lola to eat after I blacked out her thank. She was going on 3 months without food. She was a live feeder when we got her. She ate f/t for 3 or 4 feedings then all the sudden stopped. She is in a 40g breeder tank. I offered her a live rat pup along with a prekilled small rat. She didn't go for either. It wasn't until I blacked out her tank that she ate. I would make sure she has a tight fitting hide as well.

If the blackout doesn't work then try the tub thing. If you dont feel like feeding live, try the prekilled scented gerbil or hamster bedding. If that doesn't work than I would try live but smaller, that why you aren't overwhelmed and he isn't either. Rat pups or slightly larger. Some really only eat live unfortunately. But I followed Bloody Baronesses advice to the T and it worked wonders. She has eaten twice for me now!
 
I have had success getting snakes to feed very well for me after starting them on live for a month or so then switching to F/T. Doesn't mean they'll always eat F/T, but it's a start.
 
I agree with putting him in something SMALLER and more secure (a small tub like David suggested works great). Environmental conditions can have a big impact on a ball python's willingness to eat, and security of their surroundings seems to be a biggie. Smaller enclosure may well do the trick. Put him in a smaller, more secure-feeling enclosure, leave him for a week or so to settle, and maybe give pre-killed one or two tries while he's in the tub.

Along with a more secure enclosure, you'll want to invest in more secure hides. Half logs don't generally fall in this category, since they are open on both ends. As a matter of fact, my snakes' favorite hides are almost always tight-fitting cardboard boxes with an entrance hole. You can also swap the water dish for one of those dog food dishes with a hollow underside and a finger-hole on one or both sides. They make a great, tight-fitting hide.

Also agreed with trying live. You said yourself, he's been off feed for MONTHS now, and he's losing weight--you need to get him eating. Yes, live SUCKS and is dangerous, but if it gets him to eat, it's better than the alternative. Even if you only do it once, to get something in him so you can get a fecal sample to have examined, that's better than just letting him wither away because you refuse to try live.

Even if it takes live to get him feeding again, keep in mind that you can always switch back to f/t later.

Sorry for the long post. I'm a bit wordy, I know. :p Anyway, that's my $.02. Good luck, I hope he eats soon!
 
Okay, this is going to be a bit long winded, but bear with me.

First, for a ball python that size, the cage is a bit big. Use some sort of dark paper and cover all the sides. Make it like a cave, the top too. The darker the better. Added more ground cover with cheap fake plants too.

Do you have an under the tank heater? Or is it a light only?

If you only have a light, try to get an under the tank heater. If you have both, turn the light off and cover the top of the tank with a dark towel or blanket. You might have to turn the heater up a degree or too, but we need to get the light out of there, for now anyway.

Next, please, please, please stop the baths. Those are stressful and certainly not helping. I know the vet said to do it, but please, I can't stress that enough, stop them. Ball pythons are very easily stressed by things like that. Of the 20+ ball pythons I own, I have only ever given 4 baths, ever. Trust me, that is not helping at all, and could very well be making the situation much worse.

Then, once the enclosure has been made into a much more cave like setting, wait one week and offer a super super super warm rodent. Offer it very late in the afternoon or early night, then leave it in there over night. No peeking, no checking, just make sure the enclosure is cave like again and walk away! No looking, touching, check, nothing. Set it and forget it.

If the rodent is not eaten, wait 4 days and offer a live rat pinky, or mouse fuzzy. Something small, without teeth yet, but that will wiggle. Sometimes you just need to spark that response with live once and they will start going again. Leave it for an hour and then check.

Your snake has already started losing weight and that is not good.

You also may have to start force feeding very soon.

I strongly urge you to follow my advice to the letter, and I will almost 100% guarantee it to work, if followed to the letter.
 
He has an under tank heater and light, but the light hasnt been working consistantly recently. The baths were because he had a terrible shed were only bits and pieces came off and his eye caps were there for like 5 months. He has two good hides and plant cover. I will move the tank into a quieter room and cover all the sides, or pick up a smaller tub at Target. When I feed him, its always a warm rodent that I leave overnight without touching or messing with. I'll go pick up a small live rodent in a few days. :/
 
-deep breath before the second long post-

If Sammy starts eating again, I will walk you through the steps on how to get him used to being in an uncovered tank. It's not hard, but we want him to eat 4 times before we start taking down the covered sides.

You want to be pretty hands off for a while. Let Sammy do his thing and don't check on him more than a quick look once or twice per day. No handling for a bit. Just keep his water fresh and make sure he is doing okay.

If Sammy does not take food, I can walk you through a very very easy process of force feeding. It's not as bad as you think.

Also, the reason I asked if he was an import or not, is that some imports have feeding issues for one reason or the other.

Right now the very best thing you can do is cover up the tank like a cave and sit back and wait a bit. Ball pythons can be very shy in some respects. Once Sammy starts eating again, you can work up to spending more time with him and handling him more.
 
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