DIY Viv project w/ pictures

[jpccusa]

So I am making my own vivarium and here are some pictures of the beggining of the project, which is still in progress as of 08/14/2008.


An old Melamine bookshelf will be the enclosure.


Using some boards cut to size and metal plates to join them, I created the frame for the from door.


Since the back part of the bookshelf is made of 2 thin boards, I decided to use overlapped contact paper that imitates wood.


All cracks and joints will be covered with white caulk.

 

[Blue Apple Herps]

Cool project. I would seriously consider replacing the back of the bookcase with something more durable. Flimsy boards and contact paper are an escape waiting to happen. You could get some more melamine, or something even like hardboard would work.

Good luck with it!

 

[Drizzt80]

. . . I would also reconsider using clear silicone instead of white caulk. :shrugs:

The contact paper vs. UTH had already been addressed prior to the "server snafu".

D80

 

[jpccusa]

Cool project. I would seriously consider replacing the back of the bookcase with something more durable. Flimsy boards and contact paper are an escape waiting to happen. You could get some more melamine, or something even like hardboard would work.

Good luck with it!

Yesterday before the reboot happened, someone had replied saying the contact paper would stay tacky because of the heat and the snake could get stuck on it in case it lifts...

I never owned a snake and I'm not sure how strong and determined they are, so could you please elaborate how it would be able to escape? By the way, the back part will be against a wall (not sure if it changes anything...)

 

[jpccusa]

. . . I would also reconsider using clear silicone instead of white caulk. :shrugs:

The contact paper vs. UTH had already been addressed prior to the "server snafu".

D80

Is the white caulk toxic to snakes that's why the clear silicone? Or is it just asthaetics?

Also, do you agree with me or with the person that thinks the heat will make the contact paper stay tacky?

 

[Drizzt80]

Is the white caulk toxic to snakes that's why the clear silicone? Or is it just asthaetics?

I would personally use the clear silicone (or white silicone) because I'd trust it to be safe. I'm not sure if the caulk would be toxic or not, but I know from experience that the silicone will stand up to your usage.

Also, do you agree with me or with the person that thinks the heat will make the contact paper stay tacky?

I agree that the contact paper/UTH combination would be a bad idea.

One bit of knowledge I've gained over the years is that it is possible to create vivs and cages on the cheap, but at the same time, you can't go the cheapest. If there's a better fix that costs a bit more, you're much better off going that route.

I'd also recommend an inch or inch and a half "dam" put in along the front bottom edges. Keeps the bedding in.

D80

 

[Blue Apple Herps]

Yesterday before the reboot happened, someone had replied saying the contact paper would stay tacky because of the heat and the snake could get stuck on it in case it lifts...

I never owned a snake and I'm not sure how strong and determined they are, so could you please elaborate how it would be able to escape? By the way, the back part will be against a wall (not sure if it changes anything...)

If you wrapped the contact paper around the edges so that the seams of it weren't in the cage, you should be fine. Keep in mind that a UTH for a corn shouldn't be that hot anyways. I'm not so sure I'd worry about the heat keeping it tacky. If you wanted to test it, put some contact paper outside when its 85 or so and see what happens.

I would be worried about an escape because the back would be so flimsy with just the back you have now and contact paper. I personally would use something sturdier. It wouldn't be hard or expensive to do either. Just my suggestion.

As for silicone vs caulk, I can't think of why one might be superior over another. I've used both with success and never had any problems (of course make sure they're FULLY cured before putting any animal inside). Maybe someone else can chime in.

 

[jpccusa]

Good advices D80. Thanks for the input. I'll reconsider the back board as well (thanks blueapplepaste).

 

[Drizzt80]

As for silicone vs caulk, I can't think of why one might be superior over another. I've used both with success and never had any problems (of course make sure they're FULLY cured before putting any animal inside). Maybe someone else can chime in.

My comments stem from the experience of caulk getting old, crusty, and breaking up in chunks. I've never had that happen with silicone.

D80

 

[Blue Apple Herps]

My comments stem from the experience of caulk getting old, crusty, and breaking up in chunks. I've never had that happen with silicone.

