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Ball Python Owners....

2i2_D3gr33s

I AM A:
I just seen about a dozen baby ball pythons, and they seemed to be much calmer than some of my corns. I was thinking that this may be a good option for my daughter (who's five) who loves snakes, but doesn't handle my corns too much, just because they're so quick, and if she'd ever drop one, it would be gone. So, I was just wondering if any owners of ball pythons could give me some tips on balls, or point me in the direction of a good forum or book that I should pick up before I buy one. Thanks guys.
 
We just got a baby ball two weeks ago. He does seem much more sedate than my corns. We haven't really handled him that much yet, but when I do hold him, he stays very still. Very different from my corns, who give me a good workout when I hold them. As for books, my son found an old BP book years ago in a thrift shop. It is what started him wanting one. I think it was just called Ball Pythons, and was written by John Corburn. It has good info, but I don't know how it compares to other BP books. As for sites, I don't know of any myself. We're looking for them as well.
 
I think the difference is that ball pythons are content to sit and relax as corns aren't. My baby girl, Aurora will crawl around and move when you handle her but she's not nearly as quick as the corns (although she could be if she wanted). She's also more content to just sit when she finds a comfortable position. If you do pick one up, make sure to pick up one that's well established and eating well since they are notoriously picky eaters. Also find out if it is being fed live or f/t.

~Katie
 
Ball Pythons are great as far as being calm goes... but they are soooo finicky. Don't be surprised if you can't get it to take f/t. Don't get me wrong, I like em and all. I have one, but they are a pain sometimes.
 
Yeah, they had said that all were being fed live already. I live about 3 minutes from a place where I can get live food, so that's not a problem. Are the dangers of feeding live the same as in corns, or do the balls have less of a problem with live food?
 
Feeding Pythons live is the same as any snake. There are dangers, but ways to get around it. Best thing to do is stun the prey. You've also got to consider that the prey items are much larger with adult ball pythons. That is when it is especially risky feeding live. Just stun the prey and supervise the feeding to make sure everything goes well. You should never leave your snake unattended with a live rodent.
 
Perhaps once it is settled in, you can switch it over to F/T. We got lucky. Our Monty was already feeding on f/t.
 
Ball Pythons are the best small "big" snake around.

The problem with feeding live is (IMHO) greater with these animals. An adult mouse (25g) can cause a painful bite. No doubt. Imagine what an adult rat (100-200g) can do. Ouch! I would definitely either (A) switch the animal over to frozen-thawed right away, or (B) buy an animal that is already an established frozen-thawed feeder. (And be prepared for the long fasting periods. Ball Pythons love to go off of feed for no good reason.)

The little one will appreciate the docile nature of the Ball Python.


Chris
 
what is the biggest prey item (on average) that an adult ball will take? My husband is thinking about getting one (but not until the reptile show hits Anaheim again).
 
I would think that large rats are the largest that you would want to feed a BP. We have an adult male that currently takes medium rats. He might move up in size after a while but they hold him well for now. Some of our females I can see getting bigger than him and taking large rats but nothing too much bigger.

~Katie
 
The large rats would be fine for a large Ball Python. (Although I try to offer smaller prey items -- small to medium rats.)


Chris
 
Wow.... thanks for all the replies guys. I will take your advise, and wait until I can find one already established on f/t. I believe it will be worth the wait, and there is a reptile show that hits once a month about 3 hours from my house, so I'm bound to find one sooner or later.
 
An established frozen-thawed feeder is the best thing.

However, it's really not that difficult to get a live feeder to make the switch. I've had SEVERAL ball pythons over the last few years and all but one was switched over to frozen-thawed in two weeks or less.

(The trick is tough love.)


Chris
 
CJBianco said:
(And be prepared for the long fasting periods. Ball Pythons love to go off of feed for no good reason.)
Chris

I feed my son's ball python on the same day as my California king snake. If the ball refuses, the king gets the mouse. Actually, today was the first time Monty refused, but he is going into a shed cycle, and I was expecting it.
 

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CJBianco said:
An established frozen-thawed feeder is the best thing.

However, it's really not that difficult to get a live feeder to make the switch. I've had SEVERAL ball pythons over the last few years and all but one was switched over to frozen-thawed in two weeks or less.

(The trick is tough love.)


Chris
You gotta share your secrets. I had three at one time and I could even get them to eat tease fed f/t. I have my one girl left, and she still won't eat f/t.
 
A friend of mine had a young male ball python that would never eat. (At least since he owned it.) I took one look at the situation and said that I could get it feeding again. The animal was given to me, and within five days this young male was pounding frozen-thawed rat pups like it was cool. (It had never been offered frozen-thawed before in its life.) And for the two months in my care, it never refused a meal.

The secret to feeding is two-fold.

First -- All feeding problems are 90% environmental. Listen to the animal. Everything the animal wants or needs in an environment is told to you in one way or another. And every animal is different. If you know how to listen to the animal, you will soon find out how to give it the perfect environment. (EXAMPLE: The animal refuses to use a hide box? That's okay. Some animals do not use hide boxes. Wrong! All animals use hide boxes. They just don't use THAT hide box.)

Second -- The number one cause of feeding is hunger. Offer smaller prey items at each meal. The smaller prey items digest faster, so the animal is hungry again at the next feeding session.

It's that simple.

(Let me know if you have any other questions.)


Chris
 
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