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egg help
- Thread starter theuser6
- Start date
The eggs will dry out and die if you leave them in the cage. If you want them to hatch (and if they are fertile) you need to put them in a container with damp substrate. A tupperware container works well. As far as substrate, many people use perlite or vermiculite, which are available at Garden Centers. Eggs maintained this way at a steady temperature in the low 80s, generally hatch in two months.
There is quite a bit of information availble on the internet and in books about incubating eggs.
www.thirdeyeherp.com
Tim
There is quite a bit of information availble on the internet and in books about incubating eggs.
www.thirdeyeherp.com
Tim
bitsy
Owned by Corns since 1991
I wouldn't recommend incubating the eggs - hatching them is only the first step in a long process and it sounds very much like you're not really prepared for the trauma of trying to get non-feeding hatchlings to eat, and then rehoming the ones that do. Besides, buying the setups you'd need for housing hatchlings can be a costly enterprise, which you're not likely to get back by selling them.
My recommendations at the moment are:
- Separate the adults as soon as possible, by putting the male in a new setup and leaving the female where she is. A male and female will inevitably mate, whether you want them to or not. No special conditions are necessary.
- Put a laying box in with the female and leave her in peace. If she's disturbed any more, she may become eggbound. A laying box is just a plastic tub with some damp medium in it - sphagnum moss or vermiculite are ideal, but damp paper towel will do in an emergency. Put it in the area between the cool and hot ends of the tank and the female should find it for herself.
- Don't take any more eggs out until you're sure that the female has finished laying. Again, disturbing her could cause eggbinding.
- Put any eggs in the freezer for 24 hours then throw them away.
- Buy a really good book on Corns (like Kathy and Bill Love's), do loads of research on breeding on the web, and get yourself properly set up to breed next year, if that's what you'd like to do.
- Make sure you take very good care of the female once she's finished laying. Offer her a small meal (smaller than the mice she usually has) the day after she finishes laying. You'll then need to feed her more often with her normal sized food, until she had regained her pre-laying weight/size.
How old and big is the female? If she's under three years old or was under 300g in weight, then there may be complications that you need to look out for.
My recommendations at the moment are:
- Separate the adults as soon as possible, by putting the male in a new setup and leaving the female where she is. A male and female will inevitably mate, whether you want them to or not. No special conditions are necessary.
- Put a laying box in with the female and leave her in peace. If she's disturbed any more, she may become eggbound. A laying box is just a plastic tub with some damp medium in it - sphagnum moss or vermiculite are ideal, but damp paper towel will do in an emergency. Put it in the area between the cool and hot ends of the tank and the female should find it for herself.
- Don't take any more eggs out until you're sure that the female has finished laying. Again, disturbing her could cause eggbinding.
- Put any eggs in the freezer for 24 hours then throw them away.
- Buy a really good book on Corns (like Kathy and Bill Love's), do loads of research on breeding on the web, and get yourself properly set up to breed next year, if that's what you'd like to do.
- Make sure you take very good care of the female once she's finished laying. Offer her a small meal (smaller than the mice she usually has) the day after she finishes laying. You'll then need to feed her more often with her normal sized food, until she had regained her pre-laying weight/size.
How old and big is the female? If she's under three years old or was under 300g in weight, then there may be complications that you need to look out for.