D80

It does do that when it gets old. In my custom vivs, I replace it once or twice a year as it gets dirty and what not. So I've never had it long enough for that to happen, but you're right that it would. Never thought about it...

 

[diamondlil]

Yesterday before the reboot happened, someone had replied saying the contact paper would stay tacky because of the heat and the snake could get stuck on it in case it lifts...

Ah, that'd be me! My post disappeared.

 

[jpccusa]

It does do that when it gets old. In my custom vivs, I replace it once or twice a year as it gets dirty and what not. So I've never had it long enough for that to happen, but you're right that it would. Never thought about it...

So silicone wins due to less maintenance required. It's so much harder to work with it though...:awcrap:

 

[jpccusa]

Ah, that'd be me! My post disappeared.

Yes, it was you Janine... Thanks for your input. As you saw, I'm replacing the entire back with a studier board. I am also switching to silicone instead of caulk.

 

[Blue Apple Herps]

So silicone wins due to less maintenance required. It's so much harder to work with it though...:awcrap:

It is. Like I said, I used caulk just fine, but I did replace it every 4-6 months. Not because it was falling apart, but because urates would sometimes get caked in there and were impossible to get out. So more of a sanitary thing.

 

[jpccusa]

It is. Like I said, I used caulk just fine, but I did replace it every 4-6 months. Not because it was falling apart, but because urates would sometimes get caked in there and were impossible to get out. So more of a sanitary thing.

I wonder if D80 has the same problem with stuff getting caked on the silicone...

 

[Drizzt80]

I wonder if D80 has the same problem with stuff getting caked on the silicone...

Nope. Washes off neat and complete. I've got some aquariums that I've used for reptiles for well over 12 years, and there's no obvious signs of wear and tear to the silicone.

Something I just thought of. Double check that your shelving unit is actually melamine coated and not just "white paper" coated. I've seen both.

D80

 

[jpccusa]

Something I just thought of. Double check that your shelving unit is actually melamine coated and not just "white paper" coated. I've seen both.

D80

Yeah, I've inspected it closely before buying and it is melamine. Good tip for other future DIYers out there though.

 

[jpccusa]

Here is a pic of the melanine layer...



Well, I did not mention before, but I was already in a more advanced stage of the project, so here are some pictures of possible problems.


This is how the back looks like... You can see the contact paper overlaying in the middle where the 2 boards meet. This backing might be gone (Yeah, I am still struggling to let it go :sobstory


This is the before and after of the floor of the viv... I filled every single hole with caulk. :awcrap: D80, any suggestion on what to do here? I was thinking glueing a pond liner on the floor.


This is the latch used on the top part of the viv. 2 hinges will be attached on the bottom part, so the door will come down. Do you think snakes will be able to force the top corners of the door open, since the latch is located in the center? This is a 6 foot wide viv... :shrugs:

 

[sbourget]

At 6ft wide I would say another 2 latches would be a good idea, that way you would have one every 1.5 feet. I have 2 latches on my Boa's cage and that is only 4 feet wide and the door is built more sturdy then yours. Flexing the door on his cage, if one of my latches failed and I didn't have the door recessed I'm sure a snake would be able to force open a gap almost 3/4" wide. As it is, with my door recessed I'm unable to open any sort of gap.

 

[Drizzt80]

Yeah, I've inspected it closely before buying and it is melamine. Good tip for other future DIYers out there though.

Good.

This is the before and after of the floor of the viv... I filled every single hole with caulk. :awcrap: D80, any suggestion on what to do here? I was thinking glueing a pond liner on the floor.

Boy that's a tough call. I can think of a few ideas off the top of my head. Some easier than others. Pond liner may work, but I think that would be a relatively expensive option for the application. A piece of linoleum may be a better/less expensive solution. Try a needle nose pliers and see if you can pull the caulk out of the holes. You could drill out the caulk (I know :crazy01: ) and then refill with silicone.

D80

PS. Don't forget the 1" to 1 1/2 " dam along the front bottom edge. Trust me, you'll be glad you put it in!