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Enclosure blues *sigh*

D

Darknesslurks

New member
I hoope to be getting my corn pretty soon and have lately had blues about getting one. All becasue i have never seen the way many peopel setup there enclosures. I know the basic needs for them whihc is tell me if i am wrong :sobstory:
-20 gallon long or 30 based on preference
-aspen bedding but heard bad things about it so most likely wood chip things not sure of the name
- two hides on each side but i think im going to use three
- water dish to completely soak them slef
-uth
-branches and fake plants
-caves same thing as hides
-lock for the tank

plus if you guys can post pics of ur enclosures that would be heaven for me, because i dont know if i want a 20 gallon long, custom built cage with sliding glass 3 ft by 2 ft, or exo terra cage 2ft by 18 in by 2 ft. im so confused please help me. I really want one and this is my biggest problem also pick the right morph for me. Also PIcs Would be great again. :wavey:
 
OK...aspen shavings are the preferred substrate. I've never heard a bad thing about them, and as far as I know, is what *most* people on this forum use and recommend.

The key factors for your enclosure should be thermoregulation, security, and escape-proof-ness(is that a real word?)

A 20 gallon long is the MINIMUM requirement for an adult corn snake. I doubt you will ever hear your snake complain for giving them more room.

One side of the tank should be warm, the other cool. Warm side around 80-85*F, cool side 75-80*F or thereabouts. Humidity right around 50% unless shedding, than higher for a better/easier shed.

One hide on the warm side, one hide on the cool side at a minimum. This allows your snake to be secure in their environment without needing to choose security over thermoregulation.

Water dish is a must. Fresh water daily, as your snake can and will drink from the dish regularly.

Any other decorations you use are matters of choice and entertainment. I am currently at work. When I get home tonight, I wil take pictures of my enclosure's current setup and post them. I have a habit of changing things around quite a bit, though. Corn snakes are primarily ground dwelling animals, but wil climb if they have the opportunity. Providing artificial foliage so they can wander about the enclosure without being completely exposed doesn't hurt either.

Please be sure to check the link in my signature to answer ALL of your basic care questions.
 
Really You can use aspen bedding, i was yelled at on the bearded dragon forum in the snake section for saying that i was planning on using that. They said that only the ignorant selfcentered people who dont give a rats botty uses that. I was in shocked when they told me because thats what i see in other cages
 
Yup, aspen is fine. I don't know the person who told you that, but I can tell you that some of the most reputable breeders in the US are on this forum, and have used/currently use aspen. The only issue with aspen is that you can't feed them on it. If substrate is accidentally ingested, it can cause an impaction. So for feeding, you probably want to buy a smaller feeding tub. Lots of people use Critter Keepers (from petstores) or use plastic shoeboxes with air holes. Sounds like you did your research - good for you. :)
 
Darknesslurks said:
Really You can use aspen bedding, i was yelled at on the bearded dragon forum in the snake section for saying that i was planning on using that. They said that only the ignorant selfcentered people who dont give a rats botty uses that. I was in shocked when they told me because thats what i see in other cages
Click to expand...

Every book, caresheet, and factoid I've read regarding the care of cornsnakes recommends aspen shavings as the preferred "natural" substrate. You can also use coconut bark, eco-earth stuff(not sure of the actual name), or astroturf. Pine is a respiratory irritant, cedar is toxic and fir is suspected of being toxic, though I don't know about that for sure. A few people have had snakes that have had bad reactions to fir-based bark substrate.
 
Jrgh17 said:
Yup, aspen is fine. I don't know the person who told you that, but I can tell you that some of the most reputable breeders in the US are on this forum, and have used/currently use aspen. The only issue with aspen is that you can't feed them on it. If substrate is accidentally ingested, it can cause an impaction. So for feeding, you probably want to buy a smaller feeding tub. Lots of people use Critter Keepers (from petstores) or use plastic shoeboxes with air holes. Sounds like you did your research - good for you. :)
Click to expand...

Oh yes i did do some research i have been waiting for this day for almost a year. The only reason i becaome a bearded dragon breeder was becasue my mother wouldnt allow snakes in her house. Im so excited
 
Darknesslurks said:
I hoope to be getting my corn pretty soon and have lately had blues about getting one. All becasue i have never seen the way many peopel setup there enclosures. I know the basic needs for them whihc is tell me if i am wrong :sobstory:
-20 gallon long or 30 based on preference
-aspen bedding but heard bad things about it so most likely wood chip things not sure of the name
- two hides on each side but i think im going to use three
- water dish to completely soak them slef
-uth
-branches and fake plants
-caves same thing as hides
-lock for the tank

plus if you guys can post pics of ur enclosures that would be heaven for me, because i dont know if i want a 20 gallon long, custom built cage with sliding glass 3 ft by 2 ft, or exo terra cage 2ft by 18 in by 2 ft. im so confused please help me. I really want one and this is my biggest problem also pick the right morph for me. Also PIcs Would be great again. :wavey:
Click to expand...
Im curious to know what bad things you have heard about aspen. The only thing I can think of is that it's bad to feed on. (Wood Chips are just as bad)

For a hatchling, Personally, I would recommend a 10 gallon, and then as he grows just move up to a 20 gallon. I say this because what I have noticed is in large enclosures hatchlings seem to stress really easy. That is unless you can provide 4 hides at least for the snake in a 20 gallon.

Two hides on each side, basically you are doing that so you have a hide on the cool side, and a hide on the warm side. That way the snake can pick and choose the temperature gradient that he/she will most prefer.

You have the water dish part right, a dish big enough for the snake to completely submerge itself. They will do this time to time when they are going into ecdysis, which means shedding cycle.

With the under tank heater, make sure you have it hooked up to a rheostat, or thermostat of some kind. Some heaters can get up to 133 degrees, and you would have a cooked snake before you could correct the problem (most likely) A cheap rheostat will do just fine.

Branches and fake plants are optional; they will help make the vivarium look more natural. They also provide a good hide during the night for the snake.

Lock for the tank is not necessary but what is required is to get an escape free tank. I would suggest getting a tank with a sliding screen top, that way you know that it’s surely locked in place.

About picking a morph, there is no difference in the type of snake. They are all corn snakes and morph would just be a personal preference regarding your budget. Normal's are typically really cheap, and are beautiful throughout all stages of there life. Not too far off the wallet are amels, or amelanistic (albinos) and they are also very beautiful. If you want to get into the higher morphs, I would suggest Lavender, or an Opal. Both progress relatively well and look great during all stages.

I do commend you for doing research before getting your snake, it is truly a great benefit to you and your corn.

Here are some threads regarding cage setups. Most threads are old, but should still have some pictures to give you some good ideas. They helped me when I first started with tanks.

http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41264
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22746
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34464
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24691
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22030

Good Luck,

Ryan McCullough
MC Reptiles
 
tyflier said:
Every book, caresheet, and factoid I've read regarding the care of cornsnakes recommends aspen shavings as the preferred "natural" substrate. You can also use coconut bark, eco-earth stuff(not sure of the actual name), or astroturf. Pine is a respiratory irritant, cedar is toxic and fir is suspected of being toxic, though I don't know about that for sure. A few people have had snakes that have had bad reactions to fir-based bark substrate.
Click to expand...

thanks alot for clearing that up, well now that man owes me an apology...lol...for his rudeness luckly i have some bedding so that knocks it off of my to buy list
 
Fenderplayer108 said:
Im curious to know what bad things you have heard about aspen. The only thing I can think of is that it's bad to feed on. (Wood Chips are just as bad)

For a hatchling, Personally, I would recommend a 10 gallon, and then as he grows just move up to a 20 gallon. I say this because what I have noticed is in large enclosures hatchlings seem to stress really easy. That is unless you can provide 4 hides at least for the snake in a 20 gallon.

Two hides on each side, basically you are doing that so you have a hide on the cool side, and a hide on the warm side. That way the snake can pick and choose the temperature gradient that he/she will most prefer.

You have the water dish part right, a dish big enough for the snake to completely submerge itself. They will do this time to time when they are going into ecdysis, which means shedding cycle.

With the under tank heater, make sure you have it hooked up to a rheostat, or thermostat of some kind. Some heaters can get up to 133 degrees, and you would have a cooked snake before you could correct the problem (most likely) A cheap rheostat will do just fine.

Branches and fake plants are optional; they will help make the vivarium look more natural. They also provide a good hide during the night for the snake.

Lock for the tank is not necessary but what is required is to get an escape free tank. I would suggest getting a tank with a sliding screen top, that way you know that it’s surely locked in place.

About picking a morph, there is no difference in the type of snake. They are all corn snakes and morph would just be a personal preference regarding your budget. Normal's are typically really cheap, and are beautiful throughout all stages of there life. Not too far off the wallet are amels, or amelanistic (albinos) and they are also very beautiful. If you want to get into the higher morphs, I would suggest Lavender, or an Opal. Both progress relatively well and look great during all stages.

I do commend you for doing research before getting your snake, it is truly a great benefit to you and your corn.

Here are some threads regarding cage setups. Most threads are old, but should still have some pictures to give you some good ideas. They helped me when I first started with tanks.

http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41264
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22746
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34464
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24691
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22030

Good Luck,

Ryan McCullough
MC Reptiles
Click to expand...

Thanks Ryan and im pretty sure i need a lock because i have little sisters and i dont want to lose one within the first week. Becasue they have figured out how to open the cages i already have for my dragons
 
Darknesslurks said:
ok just in the last 20 min i have learned tons of new stuff that i was not completely sure about. I think im ready but one question still looms about a 20 gallon or a exoterra tank. I know that the exoterra tank would be a better security cage. Also how does this deal sound right here 189 for all this stuff


http://www.petsolutions.com/articles/12517563.html
Click to expand...

Honestly, I think there's some stuff in there that you really don't need, and some stuff that's not included. For instance, you'll really want to have a thermometer with a probe, preferably digital. I got my entire setup for less than $100 by just hunting for the best deals.
 
if you don't mind an 'ugly' growout tank, sterilite tubs are great (as long as you can make sure the top is VERY SECURE) because they're cheap, easy to acquire, and they hold heat very well. Not much to look at, but you'll save a lot of money!
 
Oh no thats not my list. It was a package deal for milks and king i was wonndering if it would be anygood to use for a corn. So i wont be using the sand but i do doubt that i will get that one now. Its probably cheaping geting exactly what i need
 
Amised, here is a picture of the way I have my enclosure set up currently. The left side is the warm side. The "vase" is actually an aquarium decoration for fish, but my snake seems to enjoy it, and it adds alot of hiding and burrowing options, aside from the hide I have on each side of the tank.
 

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Jrgh17 said:
Honestly, I think there's some stuff in there that you really don't need, and some stuff that's not included. For instance, you'll really want to have a thermometer with a probe, preferably digital. I got my entire setup for less than $100 by just hunting for the best deals.
Click to expand...

I agree. I wouldn't recommend that package deal for kings or milks either. There's a lot in that setup that you don't need, such as the basking bulb, sand, and the thermometer. You would need a digital thermometer with a probe to get accurate temps. I don't know what the 30" cabello is, but I'm sure I don't have it in my tank, so it's not necessary.

As for the cage, you will want something with more floor space since corns are terrestrial. I use old aquariums with screen tops, but since you have sisters, I'd recommend a Critter Cage, by All-Glass Aquarium. The have a sliding screen top with a place for a lock.
 
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